i got a 06 stock with toomey kit it had no power with the air box cover on. i took it off and now it goes good at top end, i checked to see where the jet needle was set at, it was in the 3rd down i checked my stock blaster and it was the same and i am pretty sure it was never touched,im not sure if i should go up or down on the toomey bike its boggy till past 3/4 throttle? Also I noticed in the float bowl the plastic peace that sits under the main jet isnt there do i need it? and is it recommended to remove it in the toomey kit ? i cant think of why the guy would not use it he did locktite the filter cover on and i had to strip the screws out good thing i wont be needing the cover anymore.
toomey pipe and carb?
- Thread starter jay253
- Start date
stock jetting is 230 if you still have that in there with a a/m pipe and no lid you better stop riding it and get some bigger jets. someplace around a 290-300 with the lid off should do ya, but again you need to do proper plug chops to be certain.
mabey, but doesnt that seem excessive?? i was only at 300 with no lid, good reeds and my power pros. liek i said hes gonna have to do plug chops lol I:I
Toomey says use a 310 and set the needle on the #2 slot from the top. This would lean out the mid (no bog) but keep a strong top.
the plastic thing is to keep the gas from sloshing around, its prolly ok without it but if you get the chance to pick one up you should.
ok thanx i had a extra carb so i put the plastic thing on and put the clip to number 2. i wont be able to test it for awhile as my shin is so bruised i can barely walk i was riding my crf extra slow cause my friend mr. newbie was on my blaster following it was storming and my front tire slid on a slimy ass log hidden by some leaves, foot got crushed too its all green looking now haha. lesson learned this time too just ride and not worry about slow pokes behind you and to use shin guards or mx boots always i got boots but i cant shift or ride good with em . I also got a 03 stocker and the toomey piped bike does have alot more power when its running right
you should check your main jet size and when ur all better do a plug chop see what it says b4 you blow your topend
Toomey Racing USA
B1 BLASTER
RACING PIPE KIT
Installation Instructions
Thank you for your confidence in Toomey Racing USA!
We endeavor to produce products of the highest quality, and functionality. We hope you will be very satisfied with your purchase from Toomey Racing.
If for any reason you are not, we want to hear about it, so please let us know! Some of the best ideas come from customers! Contact our engineers directly by email at tech@toomey.com
This new B1 Racing Pipe Kit is the result of many hours of research and development by our highly knowledgeable Toomey Racing Engineers. Each pipe is hand crafted by our talented in-house craftsmen and women. It is truly a TEAM effort, of which we are all very proud. In keeping with the Toomey Racing USA tradition, this pipe kit is the highest power, finest quality, nicest looking, best fitting Blaster pipe kit on the market.
This B1 pipe kit produces 25% more horsepower than the stock pipe, on a standard engine. As you can see on the dyno chart, the B1 Pipe Kit also produces more power over a wider rpm range than any other pipe on the market. We compare to FMF and ProCircuit because they are the 2 next best pipes on the market.
In addition to the power advantage, you will also realize a 6 pound weight advantage too! That is HALF the weight of the stock system!
Installation Procedure:
To install this pipe kit, you will need the following tools:
*
10mm socket wrench on a long extension to mount the pipe
*
12mm socket wrench to mount the silencer
*
5mm Allen Wrench for the silencer
*
#2 Phillips Screwdriver for the carburetor
*
6mm wrench or socket to change the main jet
*
1" hole saw for your drill motor to install the airbox vents
NOTE: It is possible to remove the stock pipe and install the Toomey Racing B1 pipe kit without removing anything else from the frame, no fender braces or plastic bodywork.
1.
Remove the silencer by removing the two 8mm bolts (12mm head) that mount the silencer to the frame. Pull the silencer from the bike.
2.
Remove the two 12mm nuts from the front of the cylinder exhaust flange. You will re-use these two nuts to mount the Toomey Racing B1 Cylinder pipe flange.
3.
