Different Brakes That Fit The 02 Blaster?

[bannedblaster]

I liked the Old Blasterzone Rear Kit they sold some years back ! .

 

[reggiexp]

here's my R&D, after about 170 sets of my brakes....


yes a closer pivot point (closer to the master) will give you more pedal travel, much like the factory set-ups.
but what difference does that make ?
my system only has maybe 1/2" of pedal travel, but can lock up the brakes with one finger pressure, and stop you from WOT,
yes...with one finger !

the trick is to relearn, that any of these hydro systems are not the old cable brakes, that took you standing on the pedal, pushing it down 4" to try and stop.
not sure about the yfz/banshee calipers, but on my systems...very very light pressure will slow you down, firm pressure, and that short 1/2" of travel will lock them up everytime.
why push a few inches when a 1/2" will do the same job ??
the key is getting yourself acustomed to the new lesser pressure and pedal travel than the old crap cable brakes required.


and here comes the pudding............


the master/rod attachment to the pedal must be perfectly aligned,
not pushing in on even the slightest angle what-so-ever.
it must push perfectly straight into the master, front to back, and side to side, or it's gonna bind and cause harder pedal feel, and possibly not work at all.


i see an "angle job" above...........

that connection point needed to be about a 1/2" back further, with a longer pedal extension.


this is not a bust on anyone, just my experience for anyone else trying this,
a major key to these swaps working correctly is getting this alignment correct.

i like to make my extensions extra long, mount the pedal first, and build off of that, bolting your weld on mounts to the master, getting it aligned straight, then weld it to the frame in that position. then drill the pivot hole in the pedal extension for perfect alignment.
or in my case, aligning the master to the pedal straight, then mark and drill the holes for bolting it to the bolt on bracket i use,
then cut off the extra pedal extension.

below is a weld on bracket I did for big wills drag bike, as he had already cut off the lower mounting point for my bolt on bracket.
the bracket was bolted to the master, held in place, then the clevis hole drilled in the extra long pedal extension in the exact location needed for perfect alignment.......

IMO...this perfect alignment and the pedal extension pushing it straight into the master is much more critical to proper operation than the length of the extension, closer pivot point, or pedal travel.
1/2" of pedal travel gets the same exact results as 2" of pedal travel, with less effort.

as for rear calipers, i'm sure alot of different ones will work,
i chose what i did for ease of solid mounting,
(the disc floats) and dual pistons which promote even pad wear.


just my .02 cents after building close to 200 sets of these brakes

your results may vary.

what the difference if you mount a caliper solid and have the disk float or have both float? cause i cant find any solid mount caliper on the internet.. or even when u remove the floating part of a caliper i cant solid mount it anyway... i got 2 blaster one had full disk conversion other all stock
and yeah cable one is horrible it locks up fine then u ride 5min and aall rears are gone... like a bit of heat and they dont work..
but the other with the rear hydro i cant get it to lock up the brakes.. its i think a yamaha warrrior or somethign rear caliper but yeah it float mount on float disk it tried solid mount but that = one bold that kept going lose... (i welded a extention on the stock pedal with different positions and they all suck i have like less then 1cm brake pressure. but wont lock)
i tried different master cylinderr.. tried forcing the liquide into the caliper.. cant get it right..
anyway so i wanna put some hydro rear on the other blaster but i want it to work (not spend money i have caliper, master cylinder, brake wires)