Engine Problems

ahhh. ok. now what about the piston moving side to side on the rod and bearing? is tha normal?

Perfectly normal operation. The rotating assembly is kept from moving side to side by the thrust washers on the big end of the rod. The piston is kept "inline" by the bore spacing on the sides of the piston. Once you remove the cylinder, the piston can move side to side more than 3/8" and that's perfectly normal.
 
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Perfectly normal operation. The rotating assembly is kept from moving side to side by the thrust washers on the big end of the rod. The piston is kept "inline" by the bore spacing on the sides of the piston. Once you remove the cylinder, the piston can move side to side more than 3/8" and that's perfectly normal.

alright kool. ima see if i can check the sizing. if all turns out well, when what do i do? new rings?
 
Explain a little better what you mean here, please. Are you saying the piston can move that much on the rod or that the rod can move that much on the crank or both together can be that much?

Once you remove the cylinder, the piston can move side to side more than 3/8" and that's perfectly normal.
 
Explain a little better what you mean here, please. Are you saying the piston can move that much on the rod or that the rod can move that much on the crank or both together can be that much?

The piston can move that much on the wrist pin (the small end of the rod). The rod is kept from wiggling too much by the big end bearing and the piston it kept in line by the cylinder. The two are not a tight fit by any means.
 
I remember reading in my manual when I did my top end that there should be NO noticable side play from the piston pin when installed in the needle bearing/connecting rod. The connecting rod small end play should be no more then 1 mm, and no more then .7 mm for the big end clearance ( and wayy less for the radial clearance ).
 
I remember reading in my manual when I did my top end that there should be NO noticable side play from the piston pin when installed in the needle bearing/connecting rod. The connecting rod small end play should be no more then 1 mm, and no more then .7 mm for the big end clearance ( and wayy less for the radial clearance ).

There are specs in the manual for big end side to side, "twist" (which is probably what you're thinking of) and up and down motion.

The "twist" is a spec to make sure that the barrels aren't actually cigar shaped... the wrist pin has NO thrust control at all and the piston can slide side to side a LOT.
 
89blaster89

You would need a 68mm piston, it technically would be very slightly smaller, but its classed as a 68mm and it fits witht the rings anf such perfect into a good 68mm bore, Civic taught me! I:I
 
The piston can move that much on the wrist pin (the small end of the rod). The rod is kept from wiggling too much by the big end bearing and the piston it kept in line by the cylinder. The two are not a tight fit by any means.

the rod can move on the crank a tiny bit side to side. but not up and down

the piston and move side to side a lot on the rod. watch the vid



ok so i put the piston back in the cylinder without the rings, not all the way. just a little, and it has a lot of play in it. the piston can move in all dirctions and has a pretty big gap between the 2. more then what i think should be there. so i think your rite on the piston being too small. here the vid. im asking around to see if i can find a claiper to measure exactly, but cant find anything yet. also i did notice that the rings are not even ly worn. they are fat on one side, and very thin on the other side. u can see what i mean better in the vid.

View My Video
View My Video
 
Gotcha, I do recall when I got top and bottom ends from wiseco I put my piston onto the connecting rod/crank just messin around before I installed them and I was very surprised at the level of play when wiggling the piston around. I was just throwing some other numbers out there so quadrider could check as much, and as many specs as possible so he can hopefully figure out if theres a serious problem or not.
 
Thats the stock piston, and if he did have it rebored .30 over... theirs the slap, which would be giving unevenly worn rings.. problem solved ..
 
I'm not sure, but I would think it is a bit much, which would of gave the rings movement which would explain why its unevenly worn, so, measure, hone and piston kit and you should be good to go..