Waiting on my blaster...

Blastersa

Blastersa

New Member
Feb 10, 2013
29
0
1
South Africa
Hey guys, so I'm gonna get my blaster at the end of the month (25ish).
And since I will be spending most of my money on buying it I won't have any cash for mods straight away. Its an 03+ model so its got the hydro brakes and new plastics. No idea about any other mods except the front wheels are flipped. The mods i have planned up until now:
Banshee rear axle
New rear tires (thinking of kendas or maybe razr 2s)
TORS removal
Air Filter (k&n, uni or twin air)
Rear shock for a preferably bolt on kit (any straight bolt on ones that improve the ride? 400ex or 250r?)

I want to extend (wider and longer) the swinger and arms as well, just not sure what I'm gonna do yet and what parts ill be able to get locally. (South Africa).
Anyway since i know you are all pic whores :p ill post some on the day i go and fetch it!

To all waiting on any parts or for the funds to roll in, good luck waiting. I'm going insane! :eek:
 
I would...without question... Save my money to get that head re-chambered and the cylinder ported! You will be double your stock factory output,and when done properly ,you'll still have the same reliability as stock. Thats very important.
As for air filter,I highly recommend a UNI Filter part # "NU-3225ST" bar none.
Your going to love your blaster. They are a very fun and simple machine that do,or can be made to do, everything right!
 
Trinityblaster said:
Make sure you do the parking brake block off as well as the oil injection block of.
Click to expand...

Not unless you want a parking brake! If your stripping the bike to save weight for racing,removing the parking brake makes total sense.

As for removing the Yamaha "Auto Lube" oil injection system and blocking off the oil injection pump,there is no need for that either,unless .....you want to pre-mix your own fuel at a specific ratio you like,or ...once again are trying to save weight (about 3 pounds),or just want a cleaner look.

If the "Auto Lube" oil injection system is working fine why not run it? They don't break,and work great. The added oil creates a better ring seal and ,in my opinion,lubricates better than the pre-mix does. 99% of oil injection failures are due to OPERATOR ERROR.Like not filling the tank that holds the oil,even though you can see if the tank is low from over 300 feet away. Imagine that. Part of your pre-ride check list.


Save the "The nylon gear breaks all the time" and "The oil pumps just stop working" myths for the sheep that believe everything they hear.
Absolutely not true.
 
Last edited:
Blastersa said:
Hey guys, so I'm gonna get my blaster at the end of the month (25ish).
And since I will be spending most of my money on buying it I won't have any cash for mods straight away. Its an 03+ model so its got the hydro brakes and new plastics. No idea about any other mods except the front wheels are flipped. The mods i have planned up until now:
Banshee rear axle
New rear tires (thinking of kendas or maybe razr 2s)
TORS removal
Air Filter (k&n, uni or twin air)
Rear shock for a preferably bolt on kit (any straight bolt on ones that improve the ride? 400ex or 250r?)

I want to extend (wider and longer) the swinger and arms as well, just not sure what I'm gonna do yet and what parts ill be able to get locally. (South Africa).
Anyway since i know you are all pic whores :p ill post some on the day i go and fetch it!

To all waiting on any parts or for the funds to roll in, good luck waiting. I'm going insane! :eek:
Click to expand...

When you do get your blaster,I recommend that you do some maintenanceBEFOREyou go riding! You are buying it used,so don't trust that the former owner did his part on maintenance. Most used blasters have had the living snot pounded out of them. Here's a very short list that goes a long way in making that blaster last,and last...

#1... Wash the "Blaster" ...don't work on a dirty bike.X(
#2... Clean the air filter
#3... Change the tranny oil
#4... Check and change the plug
#5... CLEAN the carb...you would be amazed how dirty they can be
#6... Inspect and PROPERLY adjust the chain
#7... Lube your cables
#8... Grease those "Zerks"
#9... Do a leak down test
#10...FILL the oil injection tank if your running oil injection
#11... Check and fill the tires to the proper pressure.
#12... Do a "Hard" run in 5th or sixth gear,pull your plug and read it.
#13... Check all the fasteners on the bike and tighten if needed
#14... Show us some pictures! I:I
No particular order to the list,however get them ALL done BEFORE you go riding for the first time. You could save yourself alot of grief and money.
 
Trinityblaster said:
Well the only reason to do the oil block of is reliability. I use to run the oil injection until it failed and cost me about 800$ to fix.and I thought there was a reason to disconnect the parking brake on the 03+ years.
Click to expand...

What exactly caused it to fail? Please explain.

Do you have pictures of the carnage? I'll bet money that it was jetted incorrectly If not... The oil tank was left to run dry THEN oil was added after the fact,or the system was disassembled and re-assembled,but not bled.

When your engine failed what happened? Please explain. Pictures too if you have them.
 
I had bought the blaster brand new off the show room floor. It had about 35 hours on it. We had just left camp( we were at little Dumont) I had just filled the oil tank and checked all my fluids was going up a hill starting to turn back down. It started sputtering out and before I could get the kill switch it froze up. Got back home and the piston was scared deep on the right side. Don't have pics of the piston because they got thrown away.
 
