ream the spindles?
- Thread starter B14573r
- Start date
sorry, no pics.
But yes there is a special tool that is needed. People will tell you go to a machine shop and have it done its like $30. Well here in California I went to a friend of mine who has a shop, cool thing was they werent going to charge me. Well they didnt have the correct bit, so they charged me for the bit only. It turned out to be $60 for the bit.
But yes there is a special tool that is needed. People will tell you go to a machine shop and have it done its like $30. Well here in California I went to a friend of mine who has a shop, cool thing was they werent going to charge me. Well they didnt have the correct bit, so they charged me for the bit only. It turned out to be $60 for the bit.
i have asr and burgard arms and much prefer the asr's the heim joints are sooooooooooooooooo much nicer. just make sure you get shocks cuz the +3'
s really change things around. i used a angled dremmel bit to ream my holes myself and just did a back and forth until they fit good and snug.
s really change things around. i used a angled dremmel bit to ream my holes myself and just did a back and forth until they fit good and snug.
i dont quite understand what we're discussing here, are you trying to say the heim joint bolt doesn't go thru where the spindle mounts up to it?? ive got the burgards too and have not gotten that far yet..but that don't make much sense that you'd have to modify the spindles, why would they do that? instead of just using the right size??
i hope not...that would be BS...spend $325 on A-arms so I can spend more to make them fit, that don't seem to make to much sense to me...guess I better test fit before I go and PC my spindles!!
yea burgard uses ball joints which are oversized. so you have to ream your stock spinles to fit over and set properly. as for pics ill show what i got then u can hopefully figure it out im not taking them apart for you to see sorry.
the three pics are of the top bottom and whole front. the bottom bolt is bigger than the hole. the top bolt doesn't have a slot like the stock blaster so i just have it very tight i would reccomend welding this so it doesn't seperate as you tighten it. you can drill out the bottom w/ a 1/2" drill bit and then taper the inside slightly with a burr bit for a dremel that has an angle to it. next post will have asr stuff.
the three pics are of the top bottom and whole front. the bottom bolt is bigger than the hole. the top bolt doesn't have a slot like the stock blaster so i just have it very tight i would reccomend welding this so it doesn't seperate as you tighten it. you can drill out the bottom w/ a 1/2" drill bit and then taper the inside slightly with a burr bit for a dremel that has an angle to it. next post will have asr stuff.
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okay here are some pics of my asr front end top and bottom as you will see the top is the same style as stock with the groove. the bottom i shaved down but fits right in. i like the asr's but either way both front ends are great improvement over stock. the shocks make a HUDGE difference. they are both set up for their apps...120lbs for the works, 140 lbs for the pep's. and respctivly for the a-arm size. you cannot run stock shocks w/ +3 unless you wanna get hurt. you need to relocate the mount or get the right shocks. +2 i had stock shocks on for a few days and it wasn't bottoming out all over but it wasn't hard to do. hope this helps in what you have to do.
boy im glad this thread came up now...couple of quick questions for you quadboy...
1. when i drill out the bottom hole w/ the 1/2" bit and i go to taper the hole am i reaming out the bottom?? or the top?? the bottom, right?? almost countersinking so the round end of the ball joint bottoms out??
2. when you say i should weld the slot closed, cant i just run a bolt through the side holes to keep it snug?? i definitely could weld it, but wouldn't bolting it closed do the same thing??? that's how it is stock...
1. when i drill out the bottom hole w/ the 1/2" bit and i go to taper the hole am i reaming out the bottom?? or the top?? the bottom, right?? almost countersinking so the round end of the ball joint bottoms out??
2. when you say i should weld the slot closed, cant i just run a bolt through the side holes to keep it snug?? i definitely could weld it, but wouldn't bolting it closed do the same thing??? that's how it is stock...
yea the bottom. the bottom of the ball joint is slightly bigger than the top. you don't want ti to bottom out though you probally want it to be suet up so you are like 3/8 away from the grease cover. if u go to far you will pop the cover and all the grease will come out. mine are probally lower than they should be but the lower you go the more ride height you will have. also the top shouldn't be close to where i have it. look at stock and try to keep the same gaps is probaly a good rule of thumb. i just did alot of test fit and tried the steering a bunch of times until i was comfortable with how far down they were. just make sure you take your time and test fit or u will have 2 start over w/ new spindles. also if you go to far down the ball joint you will have messed up steering another reason for heim joints. for the top the stock has a cutout for a bolt to go through. if you are crafty you can slighlty grind into the top tie rod so a bolt will go through the hole of the right size and make it like stock or not cut and put a small bolt that fits in between the ball joint and the space left. maybe a 6mm but i think that may be slightly weak. so the other option is you can weld it. there are some choices i just like welding b/c it as a strong fix. and you don't have to compromise with a smaller weaker bolt or grind away at your tie rod. i havn't welded it yet but i will be soon.
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ok...thanksfor the insight!! the only thing i dont quite understand is top thru bolt....mine appeared to have plenty of room for stock bolt to close that gap Ill keep you posted!
well when you have your stock apart look how the top is grooved for the bolt to fir through. the ball joint ends are the same size so it shouldn't work. but let me know
yeah ill keep you up to date...just ordered the proper tool from snap-on...spoke to Izzy and he said they ream them for free or you can buy snapon part #r121 for $48. as for the top hole Ill keep you in the know how it goes for me...
Got a set of Banshee spindles I would let go of fairly reasonably, ready to go for Burgard Arms. Have a set of them (Burgard Arms) myself on my Blaster. I used Raptor 660 spindles on mine, which worked fine. And had some Banshee spindles laying around I thought I could make a buck on by re-reaming them for just this purpose. Being a machinist by trade I bought the reamer and did them myself. Another plus is the conversion to discs is a slam dunk with the Raptor or Banshee hubs. I didn't like the fact that the Blaster Spindles were a pinch style on top which would not give you a true fit to the ball joint taper on matter how careful you assemble them. Whereas the others are tapered fits, only the wrong tapers for moog style ball joints (Which the Burgard's use). The set on my bench have also been bead blasted and zinc plated for a rust free life. If you would like pics send me your e-mail address.
Another note...I bought the reamer on EBay from a company called XCUT. I gave the dimensions of the taper to the seller and he said the #5912 (1.2" TPF) is what I needed. Should you want to try this yourself, make sure you have the ball joint in hand to know when your depth is correct!
Thanks for the info...Ive already purchased the reamer from snap-on its sitting on my table as we speak. 
as for the Hubs I appreciate the offer on those as well, but Ive already got a pair of stock hubs that I powdercoated yesterday. Love the look of silver metallic powdercoat over zinc Thanks again!!
as for the Hubs I appreciate the offer on those as well, but Ive already got a pair of stock hubs that I powdercoated yesterday. Love the look of silver metallic powdercoat over zinc Thanks again!!Similar threads