Remove the 6mm bolt (10mm head) at the top of the pipe where it meets the frame mounted rubber mount. You can now remove the pipe.
4.
With some acetone or other similar solvent, carefully clean all around the exhaust port and flange surface. Keep the stock circular exhaust gasket, we use that with our flange.
5.
Place our blue billet flange up on the exhaust port studs, and tighten the two 8mm nuts (12mm hex) to 2.5kgm (18ft-lbs) EVENLY
6.
Hook the two pipe springs in the spring holes in the blue flange and let them hang for now.
7.
From the left side of the bike (as you sit on it) put the B1 pipe on, aiming the stinger tip in first, and slide the pipe up on the cylinder flange, (you may want to rub a little oil on the o-ring in the pipe flange to make it easier to slip up on the cylinder flange) and hook it with the two pipe springs.
8.
Then fasten the pipe to the rubber frame mount using the 6mm hex bolt that held the stock pipe to this mount. Torque = 1.0kgm (8 ft.lbs.)
9.
Mount the long stinger tube to the silencer using the two Stainless 6mm Allen bolts from the silencer. 6mm Allen bolt torque = 1.0kgm (8 ft.lbs.)
Note:
You may want to put a little high temp silicone seal on the mating surfaces of the stinger tube flange and the silencer, for a good seal.
Mount the tube so that the curve goes up, in the same direction as the silencer mount. Tighten to 1.0kgm (8 ft.lbs.) evenly.
10.
Using the included green silicone tube seal, (OR the same rubber seals as the stock pipe), slide the seal over half of the length of the expanded end of the stinger tube, and clamp using the stock pipe seal clamps. Now you can mount the silencer to the pipe, and bolt the silencer rubber mount to the frame using the same 8mm bolt (12mm head) that mounted the stock silencer. Be sure to slide the expanded end of the stinger tube all the way up onto the pipe singer tube, and clamp the other end of the rubber pipe seal tube with the other seal clamp from the stock pipe. Now you can tighten the silencer bolts, The 8mm bolt to 2.5kgm (18ft.lbs.) and the stainless steel Allen bolt to 1.0kgm (8.ft.lbs.) Be careful to not twist the rubber silencer mount here, it will cause it to rip apart.
Jetting:
1. MAIN JET CHANGE: Using the Phillips screw driver, loosen the clamps at the front and back of the carb, the manifold clamp and the airbox boot clamp. Now you can either rotate the carb to expose all of the float bowl screws, or simply remove the carb from the bike and hold it out to the side so that you can work on it. Remove the float bowl, and find the Main Jet, which is the Brass hex shaped jet right in the middle of the carb. Using the 6mm wrench or socket, remove the Main jet and replace it with the included #310 Main jet we supply.
2.
NEEDLE CLIP GROOVE POSITION CHANGE: Remove the Throttle slide from the top of the carb, remove the jet needle, and change the needle clip position to the third groove down from the top (#3) from the #2 (std) position. Replace the needle, slide and tighten the top by hand, gently.
3.
Confirm ALL the carburetor settings as follows:
· Floats are set to the stock specification, 20.5 TO 21.5mm using a depth gauge or the tail end of a measuring caliper.
· Stock pilot jet, #32.5
· Stock Jet Needle #5J22, on the 3rd groove down from the top
· Needle Jet #345 P-6
· Pilot Air Screw ¾ turns out from full in
· Main Jet #310
4.
Replace the float bowl and re-install the carb in the manifold, and airboot, making sure the boot fits all the way around the carb inlet mouth. Tighten the air boot and manifold clamps
5.
Check the routing and connections of the fuel line, and all drain and cable connections and exercise the throttle to make sure of proper operation, before starting.
Ventilate the airbox lid:
Using the one-inch hole saw in your drill, drill 12 one-inch holes in the lid of the airbox, in a nice straight pattern, 6 rows, 2 columns. De-bur the edges of the holes with a knife or de-bur tool, and snap into these holes the 12 Uni-Vents. Replace the stock filter with the included Uni-Filter Element after properly oiling it. Be careful to not over-oil, just a light spray is sufficient.
