spits/sputters/hesitates

[paulrizik04]

i have a 1995 blaster. everything is stock. cylender bore is .60 over.

problem

my blaster seems to run pretty good when idleing. under half thottle it spits/sputters/hesitates and full throttle is no different.

only other problem i see is it sometimes drips gas out of carb at the very bottom hose. i have added a fuel filter because i thought maybe dirt or something was getting under float and causeing it to not shut when bowl was full of gas. i have rebuild carb and nothing seemed bad except i did have dirt under the float. cleaned it and still over flows. i have (i think air/fuel mixture screw on left side of carb when itsalled on bike) screw 1 and 1/2 turn out jsut like my manual says. i have done plug chops and seem to always get oily plug. but bike almost seems like its not getting enough gas or something causeing the spits/sputters/hesitates. not sure.

top end was done and with less then 5 hours on it. i did all of the break in stuff according to the book. i have 110 - 120 psi with my leak down tester. and i did that according to the directions.

i have redone most of my grounds. and plug produces good spark. could be better.

when i rebuilt top end i used brand new wisco everything except gaskets.

wheni first got the bike it ran ok. piston and rings where not broke in properly but produced enough compression to run. and out of the blue the motor stopped running. and when i kicked it to start it it wouldnt start and didnt seem like it was gonna. well i thought it was done for and rebuilt top end and still nothing. eventually figured out i sheared off my flywheel key. fixed it 2 times now and this last key is holding up. i check it often. the problem with that is i didnt get the flywheel nut tight enough. i have now. so that didnt fix my problem either.

i have adjsuted my float so many times now and its right on according to my manual. but it still floods. that is why i added the fuel filter.

im goin to change my air filter and see that fixes my spits/sputters/hesitates problem.

any help with the over flowing carb
or
spits/sputters/hesitate prob let me kno.

 

[Blaaster]

If the float level is right, replace the needle and seat!

Or at least the needle, the rubber tip may be damaged and allowing fuel to flow even with the float in the upper position.

 

[paulrizik04]

the needle and seat are new from carb rebuild when i rebuilt the top end. i didnt notice any rubber tip on the needle tho.

i thought it might have been overflowing because i might have had dirt or something in my gas and maybe it got lodged under float plunger or whatever its called.

i have added a fuel filter but seems it slows fuel flow and starves bike. gas flow is by gravity right? because im kinda confused cause i kept having this problem and read that u can turn the petcock off and run bike out of gas in carb and in theory the float goes all the way down and opens a hole and when u turn petcock on it is supposed to wash out whatever might have been blockin the float open.

well if its gravity fed then why when i have the bike running and turn the petcock off the bike continues to run. and not for 5 minutes much longer. it almost seems liek there might be a draw from the carb that is pullin fuel from the tank if that is even possible

the overflowing doesnt seem to hurt the bike to bad but does bog a bit sometimes. seems to run and idle better with choke on. im thinking about moving needle down one notch (richer) cause the bike seemed to run a bit better before. never did plug chop for this tho.

plug always comes out oily and i figure it was cause the overflowing carb. but after messing with new batch of 32:1 fuel and after i removed the head and looked good and clean new and shiny

after back togetther with good gas i got my first good/ok plug chop and it was oily tan/brown


how can i show pics and possibly video so u can hear how it sounds.

 

[Blaner]

sounds like you are too rich, quite honestly, i didnt read all of your post, but i saw you getting oily plugs? and the bike is spluttering...you toooo rich! what size main jet do you have? and what mods do you have? porting etc?

 

[paulrizik04]

bike is entirely stock. well i replaced reeds with new boysen power reeds but everything else is stock. and twin air air filter.

my carb jetting is

main jet is 230
needle is on middle mark (there are 5)
air jet is 32.5 i think

i am pretty sure these are all stock sizes

i dont kno if the plug is oily from carb ovrflowing and causeing it to run to rich or if i need to adjsut jetting. before it seemed the bike ran better with needle jet was raised (richer mid thottle rihgt?)

someone said something about "choke valve assembly or check valve assembly" but dont know what that means. looked through my manual but nothing

 

[paulrizik04]

how can i show pics and possibly video so u can hear how it sounds.

i figured it out...

 

[Blaaster]

If the carby is flooding, something is wrong! Is the carby located in the rubber boot correctly, and not leaning over to one side.

