changed exhaust now boggs down and cuts out...please help

Time to find a different "machinist".

My thoughts exactly. Since you're new here, I figured that I'd explain a few things.

Forums are fed by 2 things: flow of information and interaction. Without either of those, you have either Wikipedia or Facebook.

First, the long term users are all here because we either want to keep Blasters up and running in mass quantities or because we want to contribute. With the exception of the sponsors, we aren't in this for any type of personal, professional, or financial gain. If we recommend something, it is for a good, founded reason. We have nothing to gain from posting any sort of misleading information, so if we tell you to do something or send it to someone in particular, we really do have your best interest at heart.

Second, it is very hard to find good information about anything these days without a stack of manuals and reference books unless you go to a forum. Fortunately, the forum dedicated to Blasters (this one) happens to be frequented by a very knowledgeable and decent group of people. Very few of us know each other on a personal level and the rest of us know about one another only what is posted here. If someone gives intentionally bad advice on here (or any other forum that I know of), their posts are followed by immediate scrutiny and they don't last long.

Those things being said, we'd all recommend that you follow what we're saying to do. Just about any single frequent member here can tell you everything you need to know about building an engine that runs very well for a very long time. As Blaaster would say, "just ask and the information shall be forthcoming." I tell people all the time that if you have access to this forum, failure is on you.
 
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My thoughts exactly. Since you're new here, I figured that I'd explain a few things.

Forums are fed by 2 things: flow of information and interaction. Without either of those, you have either Wikipedia or Facebook.

First, the long term users are all here because we either want to keep Blasters up and running in mass quantities or because we want to contribute. With the exception of the sponsors, we aren't in this for any type of personal, professional, or financial gain. If we recommend something, it is for a good, founded reason. We have nothing to gain from posting any sort of misleading information, so if we tell you to do something or send it to someone in particular, we really do have your best interest at heart.

Second, it is very hard to find good information about anything these days without a stack of manuals and reference books unless you go to a forum. Fortunately, the forum dedicated to Blasters (this one) happens to be frequented by a very knowledgeable and decent group of people. Very few of us know each other on a personal level and the rest of us know about one another only what is posted here. If someone gives intentionally bad advice on here (or any other forum that I know of), their posts are followed by immediate scrutiny and they don't last long.

Those things being said, we'd all recommend that you follow what we're saying to do. Just about any single frequent member here can tell you everything you need to know about building an engine that runs very well for a very long time. As Blaaster would say, "just ask and the information shall be forthcoming." I tell people all the time that if you have access to this forum, failure is on you.
Wat exactly. Do i need to do step by step...motor is apart case in half. Ready to b cleaned...new piston kit seal kit and bigger jets coming this week..where do i go from here
 
A blind man could see that the head needs resurfacing and bellying out, I can see at least 2 spots where a gasket would struggle to seal.

It looks like the top of the bore has excessive ring wear.

Any cylinder with all the crosshatching reamed out by a sloppy piston should be rebored.

What brand of measuring instruments did your builder use?

Your piston shows signs of being extremely hot, so hot that the incoming fuel charge from the forward transfer ports, has cooled the metal causing crystallisation and destroying the crown.
What do i need to do now.. motor is already split open..wat do i need to do now...i dont want to have to rebuild again..
 
Massive air leak past an oil seal will do it every time!

That is why a leak down test should be done often and always on a used bike purchase.
 
buy new crank bearings and seals then send your crank out to get rebuilt it if u haven't already.clean everything very well, lap the cases flat,inspect everything thoroughly then reassemble with new seals ,crank bearings and rebuilt crank
 
buy new crank bearings and seals then send your crank out to get rebuilt it if u haven't already.clean everything very well, lap the cases flat,inspect everything thoroughly then reassemble with new seals ,crank bearings and rebuilt crank

Exactly that. I'd also send the cylinder and head out as well. The cost to repair it will likely be more than what KOR charges for his head mod, so I'd go that route. When you send the cylinder out, you absolutely must send the piston with it.

That should give you the time needed to get the bottom end taken care of minus the crank. You can lap it yourself and save a good bit of money.

If I was you, I'd follow this guy to a tee:

http://www.macdizzy.com/1989hopup.htm

We'll fill in the very few blanks that he has.
 
defiantly send the head, cylinder and crank to KOR, ken does amazing work and i would recommend him to anyone. also DON'T cheap out and buy Chinese bearings only use Japanese koyos
 
buy new crank bearings and seals then send your crank out to get rebuilt it if u haven't already.clean everything very well, lap the cases flat,inspect everything thoroughly then reassemble with new seals ,crank bearings and rebuilt crank
Y do. Need to rebuild crank
 
I am afraid that with the amount of debris that has shattered off the piston, the big end bearing will be full of it.

It is almost impossible to flush a crank bearing clean!
 
I bought a wiseco bottom end rebuild kit it came with a crank koyo bearings gaskets and seals for 200 and haven't had a problem with it
 
Things that you can live without for now:
Transmission
shift drum
shift forks
everything else in the right side, minus clutch components
electrical system
flywheel
all studs (unless they were over-torqued)

Things that need to be replaced:
Piston
Rings
all gaskets
all bearings
all seals

Things that you should send to be repaired:
Cylinder
Head
Crank

Things that you should check:
Reeds
clutch plates, discs, basket, etc.
tank cleanliness
oil injection pump if you plan to retain it

Things that you should buy:
UNI filter
main jets 260-300, maybe even up to 330
carb rebuild kit
8-10 plugs B8ES or BR8ES, makes no difference

In the end, you'll have an engine that performs much better than new and will be just as reliable. I'd set my budget for around a grand to make sure that everything is taken care of. You can do everything for under a grand if you're careful and lucky. I've done a complete overhaul (minus crank repairs), heat cycles, break in, and jetting in 3 days. That did include some planning and help from a friend, but it is achievable.

There are few better things in this world than having all the parts you need in front of you for an engine build and going through with it. Having the same engine running 4 years down the road brings about a nice grin. Be patient and be vigilant and you'll have a good machine.
 
everything that was said and i want to mention that. If you rebuild this yourself you really need to measure the cylinder bore to get the right sized piston,if you just buy one online and put it in then it will not last very long at all.That being said it is better to let a professional do the cylinder and correct sized piston :)