turbo blaster build possible..

VeTTeMaNC486

New Member
Mar 16, 2009
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Walterboro SC
I know there is a thread on here already about this but I did not want to highjack that thread. Well I have a tiny ass turbo I bought off ebay to try to turbo a 185dirt bike motor i was going to put ona gokart, since I could never get the motor to crank (wires are my enemy lol) I have this turbo just sitting here. I have looked online and found a 100 watt 50 psi electric oil pump I could use for oiling the turbo, obviously I would have to get an oil cooler and a tank to store it in. I can fab a tank no problem though. I guess I would have to mount some kind of battery to run it. I do not know much about electricity and circuts, but would a blaster charge the battery since it has lights? Isn't that what the stator does? I dont wanna sound stupid here I am sorry if I do lol. Like I said I don't know much about circuts and all that. Any mods to get more amps out the stock electrical system?

All I need to get this to work is a waste gate and a oil pump and since I will be doing a draw through set up no intercooler. Thinking about trying it after I do a camswap in my car. I will be doing this to the blaster in my sig. I know my exhaust sucks but I kinda hate to cut it up since i dont have the stock one incase I ruin it. Give me a reason to get a better one I guess lol. The main thing I am worried about is tuning for the carb. I will start out at like 3 or 4 psi and work my way up to like 8 or so probably. Wouldn't it run super rich when not it boost? Don't wanna change plugs every couple days and don't want it to be a slug off boost.

I really think this will work. I am pretty knowledgable about 4 strokes and car motors and I know 2 strokes are different but they are still internal combustion piston engines. One thing I have thought about though was blowing the intake charge out the exhaust. I don't think it would be to big of a deal because it should still pressurize the cylinder, although I admit I am not sure how the ports are positioned in the cylinder. They are basically like the camshaft of the motor. I know that on a boosted car you want a camshaft with out much overlap so you are not blowing the intake charge out the exhaust but even with a large overlap cam, you will still pressurize the cylinder, just not as efficiently as with a smaller overlap cam.

If I could get this to work I would eventually get a 240 kit and a +3 or +4 stroker crank to help spool up time and I would get it ported probably by flotek, but here is where I am kinda wondering about, but since I know little about 2 strokes and porting them correct me if I am wrong please. I would probably get it trail ported, my thinking, if correct, is there is less "overlap" in that type of set up since it is made more for lowend and mid range than all out top end power, which would be more boost friendly. If I am wrong sorry I made a fool out of myself. I would also want to keep the compression down, to like 8:1 or 8.5:1 because boost and high compression do no get along especially being non intercooled. I want to keep this a 93 octane motor but if I had to I could run methanol or something. Doesn't meth make it run cooler? Have also pondered alcohol injection to cool the intake charge.

I have a F.A.S.T. wideband 02 sensor and a/f gauge that I could use for tuning, I just dont want the 2 stroke oil to burn out the expensive ass sensor, I wonder if it would..

Any thoughts or comments please?
Would a 240bb +3 stroker on 7 or 8 psi out run a 660 raptor in a drag race? lol a friend just got one I wanna spank him with a lowly blaster if possible. :)

edit - looking at my turbo now, its a TD025M-0xC x is a digit i can't see, scratch on the id plate. This thing is tiny, measuring with a tape measure, cause I dont feel like messing with a dial caliper, the compressor inlet looks to be around 1 inch inside diameter, the outlet inside diameter is around 7/8 of an inch LOL. The turbine side inlet inside diameter seems to be around 15/16 of an inch, might pull it apart and port it to 1 inch and polish int inside, the outlet on the turbine side is around 1.25 inch. Dang this thing is tiny lol, hope the tiny blaster can spool it. With it was ball bearing.. o well.
 
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i posted the thread on the turbo blaster.. had agood responce from alot of knowlegable people on here... basicly what i researched it down to is.. a right side pipe would be optimal for exhaust flow to spool the turbo.. BUT to keep the scavagine effect of the pipe.i have also narrowed it down to.. the turbo would need to be mounted after the expansion chamber/ head pipe.. hell could prob even mount it at the rear of the blaster.. simmaler to like a STS turbo kit on a vette, or ls1 f body
 
I am about to goto bed but tomorrow ill try to get some pics of where I think I would put it. Probably where the silencer pipe connects to the expansion chamber. I test fitted it on there, like just by holding it there and it almost lines up, I could cut a small grove in the end of the pipe and bend it and weld it up and it would fit fine i think, I just dont wanna cut up my only pipe even if it is a dg... lol wish I had my stock stuff..