I'm in two minds about the oil injection block off. 1st of all weight won't be an issue as ill most do trail riding with hard pack, sand and dirt roads.
I want the most reliable set up available, so for now I'll keep the injection. And I stay in a hilly area so the parking brake can stay as well.
I will also be doing the pre ride maintenance, thanks for the list joeak47. And thanks for all the feedback, will post pics as soon as I can.
I want to do I complete rebuild and colour change as the previous owner has done one, but I just want to make sure that they did a good job.
No point in buying a blaster that was rebuilt by a fool just for it to fail 1 month later.
My colours will be white frame an shocks, with the stock blue plastics, but I will see as soon as I get it.
Thanks for all the replies, I'll keep you posted! :D
 
Trinityblaster said:
I had bought the blaster brand new off the show room floor. It had about 35 hours on it. We had just left camp( we were at little Dumont) I had just filled the oil tank and checked all my fluids was going up a hill starting to turn back down. It started sputtering out and before I could get the kill switch it froze up. Got back home and the piston was scared deep on the right side. Don't have pics of the piston because they got thrown away.
Click to expand...

Does not sound like lack of lubrication to me, sounds like more of an overheating problem, or lack of sufficient warm up.

Lack of lubrication should not cause the motor to sputter out, that sounds more like lack of gas, a lean mix.

When lack of lubrication is the cause of a lock up, it is usually a slowing down and then an immediate and sudden stop, with no warning other than a lack of power.

When a motor starves of lubrication the whole piston usually scuffs the bore and the big end bearing overheats.

What oil were you putting in the tank?
 
Trinityblaster said:
I had bought the blaster brand new off the show room floor. It had about 35 hours on it. We had just left camp( we were at little Dumont) I had just filled the oil tank and checked all my fluids was going up a hill starting to turn back down. It started sputtering out and before I could get the kill switch it froze up. Got back home and the piston was scared deep on the right side. Don't have pics of the piston because they got thrown away.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, so it was totally covered by warrantee?
Or is this a made up story?

Steve
 
Trinityblaster said:
No I did not bother with the warranty just sold it to some kid for 300$ and bought a sandrail for duning then in 08 I bought the blaster I have now from a friend.
Click to expand...

Nice story.....
As with most stories that state ..."My blaster blew up because of the oil injection" There is always not one shred of evidence that the oil injection failed.
It also cost you $800 to fix it??? Thats the most expensive top end rebuild I've ever heard of. :-/... then you sell it for $300 when its still under warranty??? Yeah right. Ok.

Nice camp fire story. 8-|
 
Methinks that there is more to this issue that meets the eye!

Classic example of an oil pump being blamed for operator error.
 
It would have been 800 bucks because the head was toast and when the piston went it bent the connecting rod. I walked away from it because I wanted some thing different and I failed to mention there was a trade on his end as well as the 300 bucks.
 
Sometimes when you are up to your neck in a hole, you have to stop digging.

One day you will wake up and realize you were only making the hole deeper.

Please share what know for sure and what has really happened to you.
Lable opinions as such, and ask questions and suggest possibilities, but don't exaggerate, or make up stories to fit your opinions.

I can assure you that Awk, Larry's Shee, JoeAK47, Blaaster and I in our combined 250 years of experience can scent out a whiff of Bovine Scatology.

About 2 stroke auto-lube systems.
Common here on snowmobiles and Sea-Doos and were very common on street driven 2 strokes back in the day.
Failures were extremely rare, much more rare than fuel mixing errors.
Reliability and convenience are why they were installed by the manufacturers.

If "oil pump unreliability" were true, the snowmobile trails would have been littered with oil starved dead sleds. Instead it is the poorly modified and unmaintained sleds I see at the sides of the trail. Blaming it on a failed pump is a good way to take the blame off one's self, but you are not fooling a wise mechanic. He knows how rare that is. One look at a blown motor and a good mechanic can tell if it was oil starvation or some other cause. Air leaks, lean jets, performance modification errors, overheating, wrong oil, cracked or missing lines and just plain forgetting to fill the oil are the normal culprits.

So lets put this "unreliable" myth to bed.
You may have taken it off because you THOUGHT it to be unreliable, but that doesn't make it true.

Steve
 
So I went to the current owner today to get some pics for you guys.
Here is the front view.
Blaster3_zps414d369c.jpg.html

With some unknown expansion chamber, any idea what it might be?
Blaster1_zps117b4acf.jpg.html

Another unknown, silencer. It looks like carbon fiber? Any ideas on this what this might be?
Blaster2_zpsba8de961.jpg.html

And last a pic from the back.
Blaster4_zps761605ee.jpg.html

Sorry if the images are too big or out of focus, i took it with my sh*tty phone.
Any help on IDing the unknown parts will be greatly appreciated.
As for the tires i found out he has maxxis razr on the back and what looks like stock on the front.
Just over a week to go! Super excited!
 
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