rd350 problems
- Thread starter KBRott
- Start date
I wouldn't confine myself to an area. Look across the U.S. You may save a few bucks or even $50 on shipping, but you'll still have to drive there and back twice.
On top of that, when you do get them back and get outrun, you'll wish you'd have dropped that extra bit to get a better porting job.
Also, don't look at peak numbers. I promise you that I can do a port job to match Flotek's peak power, but I'm nowhere near good enough to make that number with as wide of a powerband as Flotek or KOR.
On top of that, when you do get them back and get outrun, you'll wish you'd have dropped that extra bit to get a better porting job.
Also, don't look at peak numbers. I promise you that I can do a port job to match Flotek's peak power, but I'm nowhere near good enough to make that number with as wide of a powerband as Flotek or KOR.
If KOR doesn't want it, send it to Flotek. I'm sending my Banshee cylinders to him when I get around to it because I've spoken to him a few times and have promised him that I'd send them to him when that time came.
http://flotekperformance.com/services
http://flotekperformance.com/services
i spoke to the guy at flotek ( drawing a blank on name) he refered me to a guy in oklahoma i think, i called a couple times but he didnt answer now i cant find number. i dont really wanna bug him again for another shops number. seems kinda wrong maybe its just me
have you heard of vitos forged super stock pistons? if so whats your opinion of them. a machinist turned me on to them and suggested thisroute over head cutting.
I've heard good and bad. Personally, I'm not a fan of the cutout for the exhaust port because I think it doesn't let a significant portion of the squish band do it's job.
From what I understand, they are designed to simulate a raised exhaust port and correct the stock head shape. For what you spend on those pistons, you'd be 2/3 of the way to a Flotek port job ($300).
I'd also recommend just about anything over head cutting, to include the super-stock pistons. I got my Chariot Performance head and Pro Design 21cc domes for around 210 shipped. Increased my static compression from 115psi to 150 and I saw a noticeable increase in performance across the board.
The reduced head volume does reduce the burn time and help out on bottom end with performance, but the dome shape is critical. The angle of the squish bad, any curve in the design, the area of the squish band, the dome shape and volume, squish clearance etc. all play a role there. By decking the head, you only improve upon squish clearance and compression. Aftermarket domes will improve on all of these.
If you deck the head 1mm, you will reduce the volume by (distance to be decked x bore x bore x .0007854 = ) 3.22cc, or for a total volume of around 20cc. That $80 would get you halfway to that Chariot Performance head. Plus, you can't really deck the Banshee head that much because squish gets too tight. AKA, no race gas for you, only damaged pistons.
I'd go with Chariot Performance for heads because you can use the stock studs, it comes in black, it fits like a glove, uses Pro Design domes, uses an o-ring design, they're pretty low-cost, they pull more heat from the engine, and they stand behind their products.
Look at it like this, 200 towards super stock pistons, or 210 towards an aftermarket head and domes.
From what I understand, they are designed to simulate a raised exhaust port and correct the stock head shape. For what you spend on those pistons, you'd be 2/3 of the way to a Flotek port job ($300).
I'd also recommend just about anything over head cutting, to include the super-stock pistons. I got my Chariot Performance head and Pro Design 21cc domes for around 210 shipped. Increased my static compression from 115psi to 150 and I saw a noticeable increase in performance across the board.
The reduced head volume does reduce the burn time and help out on bottom end with performance, but the dome shape is critical. The angle of the squish bad, any curve in the design, the area of the squish band, the dome shape and volume, squish clearance etc. all play a role there. By decking the head, you only improve upon squish clearance and compression. Aftermarket domes will improve on all of these.
If you deck the head 1mm, you will reduce the volume by (distance to be decked x bore x bore x .0007854 = ) 3.22cc, or for a total volume of around 20cc. That $80 would get you halfway to that Chariot Performance head. Plus, you can't really deck the Banshee head that much because squish gets too tight. AKA, no race gas for you, only damaged pistons.
I'd go with Chariot Performance for heads because you can use the stock studs, it comes in black, it fits like a glove, uses Pro Design domes, uses an o-ring design, they're pretty low-cost, they pull more heat from the engine, and they stand behind their products.
Look at it like this, 200 towards super stock pistons, or 210 towards an aftermarket head and domes.
Not even close. Would be like trying to bolt Dodge ram dually wheels on a Honda Civic.
So do you have the RD350LC? The LC denotes liquid cooled.
Also, I dug up a few threads that were somewhat useful:
http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=5074.0
http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136288
Also, I dug up a few threads that were somewhat useful:
http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=5074.0
http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136288
Oh man, I'd lean towards the Banshee engine on that one since you have the air cooled version. That engine would probably go within a month or 2 on eBay. If you decide to keep it, read on.
Not sure if the Banshee cylinders will bolt up to the RD bottom end. I have no clue whether it does or not, but it may have a water pump slot cut out into the mold like the Blaster does for the DT200. If it does, I'd look into that.
You may want to look into having the head recut instead of being just decked. Some one does it, I'm sure. I want to say that the RD350s had individual heads so it wouldn't be too different than cutting a Blaster head once the design has been derived.
If I was building an RD350, I'd have it ported, heads cut, pipes, UNI filter, and +4 timing with V-Force reeds (if there exists a set that'll fit). You should be sitting at over 55hp with that setup on pump gas.
Not sure if the Banshee cylinders will bolt up to the RD bottom end. I have no clue whether it does or not, but it may have a water pump slot cut out into the mold like the Blaster does for the DT200. If it does, I'd look into that.
You may want to look into having the head recut instead of being just decked. Some one does it, I'm sure. I want to say that the RD350s had individual heads so it wouldn't be too different than cutting a Blaster head once the design has been derived.
If I was building an RD350, I'd have it ported, heads cut, pipes, UNI filter, and +4 timing with V-Force reeds (if there exists a set that'll fit). You should be sitting at over 55hp with that setup on pump gas.
Sweet deal there. Not too many dive off into the bottom ends. Research and be patient and you'll be spinning gears in no time.
TBH, my first experience with an ATV transmission was reassembling one that was thrown into a bag that I'd never seen before. I thought it was a strange type of a grandfather clock when I saw it.
