Do I need to disconnect the cable first?you have to pull the clutch side cover and loosen the nut turn the screw in until the pointer on the clutch arm lines up with pointer on the case retighten nut and put it all back together again
Ok thanks. Also I have one more question, how do I put the kick starter back on correctly?shouldn't have too but I would.by clutch side cover I mean kicker side. the screw and nut I refered to is in the center of your clutch assembly
I think gear and shaft. How do I line it up when reinstalling the crankcase cover?the arm or the gear and shaft?
AlSO...Don't forget to put a drop or so of Locktite on the screw/nut or you might have even worse problems.shouldn't have too but I would.by clutch side cover I mean kicker side. the screw and nut I refered to is in the center of your clutch assembly
Well I tried to adjust it but after it got so tight the pressure plate would just push towards me and it would quit adjustin.im not good at the describing part check u tube for videos
Ok well I read this a little to late... I stripped the screw pretty bad. Now what?AlSO...Don't forget to put a drop or so of Locktite on the screw/nut or you might have even worse problems.
Stripped the screw head also I removed te cable before adjusting. Why does the pressure plate push out after I tighten it so much?Trying to loosen or tighten? Screw head or threads? Need to pull pressure plate to replace screw. I do believe you need to have extra slack in the cable before adjusting clutch screw. I also believe after proper adjustment you back screw off 1/4 turn.
This is why I refer to the manual.
Because you have taken all the slack out of the system and the screw is now pushing against the Pplate . That's why you have to back the screw off when you get it adjusted. The rods and ball have to be free otherwise you will weld the ball and rod and will have a bigger problem than now.Stripped the screw head also I removed te cable before adjusting. Why does the pressure plate push out after I tighten it so much?
Because you have taken all the slack out of the system and the screw is now pushing against the Pplate . That's why you have to back the screw off when you get it adjusted. The rods and ball have to be free otherwise you will weld the ball and rod and will have a bigger problem than now.
As to the screw, you could cut a slot in it and use a straight screwdriver, if you choose not to replace it. Clean the screw and use blue loctite on it.[/QUOTE
So how do I free the Rods and bAll?Because you have taken all the slack out of the system and the screw is now pushing against the Pplate . That's why you have to back the screw off when you get it adjusted. The rods and ball have to be free otherwise you will weld the ball and rod and will have a bigger problem than now.
As to the screw, you could cut a slot in it and use a straight screwdriver, if you choose not to replace it. Clean the screw and use blue loctite on it.
So what if the ball an rod got welded? Do I have to split the case?Couple threads about clutch:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ing-you-need-to-know-most-useful-posts.28478/
Manual \/ Will explain it better than I ever will.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual.17325/
The ball and rod get welded together if it's ridden with no clearance between them. This is why you don't coast down long hills with clutch in. Or be towed with clutch in. Or revving engine a lot with clutch pulled. Basically this piss poor design is for momentary contact only.
Basically this piss poor design is for momentary contact only.