Tors????

tinyblaster

New Member
Nov 5, 2011
91
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Red Lion'PA
I was thinking about the Blaster and the mods you can do the Yamaha Blaster... I was thinking when your Blaster stops running the Forum always says try taking off the Tors.(Hint:It usually works.) Well any ways, how can Just snipping a few cords, and un-tapping thinks then usually trowing the few snipp cords a way, the Atv just starts RUNNING again..

Can anyone tell me how this process makes your Atv run..
I am a learning pre-teen that has a step-dad AKA quadsrus1 that i help work on Bikes he has with him to learn,than i met blaster forum and now im on it alot. Just want to no how tors work......:-/:-/:-/:-/:-/
 
Last edited:
Who cares how it makes it run? Clearly the Throttle Over Ride System was preventing it from running properly if it runs perfect after removing it.
 
Total Copy/Paste job from another site written by a dude ScottM.

All credit goes to him


The TORS is the Throttle Override System. It’s mainly the little black box above the left carb, simply unplug it to deactivate it. It is supposed to electronically reduce the throttle if the throttle sticks open but most people remove it because its usually the route of many problem’s.

Quick answer for removal

The black box is just above the left exhaust and is about 1.5"x1" and has a 3-wire plug. Disconnect the plug and find the switch on the handlebars for the parking brake switch and pull it off, follow the wire towards the gas tank and there is a connector or plug. Disconnect it. Also the throttle has a electronic switch and can be removed and sealed w/silicone or other sealant. The black box is the brain of the system. It fails all the time. Most shee owners eliminate them all together.

Long answer for removal

This is a over simplified guide and some mechanical knowledge + common sense must be applied. If you are unsure or need more information after reading thru before starting don’t start. This 1st version as of 5/5/03 is a rough copy and may be updated.


Parts list Stage 1: none!
Parts list Stage 2: TORS removal kit -about $60.00

Tool list Stage 1:
Basic tools req to remove plastic
small slot screwdriver
Very small long Phillips head screw driver if you want to adj needle
1 large can of patients
Stage 2:
Drill motor, 1/8 + 3/8 bits
Dremmil + flat tip bit
Tap T-handle helps but not req
Cutting oil or any oil
2nd large can of patients


TORS removal Procedure Stage 1 Free!:

1st remove the “brain box”, mounted on the frame just above the left carb is a small black box. Unplug it and unscrew from mount. Seal the plug end to the wiring harness w/silicone or electric tape. Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.

2nd remove the parking break sensor. Remove front plastic. Use a small slot screwdriver to depress the clip tab and remove the wire. Follow the wire to the plug by the wiring harness and un plug. Seal the plug end to the wiring harness w/silicone or electric tape. Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.

3rd remove the throttle sensor. Remove front plastic and gas tank. Unscrew 3 phillips screws for the thumb throttle. Remove the wire w/sensor and follow wiring to carb tops and unplug. Seal the throttle casing and plug end’s to the carb’s w/silicone or electric tape. Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.


TORS removal Procedure Stage 2 the kit:

Buy and follow the direction for a TORS removal kit -about $60.00
You should get 2 new carb caps w/adjusters, throttle cable, drill, tap and new idle adjusters.
2 different routs to go: You can bypass the new idle adjusters, drilling and tapping by just using the 2 cable adjustment’s on top of carbs + 1 at throttle OR you can install the side adjusters up to you and how much work you want to do.

Easy route: remove front plastic and gas tank. Remove throttle cover and detach cable. Remove old carb top’s and save springs, slides+ needles. Assemble new cap’s, adjusters, cable and slides and install new top’s on carbs. Route cable to throttle and reattach. Sync slides by using windows in carbs and cable adj on top of carbs. Reinstall everything else and Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.

New side idle adjustment route: remove front plastic and gas tank. Remove throttle cover and detach cable. Remove old carb top’s and save springs, slides+ needles. Drain, remove and disassemble carbs – remove every part you can b/c we will have to clean everthing. The right carb you can hacksaw or grind the part that needs to be tapped+drilled, I like to pilot drill 1st but other wise follow the directions. The left side is harder to get to – I pilot drill the spot to tap 1st then use a large drill bit 3/8 or larger and drill so that the tip goes to the desired finish level and finish w/a flat tip on a dremmil. Then drill and tap as normal. Clean thourghly the entire carb, both of them if you have access to compressed air blow out all passages. Install new idle adjusters and reassemble carbs and reinstall as above. Reinstall everything else and Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.The TORS is the Throttle Override System. It’s mainly the little black box above the left carb, simply unplug it to deactivate it. It is supposed to electronically reduce the throttle if the throttle sticks open but most people remove it because its usually the route of many problem’s.

