For whatever reason you ever want to do it, this is how I did it.
Since I'm running Blaster rear fenders on my Shee they are several inches shorter in the back. My reasons were purely cosmetic.
Also my neighbor's are cool and I live right down the street from Budds Creek and Maryland International Raceway- if you don't like noise you should move.
On to it. I started with a set of Pro Circuit Platimuns I won off ebay.
I ended up going with a 4" cut. Using a tape measure, measure back from the end cap. Take a series of measurements around the silencers and make about 6-10 different marks with a sharpy marker.
Then just connect the dots. Chuck thoses suckers up in a vice, get a hacksaw, and spray some WD40 on your marks to keep the blade from clogging up with aluminum.
Hack away. Don't try to cut it all the way around at once but instead keep rotating the silencer and only cut 1 side at a time.
Once you get all the way around, go ahead and hack the middle pipe that gets wrapped in packing.
It will only take 5 minutes per silencer and you'll have this when your done:
The end cap will most likely be riveted on. I used an angle grinder and flap wheel to sand them down.
Put'em back in the vice and drive the rivets through with a hammer and punch or a small size Phipps head screwdriver. If they were previously installed correctly there will be a bead of silicone still holding them. I used a socket extension with a socket attacked backwards chucked up in a vice and just slammed them until the endcaps broke free.
You will want to grind off all the old silicone and spooge around the outsides of the endcaps or else they won't go back on. Drill your new holes in your silencer taking care to line them up and be the same size as your endcaps.
Now is the time for some new packing. I'm gonna use MSR Silent Sport packing. It comes loose and not in a roll.
You can pack it tighter that way which = less noise. Pack her up tight! Trial fit your endcaps to see if they will fit or require more grinding. Once they go on right, run a bead of silicone or RTV sealant for a tight seal.
Pop rivet them back on (a rivet gun is cheap every man should have one).
DONE!
These pipes will be sandblasted and hit with some satin high heat paint.
Here's the difference in looks on my Shee- BADAZZ
...PB
Blasted, painted, stuck, DONE
Since I'm running Blaster rear fenders on my Shee they are several inches shorter in the back. My reasons were purely cosmetic.
Also my neighbor's are cool and I live right down the street from Budds Creek and Maryland International Raceway- if you don't like noise you should move.
On to it. I started with a set of Pro Circuit Platimuns I won off ebay.
I ended up going with a 4" cut. Using a tape measure, measure back from the end cap. Take a series of measurements around the silencers and make about 6-10 different marks with a sharpy marker.
Then just connect the dots. Chuck thoses suckers up in a vice, get a hacksaw, and spray some WD40 on your marks to keep the blade from clogging up with aluminum.
Hack away. Don't try to cut it all the way around at once but instead keep rotating the silencer and only cut 1 side at a time.
Once you get all the way around, go ahead and hack the middle pipe that gets wrapped in packing.
It will only take 5 minutes per silencer and you'll have this when your done:
The end cap will most likely be riveted on. I used an angle grinder and flap wheel to sand them down.
Put'em back in the vice and drive the rivets through with a hammer and punch or a small size Phipps head screwdriver. If they were previously installed correctly there will be a bead of silicone still holding them. I used a socket extension with a socket attacked backwards chucked up in a vice and just slammed them until the endcaps broke free.
You will want to grind off all the old silicone and spooge around the outsides of the endcaps or else they won't go back on. Drill your new holes in your silencer taking care to line them up and be the same size as your endcaps.
Now is the time for some new packing. I'm gonna use MSR Silent Sport packing. It comes loose and not in a roll.
You can pack it tighter that way which = less noise. Pack her up tight! Trial fit your endcaps to see if they will fit or require more grinding. Once they go on right, run a bead of silicone or RTV sealant for a tight seal.
Pop rivet them back on (a rivet gun is cheap every man should have one).
DONE!
These pipes will be sandblasted and hit with some satin high heat paint.
Here's the difference in looks on my Shee- BADAZZ
...PB
Blasted, painted, stuck, DONE
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