A-ARM help

I don't want to make it sound like the pipe notcher from HF is a total piece but it seemed to be lighter duty than a nicer unit. The price on the nicer units also range from $100 to over $1,000. I can't stomach more than the price tag on the HF one... I'm not planning on going into mass production on these things so I think it would hold up to the beating it's going to receive from me.

I might run a set on mine for a while and then make a few sets to cover the costs of the materials for my set :)
 
Heim joints can be had in a wild range of angle capacities and material choices. You can get heim joints from Mcmaster-carr for about $15. I'm not sure if they have the angle capacity but it's possible.

The problem with putting heims on it are the adaptors. They have to custom made for the blaster because of the pinch top joint.

I'm going to see how far the joints I have will go but I think they'll work alright for what I want to do which is wider stance and a little smoother ride but not rediculous amounts of travel.

Edit: brandoz beat me to the post, but we we're thinking the same thing

This is the page I searched on:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#heim-joints/=ad634e
 
I could but part of the joy of owning a blaster is having....blaster parts. I'd be much prouder sacrificing 2" of travel because the ball joints can't handle those angles in trade for being able to say I'm doing it with a blaster.
 
another idea for the really hard core is to build custom spindles and mount the heims upright, but it will probably increase the turning radius. not a big deal if you ride open spaces, but tight trails are not so good lol
 
No need, they make heims that can go up to 60 degrees of motion set up normally. The problem with those joints is the fastener used has to be short enough for the outer ring of the joint to pass over it. It has to be a button head bolt and getting one in the correct hardness could be problematic, not impossible but tough.
 
Alright, so some updates. I'm working on this in real time so progress will be fairly slow.

mmajay, would you like me to start a thread for myself or can I jack the ever loving heck out of yours?
 
Alrighty, So I have collected an odd assortment of things out in the garage. I took pictures of some of the goodies last night and I'm going to be starting in earnest today. I have specific goals to meet today to get everything setup for geometry class later on. I'm going to take the spring off of the shock and then reassemble on one side and then remove and stow the brake assembly so that I can cycle the stock (and at some point my) suspension through it's motions without having to fight the spring or anything else that could hang up.

So for starters, some of the parts I've collected. Excuse the pics, I just shot these last night out in the shop.

The pieces I've got ready:

SANY0040.jpg


The stock suspension. It should look real familiar to most people. Banshee shocks and norman420 spindles.

SANY0034.jpg


SANY0035.jpg


SANY0037.jpg


The tubing sitting over by the wood stove:

SANY0038.jpg


and the new tubing notcher:

SANY0042.jpg
 
Alright, just for anyone who would like to know, stock suspension with banshee shocks is 6 1/2 " travel to slightly compressed on the bumpstops.

The lower a arm mounts are 1.932" long and the uppers are 6.812" long.
 
Yeah, stock stinks... DIY FTW!

Even using banshee shocks I should have about 9" (using my simple maths) using ball joints without bind. I want the front end wide enough I need spacers on the rear to even it up.
 
sicivicdude said:
Yeah, stock stinks... DIY FTW!

Even using banshee shocks I should have about 9" (using my simple maths) using ball joints without bind. I want the front end wide enough I need spacers on the rear to even it up.
Click to expand...

oh thats gonna be slick man.. i am going to do the same type of setup..i scored some +2 +1 burgards im gonna mod them and run yfz shocks..should have at least 9
 
Tater, your's will be a better 9 inches though.

I'm increasing the suspension's leverage on the shocks which will result in a weaker control (but the same travel)

You're going to use shock absorbers with increased throw which means you make the lower mount farther out decreasing the suspension's leverage on the shock resulting in better control.

To tell you the honest truth, I'm working on these arms with the space inside the upper arm much larger than needed for the banshee shock. If these work well, I'll probably sell these arms and order new tubing and use the jigs I'm going to make for these arms and change where the tube crosses for the lower shock mount to fit a set of 450R shocks.

They won't technically be long travel even then but they'll have better control using the better shocks. :)
 
your should still do ok though i would think they are valved havier than blaster shocks.. it will be alot better than stock!
 
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