wht do you think??

shizzle8787 said:
Man I wish there was someone close to me, to give me a little first hand help with tuning this thing. I'll learn as I go lol.
Click to expand...

Where are you located? We might be able to find someone somewhat close, probably in your state, not saying it would work out but ya never know lol I:I
 
Re: Re: wht do you think??

89blaster89 said:
if i didint live in washington i would come over lol! on second thought ill ride the blasty there I:I
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LOL, that would be a hell of a ride!





Herpderplol said:
Where are you located? We might be able to find someone somewhat close, probably in your state, not saying it would work out but ya never know lol I:I
Click to expand...
Alton, IL
I'm pretty easy to get along with lol!
 
If you got any time on your hands just read through the forum you will learn allot.. If you don't,,,, then read AGAIN!!, in time it will come to ya. Trust me if i can get it you can. I'm an epileptic and i forget things ALOT,, but when i read things i tend to remember.. Also this is a great forum as you probably already know, many great people on here to help you out, don't be afraid to ask.
 
If you are bogging off the line you likely need a smaller main jet.

Turn your Air screw out all the way, and needle all the way down, see if that improves.

Ideally you want to be able to get the bike moving and do top end main jet adjustments with the needle in the middle position.

In other words at full throttle if the bike bogs you have too much fuel (smaller Main), if the RPM's suddenly race up on you then you need more fuel (Larger main).

I always start a 2T with High speed tuning, it's a little more difficult but much more accurate throughout the whole range. Also, do not use smokeless oil while tuning, maybe I am just paranoid but I always while tuning visually check to make sure it's running a little rich.

A quick google search pulled this link, I don't know what's on the page or have even read it but it has a two stroke diagram that shows the adjustments you can make and what range they affect.

Carburetor Theory and Tuning - Two Stroke MotocrossTwo Stroke Motocross
 
Some people talk so much clap trap.

Set the float level, fit the jets to suit your mods.

Needle on middle clip, adjust idle and then plug chop.

If you are bogging, then it is more than likely the motor is starving for fuel.

Smoke is no indication of the motors state of jetting and cannot be used as a tuning guide.

I run 25:1, hardly any smoke, and my jetting is just a tad rich.

..................................................................................................................................
Do not stuff with the air screw or needle, do the following, after fitting jets as prescribed.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .


Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg


You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

............................................................................................................
Could also pay to do a leak test if you have not already done one.



14mqc1y.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Blaaster did a fine job of detailing everything from A to Z but I would also mention that there are two types of Bog, Rich and Lean.

Here is a source to help you understand the difference to help us out.

Q#7:What are some indications that my jetting is rich?
A#7:A slightly rich condition will result in noticeably reduced performance, or "bog". Say your main jets are one size too rich, it starts and runs fine, but whenever you have the throttle pinned (or Wide Open Throttle=WOT), the motor doesn't continue building RPM; it bogs down because there's too much fuel per volume of air and it cannot burn efficiently. Other indications of being rich are fouled plugs, thicker than normal exhaust smoke when the motor is fully warmed up, and the dreaded overheating. Be careful of these symptoms though, as any of them alone may point to a non-jetting related problem (thick white smoke is more likely a head gasket leak, fouled plugs could be a weak stator). While overheating due to a rich condition is not common on Banshees (typically the plug will foul and not fire before it gets too hot), it's still not a good idea to run for extended periods with the jetting too rich. Periodically reading your spark plugs is a good way to get an idea of your overall jetting; if the center electrode (the part that's snow white when brand new) and base ring are light chocolate brown, you're jetting is perfect (slightly rich); if it's black and wet, you're too rich. Doing a plug chop will tell you for sure if your mains are too rich or lean (more on this later). Another trick is to warm up the motor, pop the choke out to the first notch, and ride it; if it bogs worse with the choke out you know you're too rich. Some motor mods will cause a rich condition, as well as changes in temperature or elevation (see Q#13, 14, & 15).

Q#8:What are some indications that my jetting is lean?
A#8:A slighly lean condition can result in a hesitation, missfire, or revving high & fast with no power. Say your pilot circuit is lean, when you start it up with the choke "on" it's fine, but when you turn the choke off it idles very high; there's more air per volume of fuel so it burns hotter (in this case airscrew adjustment may solve the problem). Other indications of being lean are a backfire and rapid overheating. Overheating alone will cause serious problems, so even a slighly lean condition is usually much worse than being too rich. Like rich conditions, lean indications may not necessarily mean that jetting is the problem; an air leak between the carbs and the cylinder can exhibit the same symptoms as lean jetting, often if this is the case only one cylinder will act lean. Never take a lean condition lightly, as it's the quickest way to damage your motor. Again, spark plug color is a good indication of overall jetting; if the center electrode remains white or light gray and the base ring shows not coloration after riding for more than half an hour (starting with fresh plugs-if the plugs were already brown for correct jetting they will not turn back to white if it's now lean), it's too lean. A plug chop will tell you for sure. The choke trick is an easy way to tell also; when the motor is warmed up, pop the choke out to the first notch, and ride it; if it runs better (no hesitation or revving high & fast with no power) then you know you're too lean. Most motor mods that improve airflow will cause a lean condition (remember more air per volume of fuel=lean), and will require rejetting richer. Temp and elevation changes can also cause a lean condition
Click to expand...

Besides that, I still stress that after you get your idle working, I would target the main jet (WOT) first, using the information I just provided you, that way you are not chasing your tail like I see so many others do.

I always mix 32:1 but it's only because I am lazy, it IS actually better to have a richer mixture, Rubbersalt who is a 2T engine build/port/pipe wiz says having a richer mixture actually helps your rings seal up better at higher rpm's thus cancelling out the lesser potential for hp and actually increasing power.

http://www.off-road.com/dirtbike/tech/two-stroke-gasoil-ratios-20502.html
 
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