stroker crank

[randelator]

ok i just try to get some discution going around here,so here is the question,tell me wath you think is the best stroker crank +4mm or +3mm or stock 57mm,and tell my why or tell me story about it (horror or good) story and tell me wich company make the best crank!!! thats should get a good discussion going!!!!

 

[B14573r]

i was wonderint hte same question, but im pretty sure none of the stroker cranks are good without the ports being opened for the new crank

 

[randelator]

i was wonderint hte same question, but im pretty sure none of the stroker cranks are good without the ports being opened for the new crank

ok stroker crank ,i am going to explane something to ya ,stroker crank is a verry good choice even for stock engine ,it raise your cc(ex.if you got a stock piston you get 207cc and a lots more torque and hp +4 hp) thats is on stock cylinder with stock piston,and a stroker crank help the life of your engine...why you may ask...
a stroker crank as less rotation to do the job,it trick your intake timing and exaust timing to a longer duration(more power) and by having less rotation to do the job you got less heat (better for your engine) and 1 more thing when choosing a new crank even if its a stock lenght(57mm) try to get one with stuffer insert,why because it get your crank chamber smaller (less heat and 20%better trothle response) hope this whill answer some of your question ,feel free to add to my description and to tell me if i am wrong!!!

 

[Oldfart1stATV]

Yup

I agree with all of the above!! I bought a Hot Rods +4mm, when I get her together I'll let you know!! By looks and feel, it's a good unit.

A

 

[randelator]

I agree with all of the above!! I bought a Hot Rods +4mm, when I get her together I'll let you know!! By looks and feel, it's a good unit.

A

yeah hot rod are one of the best choice available,but..if i recall they dont have stuffer insert wich is bad!!

 

[B14573r]

does a +4 bolt right in?

 

[randelator]

does a +4 bolt right in?

nop a +3 bolth right in but +4 yo need to machine the casing!!

 

[B14573r]

wat do u think of the +3 stroker crank on vitos

 

[randelator]

great stuff, i am not a fan of vito's stuff but their crank are verry verry great i got couples of friend thats got the vito's +3 ceank and they just love it!!

 

[Oldfart1stATV]

You sure about that?

I think I have to mill 2mm off/out of the head. I don't believe I have do anything to the case with the Hot Rods, I'll have to check to be sure.

I suppose that may be a pretty dam good thing to know, huh?

A

BTW, this about my Hot Rods +4mm stroker in a Vito's 240 kit, just for folks that aren't familiar with what I am doing.
The head appears to be identical in clearence, though I won't bet on that. Just from quickie research when I was looking into how hard it would be to bump her up to a 250.

 

[randelator]

for hot rod you have to re do the chamber in the head and grind a little in the crank case bottom for rod clearance!!!

 

[B14573r]

what exactly does rechambering mean?

 

[Oldfart1stATV]

You need to allow for the piston to come up more, so you need to remove some material from the head.
oh yea and the case would be:
The eccentric orbit of the crank is larger on the stroker so the case would have to allow for it's increase.

I was not under the impression this was the scenario with this Hot Rods +4. I'll dam skippy be measuring that, though!!

Thanks for the heads up!

A

 

[randelator]

yeah!!!

 

[B14573r]

from head do u mean from the dome?

 

[randelator]

mostely outside the dome but inside too

 

[Oldfart1stATV]

YUP

The piston is traveling farther. You need to make room for it. The head, if you were looking down at the inside need to be wider and deeper.

Wider= only enough to mate up and allow the piston to free travel.

Deeper is the fun part. You want as little room in there as you can have AND allow free travel. So the head needs to get some material removed to let the piston come up to TDC and not touch anything. Anymore and you leave muleys on the table, any less and bang she hits and dies, violently.

Anyway, my 2 bits.

Everything you have read here is true. It only touches what is really going on though. $160 vs. you and a Dremel and not knowing how everything works, I'd go for the $160 everytime.

You botch this and it all goes bad.

A

 

[randelator]

The piston is traveling farther. You need to make room for it. The head, if you were looking down at the inside need to be wider and deeper.

Wider= only enough to mate up and allow the piston to free travel.

Deeper is the fun part. You want as little room in there as you can have AND allow free travel. So the head needs to get some material removed to let the piston come up to TDC and not touch anything. Anymore and you leave muleys on the table, any less and bang she hits and dies, violently.

Anyway, my 2 bits.

Everything you have read here is true. It only touches what is really going on though. $160 vs. you and a Dremel and not knowing how everything works, I'd go for the $160 everytime.

You botch this and it all goes bad.

A

i totally agree,but there is a solution thats work real good,i know cause thats wath i do on my 4 mm stroker ,see with a stroker crank you got a stroker plate and 2 gasket(one for thr crank case than you put the stroker plate and you put the last gasket and the cylinder) here is the solution and it work like a charm!!! you go to your local yamaha stealership and buy 3 base gasket ,fiest of all yamaha gasket are thicker and better than the gasket you will get with your crank so you put one one the crancase side than the stroker plate than an other gasket ...and here is the tricky parts you take the last gasket and spread it in 2 take half of it and put it on top of the other one ,and you put the cylinder and voiala no mod require for the head just mod the crank case!!!

 

[B14573r]

wow thats a good idea, is that for +4 or +3?

 

[randelator]

for +4 cause +3 need no mod at all!!