I have an 02 blaster and the rear brake caliper is trashed. I've been looking for the calipers and have found some but I was wondering if any other calipers from other models would mount directly to the ATV. I know that the cable brakes are absolute crap but I don't have the money to upgrade to hydros at the moment. If anyone knows of any brakes that mount strait up let me know. I wouldn't mind modding a bracket but obviously if I need to I will. I just want better brakes than the stock Blaster brakes. Thanks
Different Brakes That Fit The 02 Blaster?
- Thread starter Southjac
- Start date
Why spend money on a "new" P O S brake system? And time making a bracket. Here is what I used 1999 Yamaha Warrior 350 Rear Brake System Brakes Caliper Master Cylinder | eBay except for pedal.
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Can't do pics :-[ sorry. Caliper bracket was piece of plate I cut to fit. Have to fashion some spacers for bracket to swinger, I welded 3 nuts together.Major fubar on my part was where/how I mounted master 
, I ended up with too long of an extension to brake pedal, I don't get enough "push" on the cyl. Try to find pics of how Warrior, Banshee, 03+ Blaster master cyl is mounted. Just need couple brackets welded to frame, and some kind of extension welded to brake pedal. Can cut cable mount off pedal. The resivior hose should be long enough to mount the resi up by the air box, rt front corner. No worries about roter hub as long as it will move, as the caliper is floating also.
Reason I can't do pics as I'm comp stupid and blasty is 150 mles away at the cabin (in pieces)
, I ended up with too long of an extension to brake pedal, I don't get enough "push" on the cyl. Try to find pics of how Warrior, Banshee, 03+ Blaster master cyl is mounted. Just need couple brackets welded to frame, and some kind of extension welded to brake pedal. Can cut cable mount off pedal. The resivior hose should be long enough to mount the resi up by the air box, rt front corner. No worries about roter hub as long as it will move, as the caliper is floating also.Reason I can't do pics as I'm comp stupid and blasty is 150 mles away at the cabin (in pieces
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Ok so it really isnt that hard to do? im just trying to get different ideas because I dont have the money to buy awks brake kit and I want brakes bad! thanks for the info Larry!
if you can buy the mastercylinder and line for the rear off of a yfz and get the front caliper off of a yfz because the rear caliper is single piston and front is dual piston
thats a good idea mud runner. I was looking on ebay and i found a lot of warrior master cylinders and lines but no complete setups. ill look for the yfz setup like you said. I assume that everything will fit together with no problems? thanks!
Larry, I have the Warrior set up too, with a 1/4" steel plate bracket for the early floating disk:
Sorry for the mud and weeds, but IT'S THE WAY WE ROLL!
Here is the master cylinder:
Steve
Sorry for the mud and weeds, but IT'S THE WAY WE ROLL!
Here is the master cylinder:
Steve
And there you have it !!
As I mentioned I have to re-do mine X( I put it on main frame tube (out of the way?) but pedal extention was WAY to long and have to push to hard on pedal :-[
As I mentioned I have to re-do mine X( I put it on main frame tube (out of the way?) but pedal extention was WAY to long and have to push to hard on pedal :-[
Yeah, leverage is an issue even on mine. Takes a fair pressure to lock it up.
I have to put a plug in for AWK's set up. It is a lot less money in the long run to buy something that has been thought out and tested.
Mine works good. If I was to change anything it would be to put the brake pedal pvot closer to the master cylinder or move the M/C closer to the pedal pivot.
Steve
here's my R&D, after about 170 sets of my brakes....
yes a closer pivot point (closer to the master) will give you more pedal travel, much like the factory set-ups.
but what difference does that make ?
my system only has maybe 1/2" of pedal travel, but can lock up the brakes with one finger pressure, and stop you from WOT,
yes...with one finger !
the trick is to relearn, that any of these hydro systems are not the old cable brakes, that took you standing on the pedal, pushing it down 4" to try and stop.
not sure about the yfz/banshee calipers, but on my systems...very very light pressure will slow you down, firm pressure, and that short 1/2" of travel will lock them up everytime.
why push a few inches when a 1/2" will do the same job ??
the key is getting yourself acustomed to the new lesser pressure and pedal travel than the old crap cable brakes required.
and here comes the pudding............
the master/rod attachment to the pedal must be perfectly aligned,
not pushing in on even the slightest angle what-so-ever.
it must push perfectly straight into the master, front to back, and side to side, or it's gonna bind and cause harder pedal feel, and possibly not work at all.
i see an "angle job" above...........
that connection point needed to be about a 1/2" back further, with a longer pedal extension.
this is not a bust on anyone, just my experience for anyone else trying this,
a major key to these swaps working correctly is getting this alignment correct.
i like to make my extensions extra long, mount the pedal first, and build off of that, bolting your weld on mounts to the master, getting it aligned straight, then weld it to the frame in that position. then drill the pivot hole in the pedal extension for perfect alignment.
or in my case, aligning the master to the pedal straight, then mark and drill the holes for bolting it to the bolt on bracket i use,
then cut off the extra pedal extension.
below is a weld on bracket I did for big wills drag bike, as he had already cut off the lower mounting point for my bolt on bracket.
the bracket was bolted to the master, held in place, then the clevis hole drilled in the extra long pedal extension in the exact location needed for perfect alignment.......
