YamaSaki YFSex-250 build

justin.naekel

New Member
Sep 7, 2010
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Las Vegas, NV
Hey guys, just wanted to jump in and let you know about the build that is underway as of yesterday.

Got a smoking deal on a nearly brand new Ninja 250 motor. 2005 with 1400 miles, everything needed, all electrical, carbs, cooling for $200.

Dont know if any of you remember my last posts but I was looking for an engine swap idea... I ended up rebuilding my motor. Wild port job, stroked, new bearings and seals, new pipe, all the goodies... thing ran great - for about 3 total hours. Like moron, i decided to use a junk Namura piston and the skirts broke apart on me. Trashed everything, the jug, conrod bearings, piston obviously, crank seals and one crank bearing.

I was able to borrow a spare motor my buddy had laying around and that got me up and running.

Anyway, i got this little 250 motor the other day and decided yesterday at about 9am that I would venture into the swap. Following is the progress so far.

The Motor:


The Bike:


Motor out:


Had to cut the lower part of the frame out to make clearance for the oil pan. Made new lower rails. Almost made a big mistake of taking out both side... would have been REAL dumb.. but did it one side at a time. Worked good:


Both sides welded up (still need reinforcement) and motor sitting in there... just trying to get it lined up at this point. no mounts yet:


got alignment done and now starting on mounts. Using 1/8" stock for mounts. Will be gusseting and reinforcing everything soon:


Lower mount done:


Another shot of the lower rails... still need work but a good start:


Motor mostly mounted. 4-point mounts are done. Still need to do the upper rear mounts but i have to make the mounts removeable or I wont be able to get the motor out:


Chain is on and aligned good. I am working on the wiring right now and trying to figure out what to do with the radiator...

will retain all functions of the original ninja except blinkers (although i had considered adding them for comical value). Still need to finish up the frame work and motor mounts but all in all, not bad for a days work.

more coming with more pictures too... we'll see what the week brings for time if I can get this finished up by the end of the week.

the exhaust Im going to have to do a custom job on that but shouldnt be an issue. the stock blaster clutch cable works great. Only had to enlarge the cable sleeve holder on the motor a tad.

Will be running LED tail lights and dual HID headlights (one for hi, one for low). Also adding a battery in place of the stock airbox and pods on the new carbs.

Stay tuned. more on the way.

- Justin
 
I like this. Very clean looking swap. You can jam a pretty good sized battery in the air box. I put a stainless steel plate across the bottom of my air box and bolted the igniter to it. The wires will add up very very quickly. I kept my wiring to the basics and it ended up with around 15 wires that run from the battery box to the front of the ATV.. thats not counting the wires that go to the ignition pickups and stator. Removing all the safety stuff from the harness can also take some time. Items like the automatic headlight (only turns on after it after it starts), clutch switch, kickstand switch.. all part of the fun.
 
I like this. Very clean looking swap. You can jam a pretty good sized battery in the air box. I put a stainless steel plate across the bottom of my air box and bolted the igniter to it. The wires will add up very very quickly. I kept my wiring to the basics and it ended up with around 15 wires that run from the battery box to the front of the ATV.. thats not counting the wires that go to the ignition pickups and stator. Removing all the safety stuff from the harness can also take some time. Items like the automatic headlight (only turns on after it after it starts), clutch switch, kickstand switch.. all part of the fun.

thats what I was gonna do originally... but then thought, this isnt much smaller than the bike... and lays out about the same... why not leave it? Extend what i need to extend and tidy things up a bit. I can short the kickstand and clutch safety switches... dont care much about those anyway. blinkers just leave unhooked for obvious reasons. gauges not gonna have em (or maybe but they would look aweful and couldnt make use of speedo anyway) or i might go with some universal type gauges cuz i would like to keep an eye on engine temp and such.

otherwise just plug it all in like you would on the bike. Im even going to use the ninja bar controls (except the twist throttle. not going that route.

- Justin
 
anyone got an idea on a radiator? I am looking for something with an e-fan on it but it needs to be small. I was thinking something similar to a honda superhawk radiator or honda interceptor radiator (01 or newer) where they used 2 small side mounted radiators with tiny little fans.

I cant find an easy and decent way to install the ninja 250 radiator.

- Justin
 
I like this. Very clean looking swap. You can jam a pretty good sized battery in the air box. I put a stainless steel plate across the bottom of my air box and bolted the igniter to it. The wires will add up very very quickly. I kept my wiring to the basics and it ended up with around 15 wires that run from the battery box to the front of the ATV.. thats not counting the wires that go to the ignition pickups and stator. Removing all the safety stuff from the harness can also take some time. Items like the automatic headlight (only turns on after it after it starts), clutch switch, kickstand switch.. all part of the fun.

and what kind of motor are you running? safe to assume a yami XS400 or 650 motor?

- Justin
 
dirt bike rads? with small electric fans from like radio shack or something like that..

as for gauges.. id find a way to put the tach on it

I was thinking like YZ rads... but expensive and the radi shack fans dont hold up to dirt (as how i know). The cost makes them hard for me to get ahold of.

Lower 84 Interceptor radiator has my intrest though... no fan on it though.

And I agree. REALLY want the tach and temp guages. the problem is that the ninja 250 cluster is one solid unit. I could pick up a universal motorcycle tach but the 250 motor has a RL of 13,000 rpm. Hard to find something that goes that high. most universal guages are for stinky harleys...

