1979 yz250 for 100 bucks :D

did some more stuff tonight, removed the crappy old fork covers, the seals on the forks look fine, a tad bit of oil on the left side seal, the right looks new, put new grips on and painted the bars, primed the pipe and silencer.....
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i was lookin, some of the electrics are newer lookin, and the right side fork looks to have new seals, like someone started restoring it, or sumthin, the airbox boot is newer too, i might pull the left side fork and do the seal, anyone have any experience on doing fork seals, is it hard to do?
 
finished priming the pipe and silencer with heat resistant primer, now i'm gonna pick up some heat resistant silver paint ( i don't like dull old black). i'v decided that the plastics are in such bad shape i'm gonna go ahead and dry sand them and use some yellow krylon on them( the yellow, from what i'v been told, is the same as the stock color). i'm gonna try to get the gas tank better lookin tho, cause i rlly don't wanna krylon the tank.
 
Looking good so far! IDK about the fork seals (fixin' to have to find out for myself how hard of a job that is when I do them on my Kawasaki cruiser motorcycle this winter), but what exactly looks newer on the engine's electronics?

If I'm not mistaken, that year of YZ still had breaker points from the factory. Was the old point ignition system replaced with a newer electronic setup?
 
yzrider said:
Well, went and did some more cleaning on the bike and found that the swingarm bearings are shot, but that's fine cause I gotta take off the swinger to put on a new roller for the chain anyways.
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I was just about to ask you about this. That pivot can be a pain to remove when they are 30 years old (or even 10). Sometimes all they need is a bit of heat and some bashing with a large hammer. Other times you have to cut them. You pretty much have to jam a sawzall blade between the swingarm and the frame then cut the bolt on both sides then you can use a press to push out whats left of the bolt.
 
Braaaptor said:
Looking good so far! IDK about the fork seals (fixin' to have to find out for myself how hard of a job that is when I do them on my Kawasaki cruiser motorcycle this winter), but what exactly looks newer on the engine's electronics?

If I'm not mistaken, that year of YZ still had breaker points from the factory. Was the old point ignition system replaced with a newer electronic setup?
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its got a newer ngk spark plug boot and wirea and i'm assuming the coil (i think thats it) is newer too, then there is a little grey box under the seat where all the electonics go that looks newer as well, the wires all are nice, newer looking too, not all faded and nasty
 
79xs said:
I was just about to ask you about this. That pivot can be a pain to remove when they are 30 years old (or even 10). Sometimes all they need is a bit of heat and some bashing with a large hammer. Other times you have to cut them. You pretty much have to jam a sawzall blade between the swingarm and the frame then cut the bolt on both sides then you can use a press to push out whats left of the bolt.
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i'm hoping it won't come to that, i hope it comes out about as easy as my blaster's did, lol
 
You whine about cost of intake flange but will spend $$$ to get fork seals put in :-/:-/. First thing is how bad do they leak? Next try to find a download manual for it. There should be one bolt at the very bottom of leg that holds the tube to the leg. Pull the lower from upper then you can get at the seal and wiper. IMHO, unless you're going to vintage race this it would be a waste to send them out for re-valveing or whatever. The caps on top are for fine tuning stiffness of forks and uses plain compressed air. I:I Consider proping bike up so piston is level and at TDC and put several drops of 2s oil in there and let it set for a good while till you get ready to fire it up, probably pretty dry in there.

Looking good though !!:DI:IB)
 
Larry's Shee said:
You whine about cost of intake flange but will spend $$$ to get fork seals put in :-/:-/. First thing is how bad do they leak? Next try to find a download manual for it. There should be one bolt at the very bottom of leg that holds the tube to the leg. Pull the lower from upper then you can get at the seal and wiper. IMHO, unless you're going to vintage race this it would be a waste to send them out for re-valveing or whatever. The caps on top are for fine tuning stiffness of forks and uses plain compressed air. I:I Consider proping bike up so piston is level and at TDC and put several drops of 2s oil in there and let it set for a good while till you get ready to fire it up, probably pretty dry in there.

Looking good though !!:DI:IB)
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thanks dude, the forks aren't leaking bad, so i'm just gonna let it be, as for the intake, a little permatex and self adhesive tape is gonna fix
 
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