IMO...this perfect alignment and the pedal extension pushing it straight into the master is much more critical to proper operation than the length of the extension, closer pivot point, or pedal travel.
1/2" of pedal travel gets the same exact results as 2" of pedal travel, with less effort.
as for rear calipers, i'm sure alot of different ones will work,
i chose what i did for ease of solid mounting,
(the disc floats) and dual pistons which promote even pad wear.
just my .02 cents after building close to 200 sets of these brakes
your results may vary.
yes a closer pivot point (closer to the master) will give you more pedal travel, much like the factory set-ups.
but what difference does that make ?
my system only has maybe 1/2" of pedal travel, but can lock up the brakes with one finger pressure, and stop you from WOT,
yes...with one finger !
the trick is to relearn, that any of these hydro systems are not the old cable brakes, that took you standing on the pedal, pushing it down 4" to try and stop.
not sure about the yfz/banshee calipers, but on my systems...very very light pressure will slow you down, firm pressure, and that short 1/2" of travel will lock them up everytime.
why push a few inches when a 1/2" will do the same job ??
the key is getting yourself acustomed to the new lesser pressure and pedal travel than the old crap cable brakes required.
and here comes the pudding............
the master/rod attachment to the pedal must be perfectly aligned,
not pushing in on even the slightest angle what-so-ever.
it must push perfectly straight into the master, front to back, and side to side, or it's gonna bind and cause harder pedal feel, and possibly not work at all.
i see an "angle job" above...........
that connection point needed to be about a 1/2" back further, with a longer pedal extension.
this is not a bust on anyone, just my experience for anyone else trying this,
a major key to these swaps working correctly is getting this alignment correct.
i like to make my extensions extra long, mount the pedal first, and build off of that, bolting your weld on mounts to the master, getting it aligned straight, then weld it to the frame in that position. then drill the pivot hole in the pedal extension for perfect alignment.
or in my case, aligning the master to the pedal straight, then mark and drill the holes for bolting it to the bolt on bracket i use,
then cut off the extra pedal extension.
below is a weld on bracket I did for big wills drag bike, as he had already cut off the lower mounting point for my bolt on bracket.
the bracket was bolted to the master, held in place, then the clevis hole drilled in the extra long pedal extension in the exact location needed for perfect alignment.......
IMO...this perfect alignment and the pedal extension pushing it straight into the master is much more critical to proper operation than the length of the extension, closer pivot point, or pedal travel.
1/2" of pedal travel gets the same exact results as 2" of pedal travel, with less effort.
as for rear calipers, i'm sure alot of different ones will work,
i chose what i did for ease of solid mounting,
(the disc floats) and dual pistons which promote even pad wear.
just my .02 cents after building close to 200 sets of these brakes
your results may vary.
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Very good point Joe, the alignment, angles and leverages are very important.
Gives you a great respect for the factory engineers when you try to do it yourself.
In my defence, the rear master cylinder is better than it appears.
Parallax from that angle makes it look worse than it is.
Have a look at this:
Same picture with red line added.
Red line is in line with the shaft, the M/C, and your orange line.
You know what you are talking about, I am not arguing that!
Steve
Gives you a great respect for the factory engineers when you try to do it yourself.
In my defence, the rear master cylinder is better than it appears.
Parallax from that angle makes it look worse than it is.
Have a look at this:
Same picture with red line added.
Red line is in line with the shaft, the M/C, and your orange line.
You know what you are talking about, I am not arguing that!
Steve
my first inclination that it is out of alignment is the rubber boot buckled as it is.
pull the clevis pin and watch how far back it springs on it's own, (without binding on the extension)
with pics
try a slightly longer extension on that pedal, easy 1/2 hour job, and i bet they work better and easier.
at least thats been my experiences.
pull the clevis pin and watch how far back it springs on it's own, (without binding on the extension)
with pics
try a slightly longer extension on that pedal, easy 1/2 hour job, and i bet they work better and easier.
at least thats been my experiences.
i have awk's rear brake setup. i realize the different feel in pedal pressure compared to a factory hydro brake but i also know there is a world of difference compared to a factory cable brake, too. by that i mean, i would choose awk's system any day over cable brakes on older blasters.
Sorry to bust in but I need to contact Awk08 and am a new member and cant pm for some reason. Anyway, Awk08 I would like to find out how much for your rear brake kit for a 1996 blaster.
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