rear cable brakes

the cable adjustment is just that, on the brakes, carb or clutch, it is for adjusting cable stretch, not the unit's operation itself
the adjustment for the caliper is inside, and is supposedly self adjusting, which is hardly ever the case
pull the 3 allen head bolts on the side of the caliper, romoving it while careful not to rip the gasket, then turn the white cap clockwise a 1/4 turn at a time, replacing the side cover each time, as it pushes on the cap to check adjustment, if it locks up the brakes, you've gone too far, and will need to pull the white cap, get a screw driver in there and undo the drive screw, then try again
this process will need repeated usually monthly to maintain good braking power

when you get tired of doing that repeatedly, only to find it works for like a week then needs redone again, and again
holler at me, i have the real solution..........hydro's
 
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I pulled it apart I took the whit piece out n I see a bunch of spacers and the piece the cable is attached to what do I turn?

you turn the white piece, as it was in there, you'll hear clicking sounds
14 - 1/2 turn at a time, replace cover and tighten down, if it's not enuf, repeat

the white piece turns a worm gear type screw, and pushes the pad out further
 
I did that exact process and oiled everything while i was at it. Also every time you put in new pads you will need to repeat this process.
 
no it shouldnt come out. It should spin and click and it will adjust it the pad out or in. click it and watch the pad adjust.

Thats out of memory im pretty sure thats how you do it tho.
 
no it shouldnt come out. It should spin and click and it will adjust it the pad out or in. click it and watch the pad adjust.

Thats out of memory im pretty sure thats how you do it tho.

no, it does come out, and should only turn clockwise, to reverse the process you must use a screwdriver, as the white piece is one way only, and has a flat end, that has to engage the flat screw head on the worm gear
you must push in on it for it to engage the worm gear while turning it
 
Awk's set up sounds like the ticket, but cable brakes will work for ya. Just need to keep'm clean, greased and adjusted AND you need to get rid of the parking brake by ordering a shorty cable off of ebay. They're about $30 and let you have more direct control of your stock rear brakes without the extra "play" you get with the longer stock cable. You end up fighting the stock cable once it takes a sh!t on ya.

Good luck!
 
Yeah the shorty cable is your fix for sure. I put that on my brakes along with taking them apart cleaning them real good and greasing them all back up and slap them back together and they work great. But nothing is going to beat the hydros if you can afford them.
 
I got a good rear shory cable you can have for shipping. isnt streched but is used.


Also everyone says hydros are the key i can get my stock rear cable to lock up no problem even on pavement and all. I do have to push down further than hydro's but they still work. Mine were froze until i just cleaned, oiled and adjusted them.
 
Ya thats how mine were when I got my Bike they were froze up from sitting outside in the weather for who knows how long before I got it. But after cleaning them and lubing them up they work great and lock up easy I do wish though I could afford to get some front hydros cause the drums work but they suck
 
Ya thats how mine were when I got my Bike they were froze up from sitting outside in the weather for who knows how long before I got it. But after cleaning them and lubing them up they work great and lock up easy I do wish though I could afford to get some front hydros cause the drums work but they suck

Yeah ive done all i can with the fronts i can get them to work really well but not skid. I dought i see my self buying hydro brakes ever unless they are a great price. If i would buy them it would be the fronts, but usually the only time i use the fonts is when im rolling backwards and when im going backwards they lock up.