Gonna leak test my girls motor in the morning, maybe tonight and report back. Got the main seal on the way, so hopefully it's just that main seal. I'm 99% positive that's the only thing wrong.
Two rebuilds...underway
- Thread starter DeJay1206
- Start date
So, got the leak sealed up on my girls bike. Stator side crank seal was the culprit. Now back to mine. Everything is running great, but unless I am in the powerband in when shifting into 5th and 6th it takes a good bit of time for it to build up to get into the powerband. It's not bogging anymore, but it's not running "perfect".
I moved the needle clip up one position and it fixed the bogging but like I said, it still doesn't seem perfect. I have a 310 main in, I'll have to do a plug chop and verify that that's the correct plug, maybe that's causing it? Not real sure what else it could be.
Once it hits the powerband it runs fine. I'm thinking it could be the pipe also, I'm used to my fmf that thrived in mid range and this f7 loves the powerband. So maybe I'm just not used to it yet...
I moved the needle clip up one position and it fixed the bogging but like I said, it still doesn't seem perfect. I have a 310 main in, I'll have to do a plug chop and verify that that's the correct plug, maybe that's causing it? Not real sure what else it could be.
Once it hits the powerband it runs fine. I'm thinking it could be the pipe also, I'm used to my fmf that thrived in mid range and this f7 loves the powerband. So maybe I'm just not used to it yet...
As I said though, it's not bogging anymore, just seems like there is less power down low in 5th and 6th than there should be. Could also be the 22s I'm running now with the stock sprocket setup...
When I'm in the powerband shifting it's fine. Like I said, think I'm just not used to it.
I'm gonna get a 38 rear and 13 front sprocket and o ring chain. Think the 38 will make a difference or should I add a 12 front to the mix as well?
I'm gonna get a 38 rear and 13 front sprocket and o ring chain. Think the 38 will make a difference or should I add a 12 front to the mix as well?
Get a look at the gearing calculator.
http://www.celicatech.com/luni/gearingcalculator.html
3 teeth on back = 1 on the front.
http://www.celicatech.com/luni/gearingcalculator.html
3 teeth on back = 1 on the front.
After some research on here I see that dropping to a 38 does actually add top end. What's the best thing I can do to get a little more bottom end? Drop to the 12 up front? Do I need to remove any links or will it work fine with the 92 link chain.
We run a 12:40 combo with a stock chain.
Removing one tooth on the rear makes the gear taller therefore more speed, that is if the engine can get to rev out.
Removing one tooth on the rear makes the gear taller therefore more speed, that is if the engine can get to rev out.
Soooo. The blaster crapped out on me in the woods. I did plug chops and got it set with a 330 main. Went riding afterwards and was in 4th gear wot and it died. Tried kicking it, changing plugs, nothing worked. Got towed home and leak tested. After about 2 hours I was down from 7 psi to 3. So there's a small leak somewhere or I'm not getting a tight seal on the exhaust port.
Anyway, it felt like I lost all compression so I took the head and cylinder off to check the piston and the walls...
Here's what I found...
Not real sure what to do from here.... All I know is I'm frustrated...
Anyway, it felt like I lost all compression so I took the head and cylinder off to check the piston and the walls...
Here's what I found...
Not real sure what to do from here.... All I know is I'm frustrated...
maybe try using a real builder this round ?
not one that uses a 3 stone hone to bore cylinders.
this is twice that cylinder has failed you within a year, and his track record with others sucks too. he didn't get the nickname "hack/saw/destroy" just for our entertainment,
he earned it
waiting to see if you make the same mistake thrice.
btw....don't believe fake moses, it's all smoke and mirrors
those triple ports aren't all they're cracked up to be, a single, properly worked exhaust port works just as well on a trail motor !
and as for his claim he beat me in a drag race......my single exhaust port was at least 4-5 bike lengths ahead of him out past 300', the standard drag race length, until his 14/40 gearing out ran my 13/40. the race was over before he passed me !
plus I was in a 3' high weed field and he was on a mowed road.
in the trails he was never even close
was just time to clear the air
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Idk about all that Joe, not gonna point fingers anywhere except at myself for not making sure everything was absolutely perfect. I must have messed up somewhere for it to happen...
don't take this wrong, i feel really bad for you, but if someone doesn't tell you the truth here, you'll keep finding it out the hard way.
twice you messed up ?
i doubt that from a guy who can rebuild complete engines, got all the correct info on here, and that 330 main jet was exactly what i ran with that pipe on a stock carb.
what about all his other failures ? guess it was all owner errors too ?.......NOT !
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This sucks! Well I hope you learned your lesson. If you let the same builder do any work on that motor history will repeat itself and there will be nobody to blame but yourself. I hope you make the right decision and get back on the trails bro.
Idk guys. I'm not blaming this on anybody except me. Could have been one of many things that caused it. I'm just irritated that I ran it twice and need to rebuild. Irritated at myself, that is. But yeah, I'll have her good in no time.
Perhaps try a CAST piston instead of the forged? I always run cast pistons, and have had zero problems running them. I'm also running porting, re-chambered head, high compression, pipe, etc. ...Zero issues.
Why did you choose a forged piston?
Why did you choose a forged piston?
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