From all of us at Toomey Racing USA,
Thank you!
B1 BLASTER
RACING PIPE KIT
Installation Instructions
Thank you for your confidence in Toomey Racing USA!
We endeavor to produce products of the highest quality, and functionality. We hope you will be very satisfied with your purchase from Toomey Racing.
If for any reason you are not, we want to hear about it, so please let us know! Some of the best ideas come from customers! Contact our engineers directly by email at tech@toomey.com
This new B1 Racing Pipe Kit is the result of many hours of research and development by our highly knowledgeable Toomey Racing Engineers. Each pipe is hand crafted by our talented in-house craftsmen and women. It is truly a TEAM effort, of which we are all very proud. In keeping with the Toomey Racing USA tradition, this pipe kit is the highest power, finest quality, nicest looking, best fitting Blaster pipe kit on the market.
This B1 pipe kit produces 25% more horsepower than the stock pipe, on a standard engine. As you can see on the dyno chart, the B1 Pipe Kit also produces more power over a wider rpm range than any other pipe on the market. We compare to FMF and ProCircuit because they are the 2 next best pipes on the market.
In addition to the power advantage, you will also realize a 6 pound weight advantage too! That is HALF the weight of the stock system!
Installation Procedure:
To install this pipe kit, you will need the following tools:
*
10mm socket wrench on a long extension to mount the pipe
*
12mm socket wrench to mount the silencer
*
5mm Allen Wrench for the silencer
*
#2 Phillips Screwdriver for the carburetor
*
6mm wrench or socket to change the main jet
*
1" hole saw for your drill motor to install the airbox vents
NOTE: It is possible to remove the stock pipe and install the Toomey Racing B1 pipe kit without removing anything else from the frame, no fender braces or plastic bodywork.
1.
Remove the silencer by removing the two 8mm bolts (12mm head) that mount the silencer to the frame. Pull the silencer from the bike.
2.
Remove the two 12mm nuts from the front of the cylinder exhaust flange. You will re-use these two nuts to mount the Toomey Racing B1 Cylinder pipe flange.
3.
Remove the 6mm bolt (10mm head) at the top of the pipe where it meets the frame mounted rubber mount. You can now remove the pipe.
4.
With some acetone or other similar solvent, carefully clean all around the exhaust port and flange surface. Keep the stock circular exhaust gasket, we use that with our flange.
5.
Place our blue billet flange up on the exhaust port studs, and tighten the two 8mm nuts (12mm hex) to 2.5kgm (18ft-lbs) EVENLY
6.
Hook the two pipe springs in the spring holes in the blue flange and let them hang for now.
7.
From the left side of the bike (as you sit on it) put the B1 pipe on, aiming the stinger tip in first, and slide the pipe up on the cylinder flange, (you may want to rub a little oil on the o-ring in the pipe flange to make it easier to slip up on the cylinder flange) and hook it with the two pipe springs.
8.
Then fasten the pipe to the rubber frame mount using the 6mm hex bolt that held the stock pipe to this mount. Torque = 1.0kgm (8 ft.lbs.)
9.
Mount the long stinger tube to the silencer using the two Stainless 6mm Allen bolts from the silencer. 6mm Allen bolt torque = 1.0kgm (8 ft.lbs.)
Note:
You may want to put a little high temp silicone seal on the mating surfaces of the stinger tube flange and the silencer, for a good seal.
Mount the tube so that the curve goes up, in the same direction as the silencer mount. Tighten to 1.0kgm (8 ft.lbs.) evenly.
10.