Quick answer for removal

The black box is just above the left exhaust and is about 1.5"x1" and has a 3-wire plug. Disconnect the plug and find the switch on the handlebars for the parking brake switch and pull it off, follow the wire towards the gas tank and there is a connector or plug. Disconnect it. Also the throttle has a electronic switch and can be removed and sealed w/silicone or other sealant. The black box is the brain of the system. It fails all the time. Most shee owners eliminate them all together.

Long answer for removal

This is a over simplified guide and some mechanical knowledge + common sense must be applied. If you are unsure or need more information after reading thru before starting don’t start. This 1st version as of 5/5/03 is a rough copy and may be updated.


Parts list Stage 1: none!
Parts list Stage 2: TORS removal kit -about $60.00

Tool list Stage 1:
Basic tools req to remove plastic
small slot screwdriver
Very small long Phillips head screw driver if you want to adj needle
1 large can of patients
Stage 2:
Drill motor, 1/8 + 3/8 bits
Dremmil + flat tip bit
Tap T-handle helps but not req
Cutting oil or any oil
2nd large can of patients


TORS removal Procedure Stage 1 Free!:

1st remove the “brain box”, mounted on the frame just above the left carb is a small black box. Unplug it and unscrew from mount. Seal the plug end to the wiring harness w/silicone or electric tape. Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.

2nd remove the parking break sensor. Remove front plastic. Use a small slot screwdriver to depress the clip tab and remove the wire. Follow the wire to the plug by the wiring harness and un plug. Seal the plug end to the wiring harness w/silicone or electric tape. Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.

3rd remove the throttle sensor. Remove front plastic and gas tank. Unscrew 3 phillips screws for the thumb throttle. Remove the wire w/sensor and follow wiring to carb tops and unplug. Seal the throttle casing and plug end’s to the carb’s w/silicone or electric tape. Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.


TORS removal Procedure Stage 2 the kit:

Buy and follow the direction for a TORS removal kit -about $60.00
You should get 2 new carb caps w/adjusters, throttle cable, drill, tap and new idle adjusters.
2 different routs to go: You can bypass the new idle adjusters, drilling and tapping by just using the 2 cable adjustment’s on top of carbs + 1 at throttle OR you can install the side adjusters up to you and how much work you want to do.

Easy route: remove front plastic and gas tank. Remove throttle cover and detach cable. Remove old carb top’s and save springs, slides+ needles. Assemble new cap’s, adjusters, cable and slides and install new top’s on carbs. Route cable to throttle and reattach. Sync slides by using windows in carbs and cable adj on top of carbs. Reinstall everything else and Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.

New side idle adjustment route: remove front plastic and gas tank. Remove throttle cover and detach cable. Remove old carb top’s and save springs, slides+ needles. Drain, remove and disassemble carbs – remove every part you can b/c we will have to clean everthing. The right carb you can hacksaw or grind the part that needs to be tapped+drilled, I like to pilot drill 1st but other wise follow the directions. The left side is harder to get to – I pilot drill the spot to tap 1st then use a large drill bit 3/8 or larger and drill so that the tip goes to the desired finish level and finish w/a flat tip on a dremmil. Then drill and tap as normal. Clean thourghly the entire carb, both of them if you have access to compressed air blow out all passages. Install new idle adjusters and reassemble carbs and reinstall as above. Reinstall everything else and Start banshee and ck for proper throttle operation.
 
The TORS is a system of electrical interlocks. It stops the ignition system from firing if the switches are not kept open/closed in the proper sequence. There's no 'magic' involved here. Cut the connections and remove the control box, and suddely there's no unwanted electrical ground to be made (which will shut off the spark.) So, with the TORS gone, the CDI system can spark away until you manually shut it off.

Unlike you may be wondering, the TORS system does not have anything to do with the carburetor or fuel supply on the engine. It does not shut off the gas in the event of a malfunction, and there is not an electromagnet in that box on top of the carburetor which would mechanically force the throttle slide shut. All it does is make or break spark to the plug by adding or removing an electrical ground to the ignition kill circuit.
 
^^^^ All good, but in a nutshell the TORS can make a myriad of problems which can leave you far out in the woods, all by your self and a long walk home.

Play it safe, remove it.