So I tore down my engine today...

wwholden

Member
Nov 17, 2011
962
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Dayton, Ohio
Today was my first day working on the new Blaster. It had a clutch disingae problem. So the first thing I did was drian the crank and water came out. Yeah water, about a cup full. Very strange I thought and was very glad I didnt try to start it. I proceded to take off the clutch cover to expect everything to be rusty. But everything was clean. I began looking at the clutch and noticed that the small nut on the push rod was loose. I started playing with the adjustment rod with a screw driver and notced that now when I apply the clutch lever it pushes out and disnegaes the clutch. So all I will have to do is look at the Yamaha manual to learn how to properly adjust the push rod. I do have a question about the clutch. Is the two friction plates closest to the center of the engine suppose to be right on top of each other. Thought there should be a gap from the steel plate in between? See second pic.
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That being easily fixed I thought it would be a good idea to strip down the engine further to check for any other damages or corrosion from the water. I didn't find any rust or anything yet but when I took off the top end I found two large scores in the cylinder wall. Just deep enough for you to feel it if you took your finger nail across it. I posted pictures below of the piston and the cylinder wall. Should I hone the cylinder? Bore it out? New piston and rings? I dont really want to fork out more money for a new piston if I dont have to but if it needs to be done then nows the time. If I do have to get a new piston is there such things as a high compression piston like there is for the raptor? Whats a good piston? Also while I have the top end off is it possible for someone like me to do some port work? I have a lathe and a mill not CNC though. Is there a thread on here about a do it yourself guide to port work? Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated!
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cheeeez, tone them pics done a few sizes

and that cylinder needs bored to the next, yes new, piston size
and if you have to ask "can i bore it" i'd say........ no you cannot.
contact a local reputable shop, or call the number in my sig pic below
 
I would say bore it and get a piston while your in there just to be safe. The cylinder and piston look pretty beat with those scores. And a good piston would be Wiseco. Anything Forged is better because it won't melt down as easily and it will last much longer. And porting, if you have never done it before I would recommend either sending it to a pro or not doing it at all. If you screw up the power will be in all the wrong places and at worst the engine won't even run. I say send it to Ken.
 
that clutch does look funny, no 2 frictions should be without a steel in between,
unless thats where the "wave washer and different friction plate" go ????

off the top of my head
bore job...$60ish
piston ...$65-120
gasket set...$50ish
porting.... $150/200
head mod ...$60ish
 
Definately time for new piston and bore !! No such thing as high compression piston for Blaster, that is determined by head. Check out the Ken O DIY porting thread, he wouldn't post it if it wasn't a good idea. Gains won't be as much as an all out port job.
 
yep, somebody forgot to put a clutch plate in there!! Take it apart and find a replacement....not sure but you may have to replace those friction plates too, I don't know what it would have done to them running right on each other without a metal plate in between them.
 
That clutch should be rebuilt, there is possibly no damage from the plates being together as there would have been no friction between them as they are holding hands!

You need to scource a plate and get it between them, to give the clutch a chance of not slipping.

As to what caused the carnage to the piston and bore could we have some info about your mods please. Pipe, jetting, filter ect. Your style of riding may help too.

Oil tank, or do you pre mix your fuel, if so what oil and ratio, need to know the oil anyway.
 
That clutch should be rebuilt, there is possibly no damage from the plates being together as there would have been no friction between them as they are holding hands!

You need to scource a plate and get it between them, to give the clutch a chance of not slipping.

As to what caused the carnage to the piston and bore could we have some info about your mods please. Pipe, jetting, filter ect. Your style of riding may help too.

Oil tank, or do you pre mix your fuel, if so what oil and ratio, need to know the oil anyway.

I just got the bike so I have no idea how the previous owner took care of it. The air filter wasnt held down. It was just laying in there. So im sure it sucked all kinds of crap up in there. I just bought a basket and bolt to hold a new filter. I read that the no toil filter does the best job and allows the most flow besides a K&N. Anyone disagree? As far as the mods. There has been nothing done to the bike. I plan to add pipe, better intake as stated above, and jetting. The guy I bught it off of suposibly said he ran ams oil but who knows the ratio. I will be trail riding and it can get dusty so Ill need the best filter I can get.
 
Ok great, I will trear down the clutch later this week and see what I will need. Also I had a friend that always said to keep track of the order friction plates and steel plates came off. Is this nessary or can I just pull them off and not worry about installing them the way they came out?
 
Ok great, I will trear down the clutch later this week and see what I will need. Also I had a friend that always said to keep track of the order friction plates and steel plates came off. Is this nessary or can I just pull them off and not worry about installing them the way they came out?

If there in wrong now why worry about it.

Watch that u-tube vid of the install that Jsparky posted and here is straight from the manual too!

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I remember years ago when I worked with the Blasters clutch that there was a thin ring between that sits inside of a friction plate. Whats its purpose?
 
No such thing as high compression piston for Blaster, that is determined by head. Check out the Ken O DIY porting thread, he wouldn't post it if it wasn't a good idea. Gains won't be as much as an all out port job.

http://www.forwardpowersports.com/P...-Hi-Compression-Piston-Kit-Standard-Bore.aspx


advertised as high compression but it really just changes the exhaust port timing. a good port job would do the same thing.

but a port job and one of these are awesome.
I had that setup in my old blaster and it ripped very hard in the powerband.