what to do about my carb issues... poll

New carb of to shope to get oko 30mm working

  • send it to a shop

    Votes: 1 16.7%
  • buy the 28mm keihin from factory 7

    Votes: 5 83.3%

  • Total voters
    6
  • Poll closed .
Nov 7, 2008
482
1
44
Ok so many of you guys have seen the threads about my OKO 30mm that i cant get to idle etc.

my question is what do you guys think i should do to fix it.

option a. get a new pwk 28mm carb

option b. take it to a shop to deal with.
 
I went ahead and bought it... the shops near me charge 85 dollars per hour, sooo.. i figured it'd take them 2 hours to fix it so just geting the new carb is not that much more.
 
so.........what have you done to remedy this situation?

results of:
leakdown test
compression test
float level


have you checked for
strong spark

tried

a new spark plug

is the tors still there?
 
so.........what have you done to remedy this situation?

results of:
leakdown test
compression test
float level


have you checked for
strong spark

tried

a new spark plug

is the tors still there?

done all those except compression test. I dont have the stuff to do one of those test, however 1bad442 sold me the eigine and i trust that its was in good condition when it came from him. However I supose i should do the test and see if ive fried my pistons rings yet... Its not really ahrd to kick, but it was like that when i got it and is still like that now.


***also just curirous what jets are you running with your setup?***
 
i've got a 48 pilot and 150 main in mine right now.


so what was the float level? and is the plug fouling out?
 
i've got a 48 pilot and 150 main in mine right now.


so what was the float level? and is the plug fouling out?

how do you tell if its fouling out? Its still starting up, just doesent idle. or windout.

the float originally was at 25mm i adjusted it down to 19mm.
 
also brando the carb he has is a oko knockoff designed for a scooter my guess is the needle is totally wrong in that carb as it ran perfect with my oko 30 right before pulling it
 
also brando the carb he has is a oko knockoff designed for a scooter my guess is the needle is totally wrong in that carb as it ran perfect with my oko 30 right before pulling it

I bought the keihin equlivent to what its suposed to be using, but yea i feel more confiterible with the keihin 28mm i ordered. If it yields the same result as my oko has, then i will take it to a shop and let them get it right. and sell which ever carb they deciede to not use.
 
bvrian did u unhook the tors pieces i told u to unhook yet???

yep, i cut the wires at the throttle, unhooked both connectors, and then i pulled the brain off the frame becuase i saw no reason for it to be there.

also im sure its definitally geting spark. I kicked it holding the plug and it zaped me pretty good.
 
OKO's are good carbs. Was your bike running good before?
Also like 442 said if you bought one designed for a scoot then it's ALL wrong.
It sounds like you need a new pilot (controls lowend, idle) and a new main jet (the winding out).
 
Paulie, there are two different OKO 30mm's. There is a direct copy of a pwk 28 which is overbored to a 30mm (oval shaped verturi) right down to a keihin stamp in the roof of the float bowl even though it clearly says OKO on the side (where the keihin says keihin) and then there is a "scooter" 30mm carb which is like a PE series carb knockoff overbored to a 30mm. It's a nasty unflenching piece (of shat) which would be downright impossible to get to work right with the demands a blaster would put on it. Remember, scooters are a CVT transmission so the engine needs to hold only a narrow range of RPM's and don't need to change it very quickly unlike the blaster.

If you've already ordered the real Keihin PWK28, you're already better off and four steps ahead of where you were yesterday. You'll be very pleased with the outcome, your jetting will be reliable and constistant and your jetting changes will actually result in a marked change in running.
 
Paulie, there are two different OKO 30mm's. There is a direct copy of a pwk 28 which is overbored to a 30mm (oval shaped verturi) right down to a keihin stamp in the roof of the float bowl even though it clearly says OKO on the side (where the keihin says keihin) and then there is a "scooter" 30mm carb which is like a PE series carb knockoff overbored to a 30mm. It's a nasty unflenching piece (of shat) which would be downright impossible to get to work right with the demands a blaster would put on it. Remember, scooters are a CVT transmission so the engine needs to hold only a narrow range of RPM's and don't need to change it very quickly unlike the blaster.

If you've already ordered the real Keihin PWK28, you're already better off and four steps ahead of where you were yesterday. You'll be very pleased with the outcome, your jetting will be reliable and constistant and your jetting changes will actually result in a marked change in running.

Right on- I agree the scoot carb is all wrong.
 
did you tell whoever you bought the 28 from that it was for a blaster, so they can get the jetting close, but the fine tuning will still be on you, something a shop cannot do without the whole bike