clutch

[littleb]

I bought my o3 blaster and buddy said it needed a clutch.Now he had it apart and took the push rod out.He put that back together.SO i took the clutch to a repair shop and all the plates where in almost new condition.So I put it back together and started it up but it would barley go it gear and when it did the clutch was slipping bad.So I adjusted the cable thing on the clutch leaver all the way out until there was just 1 thread in the pearch and it works better.But its not right.Now I am wondering is there anyway that the clutch rod where the cable hooks to it be put it wrong.Or can it be adjusted.If any one can help that would be great.or if someone can tell me what I did or buddy did wrong.Thanks

 

[Cochise]

if you have your cable adjusted too tight it makes your klutch slip, you should have a enough freeplay in the lever to be able to fit a nickel between the lever and the perch

 

[littleb]

there is no free play at all.what should i do

 

[Cochise]

loosen it it up until there is free play, whoch means turn the barrel adjuster in

 

[littleb]

when I do that then the clutch slips

 

[jlsparky7]

Are you sure the clutch is slipping? If you have freeplay and the clutch slips then you put something back together wrong. Are you saying it slips or is your friend? He was already wrong once he probably doesnt know what hes talking about.

There is no way the clutch is already bad in an 03 blaster unless the oil wasnt changed or it was a drag bike. Ive been beating the hell outta my shee for 3-4 years and the clutch is still like new.

 

[Cochise]

some people get clutch slippage and actual clutch bite mixed up.. ive dealt with it one too many times, and proved far to many people wrong

 

[littleb]

when I back the adjuster on the clutch perch i can start off but when i give her it does go very good.tires wont come up and they wont spin.But when I turn the adjuster in to get the free play it will barley move when I let the clutch out it just revs up and will barley move.I have to get some one to push me to get going and when I am going it stills revs up and wont move very fast.So i took the clutch back out and there is a nut on a rod that has to go in the hole of the outside clutch basket.do I spin that nut all the way in or out all the way so it fits in the hole.Can that rod that the cable hooks to be in wrong.The clutch plates and wear plates are well in the tolerance.

 

[110octane]

this should be a simple but convoluted solution. If your clutch slips the engine accelerates (revs) faster than what the actual forward speed indicates. which sounds like whats going on.

Start by checking how stiff the clutch lever is when you pull it in.
If its stiff try to check for damaged cable/incorrect routing, dry cable.

If all of it is ok then-
check the clutch push lever on the left top side of the case for internal wear, replace if there is excessive scalding.

Make sure your clutch springs are within tolerance, replace if not.

Mostly make sure the clutch was reassembled correctly, there is a specific order the clutch plates, friction plates and cushion spring all go in. And there are 2 different sized friction plates,

1st plate is the regular sized friction plate, then the first metal clutch plate, next the larger inside diameter friction plate, next install the cushion spring over the clutch boss and position it underneath the friction plate. (note all of the remaining friction plates are the same size as the first plate installed) install the remaining friction plates and metal clutch plates, stagger each metal clutch plae so its plate tab is bositioned 60 degrees clockwise from the previously installed clutch plate tab. the last plate installed must be a friction plate.

the following is what I think you will need to do regardless if you need to replace anything or not.

1 park your ATV, with break on
2 expose your internal clutch
3 loosen clutch cable at your handlebar lever all the way
4 loosen the pressure plate nut on the clutch
5 now move your clutch push lever (on the top left side of case) toward the front of the engine until it stops hold it there
6 turn the pressure plate nut until it moves and aligns your clutch push lever mark on the end of the clutch push lever with the raised cast mark on the crankcase
7 hold in this position and tighten the pressure plate nut
8 now perform the clutch free play adjustment procedure (at your handlebar lever)
9 put back the clutch cover once adjustments are complete.

 

[littleb]

and what will this do

 

[110octane]

and what will this do

this will hopefully put your clutch adjustment back correctly.

your clutch cable is mechanically attaced too the nut on the pressure plate, via the clutch push lever, the push lever moves the first pushrod, ball bering, 2nd push rod (in that order) that is connected to that nut Im talking about. And when the clutch is pulled in that chain reaction pushes that pressure plate out which disengages the clutch allowing you too shift,

As it is right now your adjustment on that nut is too far out (not enough threads showing/or vica versa)

Trust me wether or not your clutch is slipping or draging this should correct the problem. I had the same issue upon my rebuild and this fixed it.

 

[littleb]

so when I put the clutch plates back in and go to put the nut on how far do I spin it on.

 

[littleb]

isnt the cltuch nut in behind the pressure plate.Doesnt the springs hold it on

 

[110octane]

isnt the cltuch nut in behind the pressure plate.Doesnt the springs hold it on

Yes, sorry thats not the one Im talking about. Technically the clutch nut is behind the pressure plate your right, the nut Im referring to is on the end of the 2nd push rod and I refered to it as the clutch nut and shouldnt have, I think its called the lock nut.

But anyway, Im only saying to make sure the clutch plates are in that order, if they already are then you dont need to take them out.

As far as how much do you turn the "lock nut" reread my directions, only turn/tighten it enough to move the clutch push lever pointer/mark inline with the case mark. Do you get it? Its hard to explain without a picture, sorry.

 

[110octane]

and yes the springs hold the pressure plate in. the push rod assembly will push the springs out and "disengage your clutch" when you pull the clutch lever in.

there for if not adjusted properly you can have clutch slippage or drag.

 

[littleb]

dont think I am getting it.I dont remember seeing a line or case mark for the rod.I put the plates in and pushed the tip of the rod all the way in and spun the nut on until when i put the pressure plate on the nut is in the whole in the pressure plate.But i guess it wrong.I will have to look for a mark.The service manuel doesnt say any think about it so I dont have a clue.

 

[110octane]

Your confusing 2 things as 1 I think.

1. Clutch push lever = the lever at the end of the clutch cable thats sticks out of the top left side of the case. #23 in www.bikebandit.com schematic of the blaster clutch.
(on the inside of this lever, its shaped like a pointer. and on the case there is a small tab sticking up. you need to line these up.

2. Push rod = # 18 in the same schematic. and the lock nut Im talking about is #20 (and no these do not have any markings on them.)

so now take a look at the directions I posted previously and do steps 1-9

And which service manual do you have, the Factory? because its probablly not in the factory service manual. If its a Clymer manual this is all in chaper 6

 

[littleb]

yes it is the factory Manuel

 

[110octane]

yes it is the factory Manuel

Get a clymer manual (someday anyway) I got mine of e-bay for like $30 or you can pick one up from you dealership Im sure.

 

[littleb]

well I will try this this week and see what happens