- Justin
 
and what kind of motor are you running? safe to assume a yami XS400 or 650 motor?

- Justin

Yes, an XJ550 I4. And yes, it would be good to try and use the harness as is and just fix what is needed. It's not as clean looking but it saves a ton of trouble.


As for the gauges.... I will have to read up a bit on the firing of your motor, but you should be able to use a normal car tachometer. The catch is finding one that does 1 and/or 2 pulse. Autometer does make a tach that pushes 12 or 13k, but the older (cheaper) units sometimes only do 4 and 3 pulse. Also, you might be able to use a standard wal-mart style temp gauge... again it might be something that would be to be fine tuned using some radio shack parts (like you said).
 
if you can fit it. a yfz450 rad would be good

Will have to look at those. The thing is I am concerned about the fan issue with em. the streetbike motors are designed to have a lot of air moving over the rads... but in an off-road application, speeds are lower and running the motors harder so I need something that will draw air past when not moving fast enough.

I will definately explore that option though. thanks.

On the guage thing, I have been looking and Sun made one a while ago that went to 13K I think. I know the one I posted doesnt go that high, but it is a good baseline. I dont plan to be running the thing at redline all day long (or maybe I will, I dont know) so it doesnt HAVE to go that high, but I do want it to be accurate.

Not gonna make much progress this week as I am heading out of town tomorrow morning but gonna hit it hard on saturday when I get back and hopefully have it up and driving by tuesday - assuming I can work something out with the exhaust but that shouldnt be too difficult.

- Jusitn
 
The super hawk radiators only have one fan although they are very small and cool effectively. They are placed smartly on each side with the cowling forcing air through them. The only time the fan even comes on is when it's sitting there idling. Even riding slowly there's enough airflow for those radiators to be effective.
 
Some more updates. Moving slow but I got the exhaust mostly done. Looks like ass right now but its getting there. Still need to grind some welds and clean it all up. Also got the clutch cable hooked up. Radiator will be next.

Will most likely re-do the exhaust though. I got some mufflers off fleabay that im going to run dual pipes with... but this will work for now.

enjoy.





For the coupler to the muffler, I used 1" EMT conduit coupler... am a bit concerned because it is aluminum, but I will be replacing it with steel shortly (as soon as I can find some steel ones) welded to one side of the pipe and a clamp on the other side.


- Justin
 
This is a rad from a Kawi Mohave 250. It has a fan but the fan takes up a lot of room.
The fan can be mounted offset if you need to too. I am using this rad with no fan with no overheating problems at all, even with slow trail riding.
I run a thermostat off of a Kawi Ninja 250. Allows for fast warm up and constant temp.

167297_10150134022440803_549110802_8377905_633987_n.jpg


168780_10150134022235803_549110802_8377899_7001434_n.jpg


196673_10150156145500803_549110802_8637922_667441_n.jpg
 
This is a rad from a Kawi Mohave 250. It has a fan but the fan takes up a lot of room.
The fan can be mounted offset if you need to too. I am using this rad with no fan with no overheating problems at all, even with slow trail riding.
I run a thermostat off of a Kawi Ninja 250. Allows for fast warm up and constant temp.

<Pics Removed>

yeah.... i dont have that kinda room. I like how its setup though.

I know about the superhawk radiator... i have a 99 superchicken right now. thats where I got the idea.

A new plan is to keep the 250 ninja radiator and possibly go banshee style and sitck it up in front although that makes it pretty vunerable to damage with the way I ride...

more coming tonight/tomorrow i hope.

- Justin
 
and now am going to scrap the exhaust... I found a supplier that will do some 1" mandrel stainless bends for me so I can ditch the wedge cut/weld setup on there right now and hopefully look WAY better and function better as well since it will be smooth and not choppy inside. but this will suffice for now until my material arrives this week. gotta go borrow the father-in-laws mig with gas for the new pipe though. My little gasless works great but take a sh*t ton of work to clean up the welds.

- Justin
 
What did you do with the old Blaster engine you built?

well the motor I took out was a loaner from my buddy. The motor that the loaner replaced was my built motor. I still have it. Needs a new piston (the skirts broke off after 3 hours of run. The rest of the motor is fine I think but i still want to split the cases and make sure all that crap comes out and its clean before dropping in another piston and repeating. Its loaded though. Stroker crank, mild port, milled head, new bearings and seals all around.

I plan to get rebuilt and then putting it up for sale. I dont have any real need for it anymore. Also will have 2 sets of exhausts going up, and FMF Fatty and a DG that needs refinishing.

On to the project though, I got new mandrel bends ordered and those should be here anytime this week so I will have a propper free flowing exhaust. Also got one of 2 mufflers in so I am going to start fabbing that up as well. Will get pics again later tonight or tomorrow. Wasnt able to really work on anything last night.

- Justin
 
More progress over the last few days. Finally got my mufflers in from FleaBay and got the dual exhaust done - for the most part. Still needs some work but its getting there, 95% done anyway.

enjoy:

duals2.jpg


duals1.jpg


duals3.jpg


duals4.jpg


Also got the radiator in place (not fully mounted yet) and most of the plumbing done. I just need to mount the t-stat housing, coils, and runthe wiring and install carbs and I should be able to test fire before ripping it all apart again to finish up the fabrication and cleanup.

radiator.jpg


plan to have it done this weekend (at least to the test fire phase) and then by next weekend ready to take out for testing.

- Justin