C-list blaster project

[Awk08]

sounds like it's getting too much fuel ?
float height @ 20 - 21.5mm ?
reed petals good ?

btw....1 good backfire can shear a woodruff key

 

[Davo]

She has backfired a good bit trying to start it. Does not stay running when she fires. Carb has been worked over 2 times and is whin specs.

 

[MercMenace]

Looks like TORS is still on it. Is the parking brake still on? Have you tried disconnecting the ignition?
I am guessing woodruff key or bad ground.

Have you checked compression and leak tested since you had the top end off? did you reuse the gaskets?

 

[MercMenace]

Is the throttle cable bound up anywhere? Have you pulled the air filter housing off the carb to have a look to see if the Needle is seating properly and the slide is coming all the way down?

 

[Davo]

I am betting on the key. I though I had accounted for everything else. This is a mid 90's build.

Leak test is coming. Need to build a unit.

Just a head scratcher why it ran fine 3 weeks ago. Put in new frame and wont start. Ground points are well sanded down to frame.

 

[Davo]

Looking into the woodruff key. Got the bolt off pretty easy. Made a quick a flywheel holder with some spare maple and some bolts. Ordered a flywheel puller this morning.

 

[Davo]

This is a test after I checked grounds. Nothing has changed in the last few days other than its 8 outside.
Just to give a idea of how it sounds.

 

[Davo]

She passed her leak down test from reed boot on. She held air tight.
I pulled the fly wheel and can say the woodruff key was in good condition and in place.

It will run briefly and die if I try to throttle it. Will not try and hold idle.

 

[Awk08]

without going back thru this all, lets summerize.
checklist.......

carb specs: check
leakdown test: check
grounds: check
woodruff key: check

reeds:
new spark plug:
good blue spark:
stator ohm readings:
coil and plug wire ohms:
unplug kill switches:
obstructions in intake or exhaust:
piston in correct direction:
try different CDI:
black/white stripe wires not grounded to frame or solid black wire:

feel free to add to this, then copy/paste this list into your next post, and add "checks" to what you've already tried, or check them off as you do, so we don't keep posting the same solutions you've already tried.

I'd try next....
unplug the kill/key switches 1 @ a time. do you have both key and kill ?

try to start it with the exhaust and intake boot off the carb, 1 at a time to eliminate obstructions as the cause.

then move on to the electrical tests: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-88-02.46159/

 

[speedyslyder]

you have a white ignition coil??

 

[speedyslyder]

i swapped frames before/and started first kick.
you had to have knocked summin loose/or connected wrong-----electrically.

 

[speedyslyder]

im still trying to figure this image out
click to expand

 

[Davo]

carb specs: check
leakdown test: check
grounds: check
woodruff key: check

reeds: Look tight and flat w/ no chips or contortions
new spark plug: switch out 2 new plugs
good blue spark:
stator ohm readings:
coil and plug wire ohms:
unplug kill switches: switchs are both unpluged
obstructions in intake or exhaust: both were examined many times
piston in correct direction: yep
try different CDI: tried one from yellow working blaster and no change
black/white stripe wires not grounded to frame or solid black wire:

unplug the kill/key switches 1 @ a time. do you have both key and kill ? yep and done

try to start it with the exhaust and intake boot off the carb, 1 at a time to eliminate obstructions as the cause.
yep and done

then move on to the electrical tests: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-88-02.46159/

 

[Awk08]

looks like that leaves electrical.

you don't have spark ?
try the yellow bikes stator ?


good blue spark:
stator ohm readings:
coil and plug wire ohms:
try different CDI: tried one from yellow working blaster and no change

use an auto test light to check orange wire at coil for pulse as you kick it, if so, suspect a bad coil.

try the ignition tests ....
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-88-02.46159/

also, with the switches on, or disconnected, see if you have continuity between any black and black/white stripe wires ?
you should not, that is what the switches do, connect those 2 to kill ignition

I went thru all this once, I mean everything....twice
I finally found the 3 way soldered ground connection, located under the tape of the wiring harness right near the steering stem, the sharp edge of the solder had worn thru the black/white stripe wire killing the ignition.
don't hesitate to untape the harness in that area to seperate the wires and inspect for damage.
regular black electrical tape to wrap it back up.
or untape it completely and remove all unused wiring (tors, oil tank, ect.)

you have a white ignition coil??

those white coils may have come stock on some later year blasters ?
but i've never seen one.
they're also popular on ebay searches


try the yellow bikes stator and coil.

 

[Davo]

FIXED. moral of todays story. red/white wire under seat does not go to yellow/red wire. It goes to red/white wire.
Switched them and she jumped to life on the first kick.
I though I had taped and lettered coded everything. Duh!

 

[Awk08]

awesome, glad it was an easy fix

 

[MercMenace]

Thanks for letting us know. Makes all a little better.

 

[speedyslyder]

success
glad you got it done/score!

 

[Davo]

The help was awesome. You learn a lot though that process. Starts on the 1st kick like she should. Need to get a few odds and ends worked out on the body accessories. She'll be ready for jetting in the spring.

 

[Davo]

Made a rear tail light bracket from some scraps laying around.

And the tool no Blaster owner should do without.