What up peps i wonted to know if any of you guys have used boost bottles on your blaster,and would it be a good investment????
Boost bottle??????? Info
- Thread starter redbabeboy
- Start date
Oh ok figured i would ask,what are sum other low end power adders?? Already have smaller front sprocket??
Air box lid off, but you need to increase the main jet by at least 2 sizes.
+4 timing advance gives a little more low/mid.
Smaller dia tyres.
+4 timing advance gives a little more low/mid.
Smaller dia tyres.
Four Phillips scwews connected to the thing under the seat if you follow the tube from the carb
Take the lid off, re jet.
You may need to adjust the idle..
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
................................................................................
Then with a new,b8es plug, plug chop to confirm jetting.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch of the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
Plug chop video.
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
You may need to adjust the idle..
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
................................................................................
Then with a new,b8es plug, plug chop to confirm jetting.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch of the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
Plug chop video.
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
My son was running a boost bottle on his DT200 powered Blaster:
You can just barely see it between and over the carb and the cylinder.
Here is a close up from someone else's engine:
The volume is 200 cc's and the neck size is 8mm and the neck length is 29mm.
I figure a bigger bottle and more open neck should give a stronger signal as long as it is in the right tune range. Working with this Helmholtz calculator webpage I came up with some figures.
An 800 ml bottle with a 1/2" or 12-13mm neck that is 3/4" or 19mm long will be in the same tune range as the original.
I have played with the boost bottle on this old bike:
OOPS! No, it was this one:
Yes it is rough, but it runs well and it has been in the family for most of this century, and if you came over for a visit without your own bike, this is what you got to ride.
But I digress. It comes with a boost bottle and you can swap it off and on and see that it has an effect.
What about these boost bottles?
Nope, they are not going to work. Go back to page Helmholtz calculator webpage and do the calculations. With that long hose frequency is down in the 30-70hz region when we need it around 160hz.
So, all those shiny long hose Boost Bottles are not going to do a thing for you.
No wonder the poor old Boost Bottle has such a poor reputation when some of the stuff being sold is such a scam.
You can just barely see it between and over the carb and the cylinder.
Here is a close up from someone else's engine:
The volume is 200 cc's and the neck size is 8mm and the neck length is 29mm.
I figure a bigger bottle and more open neck should give a stronger signal as long as it is in the right tune range. Working with this Helmholtz calculator webpage I came up with some figures.
An 800 ml bottle with a 1/2" or 12-13mm neck that is 3/4" or 19mm long will be in the same tune range as the original.
I have played with the boost bottle on this old bike:
OOPS! No, it was this one:
Yes it is rough, but it runs well and it has been in the family for most of this century, and if you came over for a visit without your own bike, this is what you got to ride.
But I digress. It comes with a boost bottle and you can swap it off and on and see that it has an effect.
What about these boost bottles?
Nope, they are not going to work. Go back to page Helmholtz calculator webpage and do the calculations. With that long hose frequency is down in the 30-70hz region when we need it around 160hz.
So, all those shiny long hose Boost Bottles are not going to do a thing for you.
No wonder the poor old Boost Bottle has such a poor reputation when some of the stuff being sold is such a scam.