If the carb is flooding all the time you will run rich and get wet plugs.

220 is stock main jet according to my manual, maybe its been bumped up because of the air filter. Describe the filter and where it is it may need a bigger jet to compensate..

Choke circuit is shown on an exploded diag in section 5 page 1-2

What oil do you have in the tank?

 

[Blaner]

thise are stock jets, so that cant be your problem, you need to check your float level to see why it is overflowing.

Take off the carb, fir a piece ir rubber hose onto the fuel inlet pipe. take the bowl off the carb. hole the carb in the upright (running) position and blow gently on the end of the hose, while you do that, gentle lift the black plastic float, see if it seals and stops you blowing air thru when the float reaches the top of its travel.

If the float bottoms out, but you can still blow air in, adjust the little metal tang between the 2 "balls" of the plastic float so that it seals early. keep doing this till the needle and seat seal a few mm before you run out of travel.

 

[Blaaster]

You said everything is stock, yet you are mixing 32:1.

Do you have an oil tank and do you put oil in it. What oil are you using?

 

[Blaner]

mmm i see your thought here Blaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaster...perhaps too much oil? doubley mixed?

 

[Blaaster]

Confusing problem, should be running rich due to flooding, yet performs better when choke is on and the needle richened which confirms that it is lean.

Double oil would make the plug foul and methinks lean out the fuel air mix some.

Plug chop of an oily tan/brown ?????????

Post a simple list of all the problems and how many mod have been done.

Please answer all question asked in previous posts to the best of your ability.

 

[Blaner]

you are right blaaster, by adding more oil you leave less "space" per unit volume of actual fuel. making the bike lean on fuel but rich on oil.

 

[Blaaster]

I run a heavy oil laden castor mix and find that the difference can sometimes be as much a two sizes richer.

 

[paulrizik04]

Blaaster said "If the carby is flooding, something is wrong! Is the carby located in the rubber boot correctly, and not leaning over to one side.

If the carb is flooding all the time you will run rich and get wet plugs.

220 is stock main jet according to my manual, maybe its been bumped up because of the air filter. Describe the filter and where it is it may need a bigger jet to compensate..

Choke circuit is shown on an exploded diag in section 5 page 1-2

What oil do you have in the tank? "

100 pecent positve carb is it boot correctly and doesnt lean.


230 is stock for my 1995 blaster according to clymer service manuel. previous air filter was a rats nest literally and ran ok when i bought it. now it has a twin air air fliter on with air filter oil from K & N and it run ok. i have a 1977 it 250 and recently used a uni air filter for it and it seemed to fit nicely on the bike and works well. the twin air air filter almost looked small on the bracket that screws in and holds filter on. the air filter is under the seat and under a lid and is its stock plastic box-like area.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You said everything is stock, yet you are mixing 32:1.

Do you have an oil tank and do you put oil in it. What oil are you using?


i did forget to mention the oil pump has be disabled and the oil is only mixed in the gas 32:1. this was done before i got the bike. i know the previous 2 owners being my cousin the first owner and the one who disabled it and ran same mix with highest grade gas station pump gas. and next owner was my aunt and she mixed same and now i got it and was instructed dilently by them to mix the same. so i have. and got the mixing cup so i cant be wrong there. the gas is mixed when i get the gas at the station but only put in what i was planning on running for that day when bike ran good. and did that only thought if i filled tank up maybe after sitting til the next time i start it maybe the gas and oil seperated causing it to go lean or rich.

and i use yamalube 2R 2 stroke oil.



Blaaster saidConfusing problem, should be running rich due to flooding, yet performs better when choke is on and the needle richened which confirms that it is lean.

Double oil would make the plug foul and methinks lean out the fuel air mix some.

Plug chop of an oily tan/brown ?????????

Post a simple list of all the problems and how many mod have been done.

