How do you monitor the oil level in the case? I dug around and found out its 650ml, but I'm so used to my ltr450 that my new 94 blaster is making me scratch my head. How often do you add/change oil in the crank case. I'm so used to checking the a dipstick I need some pointers on how often to change and how to monitor its level. Bike was built to a 240cc and rejetted, and previous owner said he ran between 32:1 and 40:1. That sound about right? Oil auto Inject is removed so I'm premixing yamalube with 91. It has fmf powercore2 and an aftermarket header also fmf i believe. Thanks for any help. This 2 stroke stuff is awesome but it's a challenge coming from 4 strokes.
This may be a dumb question but...
- Thread starter mopar04
- Start date
yes 32-1 is a good ratio to run. ive never ran a castrol 2stroke oil, im in love with maxima super m
i use super m too , its great , doesn't seem to smoke like other pre-mixes do . i dunno what was in my banshee when I bought it , I ran it awhile then drained the rest and put in super m and same thing as the blasty , huge difference
never heard of that? why do you love it??
lol because i ride my blasty hard and race it whenever i get a chance but yet last time i pulled the topend the piston and cylinder looked awesome, practically brand new. I:I I:I
ok it must be synthetic oil then just like castrol rs burns very good just what a 2 stroke needs to do burn everything as much as posibleI:I
Some guys change their oil like every ride, but personally I don't see a problem with evry 10-20 hours or so. It is only used in the trans and clutch, not for general engine lubrication. 10-30w motor oil is fine, but you can spend $10 a quart on Bel-Ray Gear Saver, etc if you like.
Download the manual, it's free.
www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
Download the manual, it's free.
www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
One other thing that I noticed is a fairly constant ticking sound coming from the top end, it sounds like maybe I'm hearing the valve clicking open and closed in the head. Is this just how 2 strokes sound? I've read some other threads and I don't think it's piston slap (I'm hoping it was rebuilt right since the guy who owned it was head mechanic at a yamaha dealer) or predetonation.
no valves in head, so that isn't what you are hearing.
2-strokes do have a ticking sounding exhaust which is normal.
but to be safe do a compression test.
Predetonation is a problem that generally occurs in the high heat with the engine warmed completely up and throttle trims between 1/2 and 3/4. WOT is generally jetted rich enough not to have that problem and it shouldn't be happening at an idle either...
Aircooled 2 strokes are all noisy. But, most of the time aircooled 2 strokes are either swinging along too loud to tell (leafblower or weedeater) or they're small enough not to make too much noise anyway (R/C airplane engine).
Engine oil in a 4 stroke engine gets nasty not because it's being pushed all around the engine but because of blow-by and combustion by-products. The gearbox on a 2 stroke engine doesn't have either one of those (and a lot less heat too) so the thermal breakdown is less intense. The one thing you do want to keep from doing is running it so long that fiber material gets packed inside of roller bearings or the steels. As long as you change it soon enough to keep that from happening you should be good to go. I use transmission fluid in my gearbox so I have an idea when it's getting cruddy. The transmission fluid starts out a nice bright pink color but when a small amount of fiber material gets in it, it quickly darkens. I've got about 15 hours out a transmission fluid flush. Slightly less than royalt's estimate but not far off. I have about 50 hours on my rebuild now and have changed it like three times. Each time the fluid comes out looking a little junky but not having lost it's ability to lubricate...
Aircooled 2 strokes are all noisy. But, most of the time aircooled 2 strokes are either swinging along too loud to tell (leafblower or weedeater) or they're small enough not to make too much noise anyway (R/C airplane engine).
Engine oil in a 4 stroke engine gets nasty not because it's being pushed all around the engine but because of blow-by and combustion by-products. The gearbox on a 2 stroke engine doesn't have either one of those (and a lot less heat too) so the thermal breakdown is less intense. The one thing you do want to keep from doing is running it so long that fiber material gets packed inside of roller bearings or the steels. As long as you change it soon enough to keep that from happening you should be good to go. I use transmission fluid in my gearbox so I have an idea when it's getting cruddy. The transmission fluid starts out a nice bright pink color but when a small amount of fiber material gets in it, it quickly darkens. I've got about 15 hours out a transmission fluid flush. Slightly less than royalt's estimate but not far off. I have about 50 hours on my rebuild now and have changed it like three times. Each time the fluid comes out looking a little junky but not having lost it's ability to lubricate...
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Exactly, combustion by-products are not a problem (mostly) for 2-strokes. Listen to what i meant, not what I said. lol
That makes sense. I finally get to take the blaster out for a full ride tomorrow, I'm anxious to see how it runs on the open trails. I've only been able to sneak some rides up and down the street so far. I've ridden a bone stock blaster before but just from my short rides I can tell the power and powerband on this modded one is much different. Going to be intereting to see how well my fiancé on the blaster can keep up with me on my LTR at Pismo. The LTR has more power but she and the blaster weigh 200lbs less than me on the LTR.