Its 3 AM here so im off to bed.. lol
 
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And I thought about putting in at the rear, but wouldn't that be too far for the air and fuel mixture to travel to get to the motor? Kinda different than the sts set ups because fuel will be mixed with the air. Seems like it would have horrible throttle response.
 
before you say you wish you still had your stock stuff.... look at my thread in the engine section under stock pipe cut out..

and like i said... even the rear would work... get apipe from hardware store that is the same size as the pipe from expansion chamber to silencer.. run it back a lil... weld up a exhaust flange, to conect the turbo to the pipe, start the blaster just to see if there is enough exhaust flow to spin up the turbo
 
before you say you wish you still had your stock stuff.... look at my thread in the engine section under stock pipe cut out..

and like i said... even the rear would work... get apipe from hardware store that is the same size as the pipe from expansion chamber to silencer.. run it back a lil... weld up a exhaust flange, to conect the turbo to the pipe, start the blaster just to see if there is enough exhaust flow to spin up the turbo

I mean i wish i had my stock stuff to cut up. lol and yes it will spin the turbo just holding it against the exit of the expansion chamber best i can far from a leak free seal. Would almost spin it idling. Spinning and spooling are two different things though.
 
this i know... but if you can get it to seal up tight and pour alil oil into the oil lines, just to start and rev.. you should be able to feel air forced out of the com pressor side.. ehh i suck at explaing things. lol
 
this i know... but if you can get it to seal up tight and pour alil oil into the oil lines, just to start and rev.. you should be able to feel air forced out of the com pressor side.. ehh i suck at explaing things. lol

The pump I want is cheap, under a hundred bucks. I would get that first cause I don't wanna ruin the bearings in this turbo. Had to sell my left arm to buy it cause it was an expensive little thing. And if I toasted the bearings I have no idea where I would get some for it. Prob just pay someone to rebuild it lol. And without a load on the engine I dont think it will push alot of air anyways.
 
Just did a little research since I can't sleep.. lol
I read the stock stator puts out about 55 watts. So unless I somehow get a more powerful stator or something this whole idea is screwed. The pump I want to run is 100 watts. Way more than stock. I want to run it because it will produce up to 50psi, which is about what an automotive engine operates at and I figured that's what it would need to be properly lubricated. There is another pump that is only 65 watts, still more than the stock stator puts out, but closer, although it only produces 10 psi.... would that be enough for the turbo? The turbo has a tiny hole for oil to flow into it, I am guessing for a restriction for some reason.
 
you do not need or want to much oil pressure into the turbo.

you take the chance of pushing threw some seals.

they make restricters for the oil flow into the turbo and having it higher on the quad means your return line will work good.

on the STS kits they have an oil pump that's for the return oil line and it still uses the cars oil pressure.

i would think you would want a pretty small turbo internal gate etc.

i just dont know if you really would have the power to spool it at a nominal rpm. to high and it's a waste of time.

also with the reed system will it still seal properly with boost.



i plan on trying to turbo a 400ex or a warrior 350 when i get a chance.
but make alot of things easier.

i've thought about mega squirt onto an ATV would be cool but fuel injection
i have the same issue,,, power how much the stator will use etc.



i personally would use either a 3000gt or auto DSM stock turbo and stock BOV. very small AR housings etc easy to spool. very fun
 
you do not need or want to much oil pressure into the turbo.

you take the chance of pushing threw some seals.

they make restricters for the oil flow into the turbo and having it higher on the quad means your return line will work good.

on the STS kits they have an oil pump that's for the return oil line and it still uses the cars oil pressure.

i would think you would want a pretty small turbo internal gate etc.

i just dont know if you really would have the power to spool it at a nominal rpm. to high and it's a waste of time.

also with the reed system will it still seal properly with boost.



i plan on trying to turbo a 400ex or a warrior 350 when i get a chance.
but make alot of things easier.

i've thought about mega squirt onto an ATV would be cool but fuel injection
i have the same issue,,, power how much the stator will use etc.



i personally would use either a 3000gt or auto DSM stock turbo and stock BOV. very small AR housings etc easy to spool. very fun

even smaller turbo that the blaster could spool no problem would be a chevy/geo sprint turbo.. cant remember the years but the sprint was optioned turbo.. 3 cyl turbo made like 100 hp..

and as far as electric needs... phragle ha d avery good write up on how to do a charging system on a blaster, need to get a hold of astartor place, like ricky's, have it re wound at like 75? 85? watts float the ground, and need to buy a rectifyer for charging the battery, he said its a little bit of wiring but not hard, he did it to run hid lights on a blaster... look up his thread in the DIY section.. i think its titled serious lighting or soemthing like it
 
even smaller turbo that the blaster could spool no problem would be a chevy/geo sprint turbo.. cant remember the years but the sprint was optioned turbo.. 3 cyl turbo made like 100 hp..

