stroker crank

Amen, dude!!!

First to B14573r:
They would have diff. depths. The 4mm, I know won't fit as a drop in, so that is what we are talking about here. the 3mm is a mystery to me as I can't find anything that says it needs any mods to fit. So you need 2mm off for a 4mm and nothing for a 3? I dunno, I bought a 4 and will tell you all about it!

Brother R:
Yep, You can work her like that. I'm not a fan of gasket on gasket seals. I know you are right in the way that works. I have been batting around how to get around it.

What he is saying is he lifts the cyl. off the lower cases by a couple gasket widths. This seperates the crank center from the TDC position. It is a VERY economical way of doing it.

I think I am just going to mill the head. I have a mill/lathe. Even if I didn't *** for those that don't*** I would have the machining done. You can step up and get a sweet port job done for not much more money. That is probably the best money you will spend. You then are into having to buy stock gaskets and supplies rather than working a couple gaskets to seal. Another option, while not real good is a custom plate with a gasket on each side that is the proper thickness.

I have alot of measuring and a fitting to do. I also think I am about 50/50 on sending the head and cyl. off to get done. By the time I set up and do all the cuts and clean and polish, I pissed away a weekend. My weekends are a pretty dam valuable, there is something to be said for going out and riding, laying around naked watching Hockey or just catching up on other sh*t. Milling a head is work and is work I ain't getting paid for except for the final product. So in my case a couple hundred beans to get the top end tweaked may be worth it.

Pitboss, you listening?
Anyway, my way is not the best way, it's my way.

I have certain skills and assets and do what makes good sense to me. Ain't always the best sense.

R,
what you think about tigging a solid bead around the base of the cyl and then mill her down to take up the space? That was my first thought. I have a tig, mill, it's only a matter of time, tungsten and argon and some aluminum. My issue is I'd rather send it to someone that's done it a few dozen times. I just think it's more cost effective and I am learning on the job.

Anyway, pipe up all, lemme know what you think and have done.

A
 
your solution is a good one adding material is verry clever,my way of doing-it is thats if i want to sale the blaster i can put her in stock trimm in a matter of hour and keep my performance parts cause evrybody know it aint worth saling the stuff on the quad you never get your money back so better keep it in a box and who knowes in coupple of year you may end up buying a another one,and i been doing my gasket thing since i bought her new in 03 and never ad a trouble but like you said there is diff way of doing it !!!!
 
Hmmm dam...

Very good point. That cyl. is only for that set up. Not that resale is on my list, but, that's a dam good point. Without a marking or something the next guy has no clue.

I kinda had that issue with Vito's cyl. She is marked like stock bore 195cc or whatever. That's not right for a selling issue.
Very good point my friend, I wil have to contemplate on that.

Thanks!!

A
 
how much of a gain is a -- +3 vs. +4? (would it be worth it to go +3 for the money or just go +4?) --- these are just questions for you guys to explain out to people ..i already stuck a hotrod +4 in a little bit ago...
 
so i might buy an engine from a thread on here with a hot rod +4mm crank and a wiseco piston. i aksed him if it ran good. he said it ran fine. but i cant trust anyone, anymore. should i believe him or not cause from wut i read about these +4mm cranks it seems like it is a very hard to install. he only said he had an our on his engine. also he wants a good 500 for it is this a good price
 
Sheeeit

I can't tell you what to do. For that money you need to be sure it works! If it ain't stock and running, you need to know what the f*ck is up. If you don't, bend over, grease up and wait for them to throw sand and pound you.
The best thing is to know what's up.

I can't help you with the info you have.

A
 
on vitos, it said hand grinding might be required, wat does this mean,sry for all the noob questons
 
hand grinding is may be require for final adjustement for+3 and you need to remove like 2mm in the bottom of the crank-case for the rod clearance in the +4
 
how much of a gain is a -- +3 vs. +4? (would it be worth it to go +3 for the money or just go +4?) --- these are just questions for you guys to explain out to people ..i already stuck a hotrod +4 in a little bit ago...

ok,+3 you got 207cc and about 4hp more
+4 is 209cc and around 6to7hp more

+3 is bolt on about no modification or verry few
+4is not a bolt on parts,you need head and crank case modification

ok,well for average people there is not much of a differance ,but when you did almost evrething to a engine the last hp you can found,are importantso a little work inside the engine is worth -it but for most people i say take a +3 and you will be happy!!!
 
o sorry i wasnt reading right, hand grind with an electric grinder or with a file?
 
ight when i get it, which isnt untill i blow my top end, i will have my uncle do it
 
i just got my hot rods +4mm back from ecatv it is great. im running 165psi right now and +2.5 degree timing to start. after break in we are going for 175psi with 4+ degree of advance. the only real way i think to start considering a storker is if you are rebuilding everything and goin big. my full port and polish with milled head got me by for a long time. i've run hot rod cranks for a long time and never had a problem. my motor has a double thick base gasket for clearence. the exhaust port was modified for the different stroke, the cases were moded for clearence.