Blasterbruce New CHEAP Parts Blaster !

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Thanks.

I am looking for a non servicable one that my lad can ruin when practicing porting.

They are as scarce as rocking horse crap in Oz.

I would cry if he ruined a good jug.

Not interested in buying as the freight is extra heavy to here.
 
Well I have it most of the way tore down , The bottom end is in my living room , Starting to get to the Harder parts of the tear down on bottom end , Need to buy a Flywheel puller so if anyone has one there willing to spare pm or post , Also I need to find someone to bore and hone one of my 4 cylinders I have here , and buy more parts and tools , I have Klots 2 stroke mix that I will be using with 93 octane , Yamalube in the Clutch side , I Need to learn more about air/fuel and carb adjusting and get my main and pilot jets in order , New to the tuning part of 2 strokes , Never really had a modded 2 stroke before , Go easy on me , I have ordered my Leak down tester and have a Stock carb and the carb that came with this parts blaster with the DMC exhaust ,K&N Filter, Air Box Lid Removed , By the Look of the Piston its still Stock jetting , but I could be wrong as I am new to tuning these Little Monsters
 
Bruce, good score. I can tell you it is nice to have spares to work with.
It is also nice to be able to swap and compare stuff, pipe to pipe, tire to tire, etc.
Hold on to your parts until you can test them out, then sell what you don't want. One man's fish is another man's poison.

Time to start putting a motor together. If you are new to this, start with your worst parts and go cheap.
Piston and gasket kit, honed, stock carb, stock air box and filter, NO porting, stock base gasket and headgasket.
Buy a flywheel puller ($12-$25) and a buy or make a leakdown tester. Buy a PASSEL of plugs. At least 4. Get the proper type.
Save the mods and the porting for later, do a stock build first if you need to learn. Then build power on, bit by bit.
If it is stock or nearly so, it is not so likely to blow up, and set-up information is more readily available.

How many posts have we seen:
"I've got a ported and polished bbk stroker with +4 timing, 35mm carb and custom exhaust that has no power. What is wrong?"
Where do you start?

Once the worst motor is together and you are running, you can start hopping it up bit by bit, or rebuilding motor #2, just a bit hotter.

Trust me on this. I have done it both ways!
 
Bruce, good score. I can tell you it is nice to have spares to work with.
It is also nice to be able to swap and compare stuff, pipe to pipe, tire to tire, etc.
Hold on to your parts until you can test them out, then sell what you don't want. One man's fish is another man's poison.

Time to start putting a motor together. If you are new to this, start with your worst parts and go cheap.
Piston and gasket kit, honed, stock carb, stock air box and filter, NO porting, stock base gasket and headgasket.
Buy a flywheel puller ($12-$25) and a buy or make a leakdown tester. Buy a PASSEL of plugs. At least 4. Get the proper type.
Save the mods and the porting for later, do a stock build first if you need to learn. Then build power on, bit by bit.
If it is stock or nearly so, it is not so likely to blow up, and set-up information is more readily available.

How many posts have we seen:
"I've got a ported and polished bbk stroker with +4 timing, 35mm carb and custom exhaust that has no power. What is wrong?"
Where do you start?

Once the worst motor is together and you are running, you can start hopping it up bit by bit, or rebuilding motor #2, just a bit hotter.

Trust me on this. I have done it both ways!


Thanks best ! , Yeah my plan is build as close to stock as possible with what i have , I sent payment for Slicks leak down tester , Will be Buying 4 new plugs after I get the New Piston kit and one of the Cylinders bored and honed , Will be Kind of slow going for now as I'm cleaning everything up and Making it better while i'm waiting on parts tools and more Time out of the Sun to work on it , Thanks Again Best !
 
Well I did some work yesterday and last night , Cleaned up the Exhaust pipe from the Silencer to the Head pipe , Also Cleaned up the Silencer itself some , I Want to Find The Original DMC Alien Sticker For the Silencer as it was Missing , The Only Sticker on the Plastics was a K&N filter Equipped sticker , The Front Fenders Are Useable , The Rear Is Cracked Under The Seat So , Will have more pics uploaded a Little later of all the Randomness I've been Doing , I Need to Order More Parts,Tools, And Accessories !
 
Some Polishing never hurt !
Dirty side
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Clean Side
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Cleaned up the Silencer Pipe Very Well !
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Throttle Cover
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Cleaned up the Head some more on my Home made Head mod
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Need Some more Work on the Head , But its a Good Start
 
I need a Flywheel puller , Get one of 4 of my Cyl Bored and Honed , New Piston Kit with gaskets , And other stuff i need to find that i already have , Here is the parts quad as it sits Now
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Well I Finally Took Pics Of the Dmc Head Pipe , Its About 1/2 Done so Far , All I've used is Some Green Scotch pad and 2000 Grit Wet Sanding , No polish has been Applied Yet , Tell me What you think !
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Man that seems like too much work for me! But it's looking good!

So is the DMC a fixed flange? Welded on but swivels? or what?
 
Man that seems like too much work for me! But it's looking good!

So is the DMC a fixed flange? Welded on but swivels? or what?

I'm not sure to be honest , looks to be rusted in the spot its in , I didn't want to hit it with anything to make it move , Thanks it Is allot Of Work , Been Hand sanding With 2000 wet and its Removing the Pitted Rust very Well , I was not sure if the Pitted parts would come clean , but I'm assuming the 2000 Grit is doing its job Haha !
 
If ya ever find out how it's mounted , I'm curious to know! looks leak proof! If that is the case and it seals completely then you will not have to remove the exhaust for a leaktest! which is a bonus!
 
If ya ever find out how it's mounted , I'm curious to know! looks leak proof! If that is the case and it seals completely then you will not have to remove the exhaust for a leaktest! which is a bonus!

Well i was thinking about this , I Have my pro circuit platty head pipe with Removable Flange , Use the Same Method as most people and use Rubber , I have Roofing Quality 6Mil Rubber and just put the flange over the rubber like you would your head pipe , Except you can do this test on your bench now instead of waiting until after its in the Frame , Just a Thought !
 
Well i was thinking about this , I Have my pro circuit platty head pipe with Removable Flange , Use the Same Method as most people and use Rubber , I have Roofing Quality 6Mil Rubber and just put the flange over the rubber like you would your head pipe , Except you can do this test on your bench now instead of waiting until after its in the Frame , Just a Thought !

That would work perfectly!
 
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