Using the included green silicone tube seal, (OR the same rubber seals as the stock pipe), slide the seal over half of the length of the expanded end of the stinger tube, and clamp using the stock pipe seal clamps. Now you can mount the silencer to the pipe, and bolt the silencer rubber mount to the frame using the same 8mm bolt (12mm head) that mounted the stock silencer. Be sure to slide the expanded end of the stinger tube all the way up onto the pipe singer tube, and clamp the other end of the rubber pipe seal tube with the other seal clamp from the stock pipe. Now you can tighten the silencer bolts, The 8mm bolt to 2.5kgm (18ft.lbs.) and the stainless steel Allen bolt to 1.0kgm (8.ft.lbs.) Be careful to not twist the rubber silencer mount here, it will cause it to rip apart.
Jetting:
1. MAIN JET CHANGE: Using the Phillips screw driver, loosen the clamps at the front and back of the carb, the manifold clamp and the airbox boot clamp. Now you can either rotate the carb to expose all of the float bowl screws, or simply remove the carb from the bike and hold it out to the side so that you can work on it. Remove the float bowl, and find the Main Jet, which is the Brass hex shaped jet right in the middle of the carb. Using the 6mm wrench or socket, remove the Main jet and replace it with the included #310 Main jet we supply.
2.
NEEDLE CLIP GROOVE POSITION CHANGE: Remove the Throttle slide from the top of the carb, remove the jet needle, and change the needle clip position to the third groove down from the top (#3) from the #2 (std) position. Replace the needle, slide and tighten the top by hand, gently.
3.
Confirm ALL the carburetor settings as follows:
· Floats are set to the stock specification, 20.5 TO 21.5mm using a depth gauge or the tail end of a measuring caliper.
· Stock pilot jet, #32.5
· Stock Jet Needle #5J22, on the 3rd groove down from the top
· Needle Jet #345 P-6
· Pilot Air Screw ¾ turns out from full in
· Main Jet #310
4.
Replace the float bowl and re-install the carb in the manifold, and airboot, making sure the boot fits all the way around the carb inlet mouth. Tighten the air boot and manifold clamps
5.
Check the routing and connections of the fuel line, and all drain and cable connections and exercise the throttle to make sure of proper operation, before starting.
Ventilate the airbox lid:
Using the one-inch hole saw in your drill, drill 12 one-inch holes in the lid of the airbox, in a nice straight pattern, 6 rows, 2 columns. De-bur the edges of the holes with a knife or de-bur tool, and snap into these holes the 12 Uni-Vents. Replace the stock filter with the included Uni-Filter Element after properly oiling it. Be careful to not over-oil, just a light spray is sufficient.
From all of us at Toomey Racing USA,
Thank you!
the trick to ridin with mx boots is never ride with anything else and you won't know the difference.
my shin is still messed up just from two scrapes the side of my leg is swolen up and red lookin. never happened before from similar damage no health care so i gotta wait it out and hope its not mersa or something, my friend got that from the skate park he felt fine but his knee was messed up and it took lotsa shots. I got fly mx boots but i got skinny ankles with big feet i guess because my leg slides back n forth in the boot, the sole is really slippery too i wouldnt recommend them for rocky areas
i went to wilkeson today and rode the quaud at times it was acting like it was to rich again in the top end all i did was clean it check that the needle was in 3rd slot the air screw is 1and1/2 out, it would get choppy sounding instead of reveing up. it was hot today and i met some new riders some road worker dudes on 450rs we had allot of beers and went on some tuff narrow trails we all had dented rims by the end and one guy with a suzuki ltr, i had to help allot of times maybe he was a beginner or just tired. hurt my wrist a few times from bumpin into stumps would elkas or bar risers help with this thanx
Well, not bumpin into stumps would be the key, lol. If you want to try and lessen the side to side kick of the handlebars being jerked out of your hands, then get a steering stabilizer. It's like shocks for your handlebars.
Anti-vibe risers and shock absorbing bars help with forward/rear impacts and general vibration.
Anti-vibe risers and shock absorbing bars help with forward/rear impacts and general vibration.
