Well everything was going pretty good and I decided to see if I had spark. Well it doesn't. I have bypassed key, removed tors, I put a new stator on, and have tried to coils. I'm thinking it might be the Cdi.
Rebuild on the "FREE SHEE"
- Thread starter Wifesblaster
- Start date
Make sure there is no rust on stator poles or timing "nubs" on outside of flywheel. Set pick-up gap .018" . Check all connections are clean and tight. Tors brain disconnected? Ohmed stator, pick-up, coil, caps? Grounds clean and tight? Might run seperate ground from coil back to engine. Make sure none of tors wires are grounde or twisted together. Flywheel doesn't rattle? Inside of flywheel clean? Frame ground clean and tight at volt reg?
I was hoping you would chime in. Here is what I know so far....
TORS is disconnected at harnesses and black box is gone
New stator
Nubs on flywheel are clean
Ground at voltage regulator is clean
Bypasses key and twisted wires together
Tried 2 coils
Unplugged run switch and tried
I will start going through everything with a tester soon.
if it's like the blaster ?, connecting the wires kills the ignition.
try it with them disconnected
also, check out this post i found in another banshee no spark thread...........
Sweet. I'll give that a try. I the wires for the key both ways last night, connected and disconnected. I will try to ground the wire when I get home.
Thanks.
I'm hoping the pickup gap is wrong. I never set it when I put it on. I am going to pull the flywheel and inspect/clean everything. I will also be checking the ground coming from the stator.
Ask and you shall receive. I got the radiator mounted and most of the coolant lines ran. Here is a pic of the clutch cover I modded. I just figured out how to turn the flash off on my phone so the pictures wont have so much glare on them. I'll take some better pics tonight without the flash.
i cant decide if i like that clutch cover or not.... maybe its the black ring that makes it look funny to me
I’ve been watching this thread for a while. You did a great job on this build Boss. I would ask for a ride report but I already know what you’re going to say. WTF KEN!!!!!!!! Don’t kill yourself. You’re a great customer. Enjoy the quad.
Thanks ken. I still can't get this thing to spark! I tried a different stator, different coil, set pickup to .018, took the tape off of the harness to look for broken or damaged wires, tapped on Cdi box, checked/cleaned grounds, connected the 2 ignition wires, disconnected two ignition wires, unplugged run switch, and pulled my hair out!
Tors and parking brake are disconnected. I will be putting the meter on everything tomorrow. This bike is really starting to pizz me off!
Tors and parking brake are disconnected. I will be putting the meter on everything tomorrow. This bike is really starting to pizz me off!
Got your pm. Check that the black (which is ground on whole system) has continuity (resistance) from cdi plug back to stator, as the cdi is internally grounded. Check orange from cdi to coil and all four from stator to cdi for resistance/continuity. Make sure ground is connected at stator.
As mentioned on BHQ Ricky/RM stators are known to be faulty right out of box, sometimes even if they ohm out perfect, so if you can get your hands on another, or even your old one try that. Make sure poles are clean from rust. Set pic-up gap.
Presume you have tried ALL suggestions here and BHQ? All connections clean of corrosion, tight, dab of dielectric grease. Reasoning behind seperate coil ground is steel isn't that good of conductor.
Last thing that comes to mind is switches. As mentioned on BHQ, the run/handlebar switch is open, no continuity in run posistion, check that, maybe even try with it unplugged. Also IF I am looking at the wire diagram correctly the key circuit is open in run posistion. Regardless, however you eliminated the switch try it both ways. Red/black + black connected and disconnected. I'll keep working at it see if I come up with anything else.
As mentioned on BHQ Ricky/RM stators are known to be faulty right out of box, sometimes even if they ohm out perfect, so if you can get your hands on another, or even your old one try that. Make sure poles are clean from rust. Set pic-up gap.
Presume you have tried ALL suggestions here and BHQ? All connections clean of corrosion, tight, dab of dielectric grease. Reasoning behind seperate coil ground is steel isn't that good of conductor.
Last thing that comes to mind is switches. As mentioned on BHQ, the run/handlebar switch is open, no continuity in run posistion, check that, maybe even try with it unplugged. Also IF I am looking at the wire diagram correctly the key circuit is open in run posistion. Regardless, however you eliminated the switch try it both ways. Red/black + black connected and disconnected. I'll keep working at it see if I come up with anything else.
Ok, just searched BHQ, the red/black and black for key switch have to be connected to run.
#9 Key stolen - Banshee Repairs and Mods - Banshee HQ Forums
#9 Key stolen - Banshee Repairs and Mods - Banshee HQ Forums