and as far as electric needs... phragle ha d avery good write up on how to do a charging system on a blaster, need to get a hold of astartor place, like ricky's, have it re wound at like 75? 85? watts float the ground, and need to buy a rectifyer for charging the battery, he said its a little bit of wiring but not hard, he did it to run hid lights on a blaster... look up his thread in the DIY section.. i think its titled serious lighting or soemthing like it


YEAH the chevy turbo was pretty small, i think the 3000gt is smaller though.
i could blow on it hard and it would spool,lol.

i'll have to read that DIY. i was wondering about looking into a 700r F.I. stator peices etc. hell to bad you couldn't add a belt driven one off of one jap wanabe buggies small belt small ALT. ,lol. bypass the charge coil all together,lol.
 
I know to much oil will push it through the seals. Not enough it will ruin the turbo. The only 12v pumps I can find that will handle oil - one 10psi one 50 psi. If the smaller one would work then cool beans, no real issue with power usage from stator. I just don't want a dead turbo. I have been messing with cars and go karts etc. since I have been alive basically and I can tell u, I have never seen a turbo near as small as this one. It litterally fits in my hand without covering it completely. I get pics of it. Hell if it doesn't work on my blaster ill through it on my big bear 350 4x4 lol I:I. You said you dont know how the reeds would operate under presure, maybe getting some stiff reeds would help? and it would kinda be presurized on both sides so idk. Only one way to find out! I just hate spending money on this stuff if it won't work.
 
I know to much oil will push it through the seals. Not enough it will ruin the turbo. The only 12v pumps I can find that will handle oil - one 10psi one 50 psi. If the smaller one would work then cool beans, no real issue with power usage from stator. I just don't want a dead turbo. I have been messing with cars and go karts etc. since I have been alive basically and I can tell u, I have never seen a turbo near as small as this one. It litterally fits in my hand without covering it completely. I get pics of it. Hell if it doesn't work on my blaster ill through it on my big bear 350 4x4 lol I:I. You said you dont know how the reeds would operate under presure, maybe getting some stiff reeds would help? and it would kinda be presurized on both sides so idk. Only one way to find out! I just hate spending money on this stuff if it won't work.


I'VE BEEN TRYING TO DO SOME MORE RESEARCH ON IT I'M INTERESTED TO SEE IF IT;S POSSIBLE. I LOVE TURBOS,LOL.. CAR GEEK I GUESS.


I FOUND A VID OF A TURBO VESPA ON YOUTUBE I WANT TO FIND OUT EVERYTHING ABOUT IT.
 
ive seen only 1 turbo 2-stroke in my life, it was a 500cc banshee out at glamis CA. The owner didnt seem to get it to run that great... Sounded SUPER nasty and had a very narrow power band...

secondly a 2-stroke needs the Expansion chamber to extract the gas's from the motor.. and a turbo would disrupt that theroy all together...

im not saying it cant be done, but it woudlnt run that great.. for one thing the piston on the up stroke draws air in thrugh the REED VALVE which is a one way valve. When the piston is going down the valve is closed and the air/fuel under the piston and crankcase is pressurized forceing the air up the transferports and back on top of the piston.... so if the turbo was spooled produceing boost it would open the reed valve ALL THE TIME when the piston is creating pressure on the down stroke to close it so basicly the turbo would FIGHT with motor. and haha just thought of that ^^

your best bet to make power with a 2-stroke is porting and a high compression head... and a high octane fuel to back up the high compression
 
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I am going out of town tomorrow and won't be back untill sunday night. Going to the 12 hours of Sebring in Florida I:I. When I get back I will be busy welding a fender on my budies firebird then I am probably going to do a cam swap on my z06 that weekend, after that depending on how finances look after I drop 700 on a cam kit, I will probably start fabrication on the piping. Need to get a wastegate first. I made a muffler for my big bear today, sounds sweet I:I lol. I am probably going to get that ricky stator or whatever and put a battery etc. on the blaster to run that 10 psi pump for oiling for the turbo. Just hoping it doesn't toast the bearings. If all works well ill get a ported big bore kit and put a blow off valve on it.

And the thing about the reeds, I think they would still work because it will be pressurized on both sides so I don't really see how it would be forced to stay open. About the expansion chamber, I will be putting the turbo after it, probably where the stock air box is, fab a tank for the oil out of some scrap aluminum I got laying around, although im not a very good aluminum TIG welder... wish I had a spool gun for my mig... lol. Not sure if I should run a silencer after the turbo or not.. Will probably fab a box out of fiberglass to go around the filter somewhere. Uggg all this room I need! Need room for a battery too.. O well we will see how it turns out.