Carnz' 500cc Blaster Project

Status
Not open for further replies.
I always wondered about that on some motors.. why they put a mount up on the head?.. it always seemed like it added stress where it wasn't needed. A friend of mine has a three wheeler with a upper motor mount that is fully cracked off the top of the motor.. you can also see where the frame was welded back together in front of the motor (like the front wheel got pushed into it) We are guessing someone died dirving the ATC before he owned it...
 
if only it ran for me to know how much it does vibrate...
i dont care if it vibrated my hands off right now i just want the biotch together and running.

got an e-mail that my LA Sleeve shipped today :)
found a new OEM yamaha piston, still undecided on buying that or going with a Wiseco. the people on the IT/YZ forums seem to love the OEM pistons for some reason.
 
With the motor mounts I made and rubber isolators between the bars and stem, the vibration wasnt bad at all on the bars. The thing that go me was that the pegs vibrated so bad, after 15 minutes my feet were so numb I couldnt tell if the were still on the pegs. Douple up on the Dr. Shools gel inserts :D
 
haha, i'll see if i can devise some sort of peg vibe dampeners as well. good call on that, I didn't even think about them.

with my mount bushings and an anti-vibe stem I think the vibration will be pretty managable.
 
found a new OEM yamaha piston, still undecided on buying that or going with a Wiseco. the people on the IT/YZ forums seem to love the OEM pistons for some reason.

Since you're going to balance this motor ya might see if someone on the IT/YZ forums knows if there's a weight difference between OEM & Wiseco. I think I had paulieb compare OEM & Wiseco 400 pistons & the Wiseco's where lighter but I don't remember how much. Just thinkin ya might want to use the one you can easily get the next bore sizes in.

Something else I wuz thinkin about. Some of those old motors had solid wrist pins & some where like a tube (hollow). Ya might save a lot of moving weight with the right size hollow pin.....
edit: ooops ... was meanin crank pin, not wrist pin.
 
Last edited:
i currently have a 88mm wiseco and its hollow pin. i am going to get a standard bore wiseco as well now. i contacted surf and turf again and they want me to send the piston and all with the crank to be balanced so im going to stick with all wiseco for the topend so its consistent

and they readily have 87, 87.5, 88, 88.5, and 89 bores so i will not have a problem getting overbores, where the OEM pistons are getting scarce.
 
wow is all i can say man.. good luck with the project and it looks great thus far..

as far as oldskool83... man if i had a old 250x frame..the possibilities are endless..

friend of mine just killed his 07 h-d fatboy and after he got an insurance check he was able to buy it back... hes taking the engine and wiring out of it now to stick it in a quad frame..THAT I WANT TO SEE..
 
wow is all i can say man.. good luck with the project and it looks great thus far..

as far as oldskool83... man if i had a old 250x frame..the possibilities are endless..

friend of mine just killed his 07 h-d fatboy and after he got an insurance check he was able to buy it back... hes taking the engine and wiring out of it now to stick it in a quad frame..THAT I WANT TO SEE..


that'd be wicked heavy....but cool as hell!
 
Small Update:

Modified my cylinder and head today to accept larger M10x1.25 Studs instead of the factory M8x1.25 setup. Like the 1987 Quadzillas the 6-Bolt cylinder/head on the 82-83 YZ490s like to blow headgaskets, so the fix is to use larger studs and increase the bolt torque. They remedied this problem by using 7-bolt cylinders/heads on the 84-90 YZ490 and 92-93 WR500. Got that all finished today, so hopefully everything works smoothly!

Also, made my new wiring diagram for my electrical system. Ignition side is pretty basic, wires to CDI then Coil, master switch, key switch etc. On the lighting/charging side, I am using a relay setup and master switch to have my electrical system run in three modes.
Mode 1: Off(simple enough!).
Mode 2: Charge (Current flows thru the charging relay and charges my on-board battery and provides additional power to my Trailtech Vapor Computer. Current is monitored thru a 20A fuse to prevent wire melting. The Vapor is setup to show available voltage at all times. When my charging system is "off" the trailtech runs off the on-board battery power, when I see this power start to fall off is when I switch it to charging mode. This will help me prevent over-charging of the battery which would happen if I didnt have a seperate charging circuit.)
Mode 3: Lighting (Using a diode, current will flow to activate both the Charging and Lighting Relays. Current then flows thru the Lighting relay to the H.I.D. Ballasts for each headlight and then power direct to the taillight. Between the relay and the Ballasts is a 15A fuse to prevent excessive current draw should an electrical fault occur in the ballast, don't want a fire! I measured the exact HID system I am going to use and on startup when they draw the most current i only saw 12A MAX, so I have some headroom here.)

I am using custom-wound Lighting coils and should be seeing about 95watts max capacity, the on-board battery will help to absorb the lower current situations when revolutions are not as high.

Heres my diagram, pretty much in its finalized phase.
149637_1732406913614_1341766503_31891340_4947141_n.jpg


Stator plate with custom-wound lighting coils installed and wired in. Floated ground to run to rectifier. Should put out approx 90~100w at 12v. Plenty for my electrical system needs.
74850_1739595053313_1341766503_31905298_3064114_n.jpg



Lastly, I cleaned up and painted my Banshee Hubs and installed new bearings(waiting on the seals from Yamaha). Also, painted my Norman420 spindles today.
73836_1733796428351_1341766503_31893524_2319983_n.jpg



thats all for now!
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.