i think my reed mounting holes are stripped. they get pretty tight but will just keep spinning. its not leaking, is this normal?
stripped
- Thread starter blasterkid1994
- Start date
No that is not normal. How tight are you tightening them? They need to be drilled and tapped to the next size.
yea im going to fix it. what would be the next size up without the risk of busting through the side
that happened to me, then it turned out i was using the wrong size screws, use the exact same screws in the exact same holes they were in
The best way to fix the mounting holes is going to be a Helicoil (also called Fix-a-Thread) kit. You'll need an M6 kit for the reed cage bolts if I remember correctly. You simply use the supplied bit to drill the holes oversize. Then you re-tap them with the supplied tap, and install a new thread insert from the kit into the fresh hole. Its an easy fix, and the repaired threads are nearly as strong as if they were never stripped. Plus, using a Helicoil kit allows you to re-use your factory reed cage bolts as long as their threads are still good.
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Go to harbor freight and buy a tap and die set. When you get it you can determine the size of the hole. Then you go up one size. The kit will have drill bits in it. Take the one size up drill bit and carefully drill the holes out. Then grab the tap you will need. Spray wd40 on the tap and wind it in the hole straight. Done deal now you have new threads. Just need to pick up some bigger bolts.
Yup, that's it!
Drilling the holes oversize doesn't hurt anything either, but the fix-a-thread kit is faster and more conveinent IMO. I've repaired hundreds of threads with these kits at work and have never had a problem.
Just work slow putting it in, so you don't accidentally cross-thread the new insert.
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Well, I'm no expert on the subject, but I've fixed enough stripped bolt holes with them that I can say they do work and do hold up well. I even use a version of this thread repair kit to fix stripped spark plug holes on weedeaters and blowers.
Like I said, just be very careful when installing the new thread insert. Keep constant pressure on the installation tool when screwing in the thread insert to keep it going in straight.
Like I said, just be very careful when installing the new thread insert. Keep constant pressure on the installation tool when screwing in the thread insert to keep it going in straight.
This just happend to me. I drilled out the holes to M7(which is a 15/64 drill bit) and used my M7x1.00 tap and picked up 4- M7x1.00 bolts/washers. Drilled out my vforce3's a little bigger and used a normal hole punch for make the gasket holes a touch bigger. I have never used a helicoil before and have heard mixed things about them but I guess these bolts are only torqued to 5.8ft-lbs/70in-lbs so it might hold up.
For the drill bit and 4 bolts/washers it cost me $5 and about a half hour of my time. Just go slow with the tap at quarter turns and use some oil.
Just another suggestion.
Nick
For the drill bit and 4 bolts/washers it cost me $5 and about a half hour of my time. Just go slow with the tap at quarter turns and use some oil.
Just another suggestion.
Nick
When tapping a thread one screws the tap in 3/4 of a revolution and then backs off at least 1/3 of a revolution to cut off the swarf that the tap has cut from the hole.
This is important to make sure the tap does not bind and cut oversize, it also helps prevent ragged threads.
The recomended lubricant for aluminium is methyolated spirit, and please bear in mind WD40 is not designed for cutting purposes, water does a better job.
This is important to make sure the tap does not bind and cut oversize, it also helps prevent ragged threads.
The recomended lubricant for aluminium is methyolated spirit, and please bear in mind WD40 is not designed for cutting purposes, water does a better job.
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