I brought mine off eBay USA and had it shipped to KOR in USA who machined it and then sent it to me in New Zealand. Easier then me shipping my one to him and saved shipping cost and time.
Cylinder port polish
- Thread starter Tommyz125
- Start date
Thats what i have done to, i have instaled it , nice power increase! New Zealand damn thats farrrrr from Nevada hahaha
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The burn on the squish area suggests the gap is too large.
You might need to tighten up your squish band a bit.
Measure it with 0.060" lead solder through the sparkplug hole like this:
You want to push the solder out to the edge of the cylinder and turn the flywheel over by hand.
Or you can take the head off and do it more accurately like this:
Measure the squished solder to get the gap:
Should be minimum 0.020" to maximum 0.050"
Ideally 0.030" to 0.040"
You can use thinner gaskets (cut basegaskets out of paper, headgaskets out of aluminum)
or skim the head or cylinder to tighten it up.
You might need to tighten up your squish band a bit.
Measure it with 0.060" lead solder through the sparkplug hole like this:
You want to push the solder out to the edge of the cylinder and turn the flywheel over by hand.
Or you can take the head off and do it more accurately like this:
Measure the squished solder to get the gap:
Should be minimum 0.020" to maximum 0.050"
Ideally 0.030" to 0.040"
You can use thinner gaskets (cut basegaskets out of paper, headgaskets out of aluminum)
or skim the head or cylinder to tighten it up.
Glad I saw this !!
I have noticed that Blasters seem to run a slightly tighter squish than Banshees.
Anyone have a idea why?
I know the pistons have different dome profiles, and obviosly spin at slightly less rpm.
I have noticed that Blasters seem to run a slightly tighter squish than Banshees.
Anyone have a idea why?
I know the pistons have different dome profiles, and obviosly spin at slightly less rpm.
Piston crown are not flush to cylinder deck, is a paper base gasket reliable? Head gasket made of foil paper?The burn on the squish area suggests the gap is too large.
You might need to tighten up your squish band a bit.
Measure it with 0.060" lead solder through the sparkplug hole like this:
You want to push the solder out to the edge of the cylinder and turn the flywheel over by hand.
Or you can take the head off and do it more accurately like this:
Measure the squished solder to get the gap:
Should be minimum 0.020" to maximum 0.050"
Ideally 0.030" to 0.040"
You can use thinner gaskets (cut basegaskets out of paper, headgaskets out of aluminum)
or skim the head or cylinder to tighten it up.
Stock head gaset is .035 thick so if the piston is flush to deck is should be ok, if i cant make it the combinaison of thin base and head gasketis good (best is to skim cylinder ...)The burn on the squish area suggests the gap is too large.
You might need to tighten up your squish band a bit.
Measure it with 0.060" lead solder through the sparkplug hole like this:
You want to push the solder out to the edge of the cylinder and turn the flywheel over by hand.
Or you can take the head off and do it more accurately like this:
Measure the squished solder to get the gap:
Should be minimum 0.020" to maximum 0.050"
Ideally 0.030" to 0.040"
You can use thinner gaskets (cut basegaskets out of paper, headgaskets out of aluminum)
or skim the head or cylinder to tighten it up.
Super f*ckin thin, hope it will pass leek down test, and really hi tempThe burn on the squish area suggests the gap is too large.
You might need to tighten up your squish band a bit.
Measure it with 0.060" lead solder through the sparkplug hole like this:
You want to push the solder out to the edge of the cylinder and turn the flywheel over by hand.
Or you can take the head off and do it more accurately like this:
Measure the squished solder to get the gap:
Should be minimum 0.020" to maximum 0.050"
Ideally 0.030" to 0.040"
You can use thinner gaskets (cut basegaskets out of paper, headgaskets out of aluminum)
or skim the head or cylinder to tighten it up.
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I've never tried a foil headgasket, but I have used aluminum soda cans and teflon tape on other 2 stroke air cooled engines. Twist the teflon tape into a string and hold it in place with a dab of grease. Works well, about 0.003"-0.006" thick.
Paper and cardboard and even just sealer work well for basegaskets if everything is flat.
Most builders like to make extra squish allowance for RPM.
Blaster come stock with about 0.080" to 0.120" squish.
Even with squish cut down to 0.010" I saw no sign of contact but it worked poorly.
No and NO.
Use an OEM or Cometic base gasket and proper copper head gasket. have the squish adjusted properly by milling the head.
(best is a very experienced special breed using whats on hand in the middle of nowhere, and always testing stuff)
At least remember this post if you choose to ignore it
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The head cant be lower as it is flush to squish band ( joeak47 reshaped hemi head) but the piston dont go far enough on the gop of the jug so im gonna mil the deck surface if my aluminium head gasket seem to leak . And i stay with quality base gasket to hahaaNo and NO.
Use an OEM or Cometic base gasket and proper copper head gasket. have the squish adjusted properly by milling the head.
(best is a very experienced special breed using whats on hand in the middle of nowhere, and always testing stuff)
At least remember this post if you choose to ignore it
I have a really good quality base gasket (from my airsal kit) that is half thick as the one on my engine, if its not enough il try my aluminium head gasket ... If i find a way to mill cylinder deck ill do it.No and NO.
Use an OEM or Cometic base gasket and proper copper head gasket. have the squish adjusted properly by milling the head.
(best is a very experienced special breed using whats on hand in the middle of nowhere, and always testing stuff)
At least remember this post if you choose to ignore it
No and NO.
Use an OEM or Cometic base gasket and proper copper head gasket. have the squish adjusted properly by milling the head.
(best is a very experienced special breed using whats on hand in the middle of nowhere, and always testing stuff)
At least remember this post if you choose to ignore it
Ha! Awk08 is right. He has me pegged.
Sometimes I forget what is easy for me may not be so easy for others new at this.
With 40 years as a mechanic and scout, I've tinkered and tuned a bit.
Thanks for the reminder AWK...
There is a guy on ebay that makes thinner base or head gaskets. They are copper. I have used a few of them from him with different thicknesses for different applications and all work great. They are reusable also, Base and head. Its been a while since I orderd last so i will have to look for the link.
He will do them in either aluminum or copper and whatever thickness you want.
Here is there site.
http://www.coppergaskets.us/contactpage.html
He will do them in either aluminum or copper and whatever thickness you want.
Here is there site.
http://www.coppergaskets.us/contactpage.html
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So, just for fits and giggles, I made a headgasket up out of 2 pie plate and 2 sheets of paper between them. I needed a 0.015" gasket for one of the heads I was trying. I fired the Blaster up and drove it around a bit. Lets see how it survives.
Here is the squish test about to happen:
Head lower right came off, upper left went on.
Here is the squish test about to happen:
Head lower right came off, upper left went on.
I have put one layer pie plate alu as head gasket and thiner base gasket, leek down test passed , engine run way better thunderfast throttle response, ride it 1hour, retorque everything, still pass leekdown test !!
Even with one piston ring missing? Might have to remove a ring off mine then. 
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/wossner-piston-ring.65978/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/wossner-piston-ring.65978/
