So I got the jug off....

I'll search for that TORS link....I guess I'll but those wires going to the oil sending unit and see how that goes. Where do the actual wires lead to? Maybe get to the source of the problem and eliminate altogether and that annoying oil light in the headlamp! I:I

I noticed there is not much electricals to these Blasters...and the ones from the stator I unhooked are color coded so no need for marking! Thats good stuff there...

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
 
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I should be eliminating about 5lbs or more from the bike after it's done...had to remove the factory skid for my 44T sprocket because the chain was hitting it. May modify it to fit tho since it does protect vital parts when riding on rocky trails...

Do they make a plug that is kinda sunk in a little that is to drain the oil? I noticed mine was a little banged up and I had to hammer my 12mm socket on it to drain it before I got the motor off. hate to add extra lbs. to the machine but a full skid may be the way to go.
 
Oh...and also....when I drained the oil, it was a little on the gray side. would that indicate time for an oil change or just normal stuff?
 
I should be eliminating about 5lbs or more from the bike after it's done...had to remove the factory skid for my 44T sprocket because the chain was hitting it. May modify it to fit tho since it does protect vital parts when riding on rocky trails...

Do they make a plug that is kinda sunk in a little that is to drain the oil? I noticed mine was a little banged up and I had to hammer my 12mm socket on it to drain it before I got the motor off. hate to add extra lbs. to the machine but a full skid may be the way to go.

im not to sure of any flush mount oil drain bolts...i would just go with a full frame skid plate it ur beating it up that much. it will be more weight but it will also help save the frame and bottom of the motor.
 
how long ago has it been since it was changed before then? could have not been changed in a really long time.

Well the guy I got it from said it was fully serviced with amsoil oil throughout when i bought it. This was maybe 2-3 months ago. I know I couldn't read crap thru my oil sensing glass on the side of the motor when I checked it!

There is a metal thing with holes in it that is over the site glass....wonder if I should remove that from inside the case and clean the site glass off when I am prepping it to go back together?

Also....noticed there is sealant people use on the case when putting them back together. Do you know of what sealant this is? It's hard to trust dealers sometimes....word of mouth and personal experience is what i base my own judgments from.

I am sure when I am putting it back together I am going to use the best oil that's recommended by everyone here to minimize wear.

I downloaded the service manual you guys got on here and printed it out at work. I got all the parts breakdown there to go by.

There will also be a vid of it when it is complete and running to show the power gains!
 
yamabond 4.. that what you'll want to glue the cases back together.. also there are 2 kinda of threebond that work as well.. oh and just so you know.. honda, kawi, suzuki, and yamaha case sealant is all very similar so any will work.. BUT STAY AWAY FROM YAMABOND 5 i'm nto sure if you can even buy yamabond 5 still but it is a "hard drying" sealant where yamabond 4 is a "semidrying" sealant.. they were going to replace the 4 with the 5 BUT.. yamaha techs complained that 5 was garbage. which it is..

gray oil... probably pretty normal... really it doesn't matter your gonna be insde that thign anyway.. make sure to inspect the trans gears, shafts, drum, and forks for any wierd wear patterns.. going to a 40hp setup from a 16hp stocker you'll find that REAL quick once you start leaning hard on that trans when it;s all back together..
 
yamabond 4.. that what you'll want to glue the cases back together.. also there are 2 kinda of threebond that work as well.. oh and just so you know.. honda, kawi, suzuki, and yamaha case sealant is all very similar so any will work.. BUT STAY AWAY FROM YAMABOND 5 i'm nto sure if you can even buy yamabond 5 still but it is a "hard drying" sealant where yamabond 4 is a "semidrying" sealant.. they were going to replace the 4 with the 5 BUT.. yamaha techs complained that 5 was garbage. which it is..

gray oil... probably pretty normal... really it doesn't matter your gonna be insde that thign anyway.. make sure to inspect the trans gears, shafts, drum, and forks for any wierd wear patterns.. going to a 40hp setup from a 16hp stocker you'll find that REAL quick once you start leaning hard on that trans when it;s all back together..


Yamabond 4....noted...

I've been looking at some gears and they all seem pretty normal so far.....but inside the tranny is a different story.
 
when putting it together i would freeze all the bearings. i do this whenever working with bearings. when you freeze it it works like concrete it shrinks when cold and when it get warm it expands. if you dont freeze the bearings you might have to tap it in with a mallet which could end up bad
 
when putting it together i would freeze all the bearings. i do this whenever working with bearings. when you freeze it it works like concrete it shrinks when cold and when it get warm it expands. if you dont freeze the bearings you might have to tap it in with a mallet which could end up bad

Ya know....I saw that in a video. The guy had the bearings in dry ice for about an hour, then heated around the spot where the bearing goes with a propane torch, but not too much heat....just enough to make water boil on the aluminum. Then pulled the bearing out of dry ice and dropped it right on.
 
yamabond 4.. that what you'll want to glue the cases back together.. also there are 2 kinda of threebond that work as well.. oh and just so you know.. honda, kawi, suzuki, and yamaha case sealant is all very similar so any will work.. BUT STAY AWAY FROM YAMABOND 5 i'm nto sure if you can even buy yamabond 5 still but it is a "hard drying" sealant where yamabond 4 is a "semidrying" sealant.. they were going to replace the 4 with the 5 BUT.. yamaha techs complained that 5 was garbage. which it is..

Ok Yamabond 4 is discontinued....so threebond?
 
So I FINALLY got the right lug pattern rims and 10" tires.

What do you all think?

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Ok Yamabond 4 is discontinued....so threebond?



what???? they discontinued it? WTF!!!! threebond is gonan eb hard to locate i bet.. try a honda,kawi, or suzuki dealer.. ask about thier case sealant.. if it;s gray and smells like testors model glue.. is the right sh*t..

who told you yamabond 4 was discontinued? i had heard that in the past and bought 5.. well 5 sucks!! and then the local dealer told me they brough 4 back.. so i bought a couple tubes... regardless what you use... don't pile it on.. very thin film is the key.... your sealing 2 machined surfaces together.. it only takes a very tin film. so thin you can see through it in fact.. that how i do mine.. NEVER had an issue.. if youi look arouidn you'll see that quality engine builders wil agree.. i gott alook int this yamabond 4 issue.. i'll let you know what i find out.. i'll also locate teh threebond #'s for ya and post them..