Hey guys, I'm new to the site, and quads. I've used it to help fix up a blaster I purchased a few months ago but I just signed up so I can ask some questions I have and can't find the answers to. I bought the blaster and fixed some oil leaks it had. Did the oil pump delete, and removed the tops along with cleaning the carb and a new spark plug and oil change. I got the quad to run and idle after all that. My problem is that now it will start very easy when it's cold. Like one or 2 kicks. But once it warms up and dies or I turn it off it takes like 25 kicks to get going again. Think it's just fouling the spark plug? But if I let it cool down it starts right back up again. I'm lost as to what to do next. Any help or tips would be appreciated.
Someone please help!
- Thread starter Kyled07440
- Start date
First things first do a compression test to see where you are at. Sounds like it may be time for a new top end rebuild.
That's what I was thinking. I wanted to get it running first to see how things were. And it runs pretty good when it's running. Only other problem I have is when I hit water it bogs down. I think I need to replace the plug wire and put some dielectric grease in it to solve that issue. Just sucks that it's so hard to start when it's hot. Usually it's the other way around isn't it? It fires so easily when it's cold. I'll have to get a compression tester and check it. And probably look into how to rebuild the tip end.
Ok, I figured I'd just get a new wire. But I have another question now. I'm seeing top end kits on ebay with the piston rings gaskets and a new jug for like 100 bucks. Should I stay away from that or would it be good to buy it. Just thinking it takes the hassle of sending out the top end to be hired and bored for a piston, correct?and 100 bucks for a new top end seems more than reasonable...
Hi Kyle,
if it starts well when cold it is not lost compression, but never a bad idea to check it.
My guess is that it is running rich for some reason.
The most likely reason is that the float level is too high.
Read up on carbs (lots of archive material here), pull it off, clean it and set up the float level.
You might as well start reading up on "leak test" and "plug chop" while you are at it.
I hope you have a great time on your fun little beast!
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That's what I figured bit is there a top end kit you would suggest? I know Wiseco is good but do the sell a while top end kit with the cylinder? I'd like to avoid sending it out to get bored and honed if I can. Mainly because I'm not sure where around me would do that...
Thanks for the advice. I did set the float level when I cleaned the carb. It may be a hair off. I also had to play with the idle screw and throttle cable a bit to get it to idle right. It seems to idle good. Maybe a little low at the moment till it warms up, but I've been making slow adjustments with it. It used to Rev to the moon. Lol
Do a compression test first.
If it is starting with 2 kicks when cold, the top end cannot be that bad.
Compression and piston skirt clearance are the 2 big concerns:
1) If it starts with 2 kicks the compression is probably fine.
2) Measuring the skirt clearance is a bit more complicated but basically if you can slide a 0.005" feeler gauge between the bottom of the piston skirt and the cylinder wall, you need to look at sizing up. If you can slide a 0.010" feeler gauge in there, you better not over-rev it or the skirt might break off.
Well, I have some bad news. I bought a compression tester and threw it in the blaster. Topped out at 60 psi lol. Can't believe it still ran like it did. But I have a Wiseco place right up the street so Im gonna call em and see if I can give em the cylinder and see if they can bore it out and match it up with one of their pistons. So at least Ill be happy knowing I can start over with this thing with a fresh top end. Now I'm gonna have to look into how to properly break one in. Seems like a big process but it will be worth it. So thanks for the advice guys. And if you have any about the break in process I'd love to hear what you guys do.
Yea I took the tank off, help the thumb throttle open and kicked it till the needle stopped. Did this a few times and it was 60 every time. I tried to start it prior to this too. It wouldn't start at first then like an hour later it started first kick. I talked to cosmetic gasket and they said for 80 bucks they will bore and Hine the cylinder and clean it all up, also set me up with a new Wiseco piston and cosmetic gasket set. So for the money I feel like it would be a good idea to do it all now and see how it works out after its back together.
Yeah, good advice Bummer.
I have run 2 strokes down to 60psi but they sure don't start well under 90psi. 60psi would pretty much take a running bump start to get going.
I broke a ring on a watercrossing once and had no compression. I was able to tow start the bike (125 KTM) and ride it 10 miles home at up to 50mph. It wouldn't come close to an idle though. With the "supercharging effect" of the tuned pipe, the compression has only a minor effect on top end power. Typically more compression helps starting (as long as you can kick it over!), smooth idle, off idle and mid-range power. More compression also pumps huge heat into the piston. Beware!
So I got the head and jug off today. The piston and cylinder look like new as far as I can tell, minus a little bit of black spot on top of the piston... The cylinder has no signs of scratches or anything. I'm kind of thinking some new rings and gaskets should take care of the compression. Only problem I have is that I need a new stud for where the jug bolts onto. Hopefully I can track one down.
So now I have another question. I want to get a need reed cage and intake boot because mine has seen better days. I think I want yo get the boysen dual stage set. Question is... Do you still use the intake boot or do you just use the black thing that it comes with? I don't want to order a new boot for it if I don't need to use it with the boyesen set up.
Have the cylinder measured for out of round and taper, if within specs hone the cylinder so that the new rings will bed.
You can use the carb boot with Boysen dual stage reeds.
Also use the stock curved reed stoppers not the silly little bars supplied with the new reeds.
Ok so Ill order the reed cage and a new intake boot then. Hopefully it will run right after this. I feel like the reed cage has been the issue this whole time. Looks like it's been over tightened a few times.