Please answer all question asked in previous posts to the best of your ability.


no oil injection (noted above). and before it ran better which the jet needle richened 1 notch. i only changed everything in the carb abck to stock becasue i couldnt figure out the flooding carb problem and the crazy hesitation under jsut more the 1/4 throttle and everything thing after that it would very slowly accelerate but would almost throw me of the bike because it would accelerate very fast and good 1st gear and 1/4 which seems like the bike would easily stand up if it did accelerate more then 1/4 then it spits/sputters/hesitates and deccelerates very fast and i fly forward then if i maintain continueous 1/4 it will accelerate almost lifing front end and repeat the same process over and over. i dont like to run it long when it is running like this becasue it seems the bike is getting very hot. i may have mentioned this before but the bike starts and idles great. and i always let bike idle 10 minutes or so before i ride it anywhere.

i want to also add that when my aunt had the bike she had it rebuilt and had some other maintaince work done and the bike ran well. here is the kicker she and many others have told me after all this work that bike would stand almost everytime until 3rd gear. the bike is stock and was .40 over when she got the work done. i dont beleve any one of then becuase when i got the bike from her it never had that kind of power. and when my cousin the first owner of the bike had it and i rode it all the time and never ever stode up on me ever. and he swore up and down it did and would when he had it.

so i have no idea if the bike will or wont stand up but it does feel as if i got this spits/sputters/hesitateion prob gone it jsut might stand.

but other then the

reeds - boysen power reeds
piston rings wrist pin circlips and bearing was all wisco and piston is .60 over right now.
oil injection removed long ago mix 32:1 yamalube 2R 2 stoke oil
twin air air filter which i dont like and might jsut change to uni air filter for the hell of it
tors is removed but not the piece ontop of the carb where the idle adjustment is.
back brakes are removed entirely. the foot pedal and spring is still there.


Blaaster saidI run a heavy oil laden castor mix and find that the difference can sometimes be as much a two sizes richer.

i think i might already be to rich.


Blaner saidthise are stock jets, so that cant be your problem, you need to check your float level to see why it is overflowing.

Take off the carb, fir a piece ir rubber hose onto the fuel inlet pipe. take the bowl off the carb. hole the carb in the upright (running) position and blow gently on the end of the hose, while you do that, gentle lift the black plastic float, see if it seals and stops you blowing air thru when the float reaches the top of its travel.

If the float bottoms out, but you can still blow air in, adjust the little metal tang between the 2 "balls" of the plastic float so that it seals early. keep doing this till the needle and seat seal a few mm before you run out of travel.


im going to try this.



thanks Blaner and Blaaster for your help with my blaster. i hope it has the power they all boasted about. i jsut have never seen it. and she(my aunt) even said when she first got it from my cousin it WOULD NOT LIFT ITS FRONT END.

i will report back with any new info and if it possibly fixes my problem.

 

[Blaaster]

Thanks for your efforts with all the info.

Get the fuel flow and the float shut off problem solved.

If it is working well up to 1/4 throttle then the prob points to the needle and main.

You state it gets really hot, that's usually caused by a lean condition.
Maybe that twin air filter is breathing better than can be anticipated.

The way I would safely approach this problem is to lift the needle one notch, maybe two, and bump up the main to 250, 260. The raising of the needle should improve up to 3/4 throttle, then the main take over at WOT.

Couple more things, put in a new B8ES plug. and don't let the bike sit idling for such a long time, could cause plug fouling, and when you give it the gas it may break down causing misfire.

The motor should be up to riding temp within about a minute of idling and blipping of the throttle to purge out excessive oil built up in the crankcase.

Always over jet when testing, if it don't work you are on the safe side and can always come back.

 

[Blaner]

good report back...thats what we talking about! an A-Grade response

Other things to try once your float is set:

1.)Have you performed a leak test on this bike? if not, id STRONGLY suggest it.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

2.)change the spark plug, what is your current ones code?

3.) give the electrics a once over, inspect all plugs, (TORS grey plug@ carb and micro switch at throttle housing NB) make sure the are all functioning. Use a multimeter if you know what you are doing or get a buddy who is into electronics etc to help!

4.) whip off your flywheel and stator plate. Inspect the pickups, check for corrosion of magnets in the flywheel etc. Also check the woodruff key, make sure its not sheared. You will need a puller to get the flywheel off.

6.)Inspect/swap the CDI, they seldom give trouble but does happen.

 

[Blaner]

Read my first post in this thread: http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/oko-no-go-41056/ particularly, lines 3-6. does this sound like your problem?

if so, coupled to what you said about getting hot, you ARE TOO LEAN! you need to do a leak test, if passing that, you need to fatten up on your main jet and raise your needle (lower the clip) A notch or two.

but i think you have a float issue to address first. let us know how the float testing i described turns out.

ALSO: While you are at testing the float, inspect the needel and seat, particularly the needle (small alloy square shaft with a rubber tip) check for wear along the flanks of this gadget. if it is notched, it may stick in its travel and casue the fuel not to shut off when the bowl is full. if it is scored, sand it lightly to remove any hooks/sharp edges.

 

[Blaaster]

I may have been misled by this quote.

"top end was done and with less then 5 hours on it. i did all of the break in stuff according to the book. i have 110 - 120 psi with my leak down tester. and i did that according to the directions."

My advice has be assuming that a leak down test has been done.

If you have done a recent rebuild, there is a great chance you may have an air leak somewhere. Do a leak down test and if that comes up OK then proceed with the jetting instructions.

Your quote

"when i rebuilt top end i used brand new wisco everything except gaskets."

Did you use old gaskets?

 

[paulrizik04]

1.)Have you performed a leak test on this bike? if not, id STRONGLY suggest it.

yes 120psi done it several times jsut to rule out air leaks.


2.)change the spark plug, what is your current ones code?
B8ES plug

3.) give the electrics a once over, inspect all plugs, (TORS grey plug@ carb and micro switch at throttle housing N make sure the are all functioning. Use a multimeter if you know what you are doing or get a buddy who is into electronics etc to help!

tors box is removed. but the peice is still on top of the carb that also ahs the idle adjustment. once i get this figured out im gonna get the kit to install idle adjsutment on the side of the carb. unless one of u have a reason to not do this. i havent removed anything from the throttle. what is the "micro switch at throttle housing"???

4.) whip off your flywheel and stator plate. Inspect the pickups, check for corrosion of magnets in the flywheel etc. Also check the woodruff key, make sure its not sheared. You will need a puller to get the flywheel off.

i do ahve the flywheel puller and have had it a few times now. th woodruff key kept shearing off. i have fixed it 3 times now and this last key is working. i think i wasnt getting flywheel nut tight enough causeing the shearing of the key.



Read my first post in this thread: http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/oko-no-go-41056/ particularly, lines 3-6. does this sound like your problem?


"now initial pull off is great but as soon as the power hits around mid range, its completely dead, nothing, just a sigh as if its run out of juice. nothing happens if i pin it open and wait either"

yes, only thing i would add/change is the power i feel is under 1/4 throttle and i would assume under 1/4 power. but everything else sound just about right on.

but i think you have a float issue to address first. let us know how the float testing i described turns out.

i took of the carb and gave it a cleaning. i found something causing the float plunger to get stuck and not move freely like supposed to. so i stiped carb and rebuild it will 100% clean everything.

i did float test: blew into the gas inlet pipe and pushed the float up and it seals good. i cant force it open with air either. so gas shouldnt be able to also. i adjsuted the float to shut off sooner and after adjusting it 100 times or more this is the first time that the bike seemed like it wasnt getting enough gas. so im goin to bend float tab a hair back and maybe i will have a nonflooding blaster for the first time.

all part in carb looked very good like new and no dirt except for the plunger which i cleaned. the rubber tip on the plunger looks new.



I may have been misled by this quote.

"top end was done and with less then 5 hours on it. i did all of the break in stuff according to the book. i have 110 - 120 psi with my leak down tester. and i did that according to the directions."

My advice has be assuming that a leak down test has been done.

If you have done a recent rebuild, there is a great chance you may have an air leak somewhere. Do a leak down test and if that comes up OK then proceed with the jetting instructions.

Your quote

"when i rebuilt top end i used brand new wisco everything except gaskets."

Did you use old gaskets?

everything is correct here, "top end was done and with less then 5 hours on it. i did all of the break in stuff according to the book. i have 110 - 120 psi with my leak down tester. and i did that according to the directions."

i did the leak down test and got 120 psi and held for 10 minutes with very low mount of air that leaked off. so i shouldnt ahve any airleaks

and the gaskets where new but not sure the brand.

 

[Blaaster]

A leak down test is performed by testing for pressure leaks in the bottom end, below the piston. What you have done is a compression test.

There is a major possibility that your crank seals are leaking allowing air into the crankcase, if this is the case you may be running very lean, that would account for overheating.

The bottom end air leaks can also be caused by poorly fitting gaskets.

Replacing the crank seals is no so much of a hard job and can be done without breaking the cases apart.

Either make a leak down tester of get one ready made from a guy on the forum, to drop a name "slickerthanyou" and do a leak down test..

I am pretty confident that the crank seals are the problem.