doing a little porting on a blaster cylinder..thought i would share some pics. i am not trying to advertise or get business for portwork, just sharing. this is setup for 93 octane and trail riding. it is not done yet.
porting pics
- Thread starter StrokedTater244
- Start date
thanks guys.. its really nothing extreme.. but will be no slouch by any means.
Jag, im just using dremel based stuff with carbide cutters.
thanks joe..yeah, i have done a few..
triples exhaust is not something i am comfortable with trying on someone elses cylinder..maybe oneday when i have time and an extra jug laying around i will cut them in.. no boysen ports either, thats not where the big power is made anyway.
damn you just do everything dont you looks great im beting it will be a ripper bet they will be happy wiff it
yessir..i live 2 strokes!!!
yeah, i think they will be..it will have a fairly wide trailable powerband. gotta try and get in the transfers better to change the angle a little more, clean things up, chamfer, hone and it will be done.
Looks good Matt! Man you are a do-it-aller! This Guy-Builds roofs, makes drag frames, ports motors, extends anything you want... Smokes em up on the strip- what's next a four stroke? BWAAAHAAAA J/K!
Stroked can u give me a quote on a port for racing? And what eles do i need when i get a port done? anything?
looks great tater what port timing u gonna run?
one litle trick i used was to tear sand paper tape (the stuff that comes in rolls) in to long pieces that would fit into the transfers and work the inside radius or the shortside of the port. (dad taught me on my vw heads that the short side of the radius had less material to remove and would increase airflow the most). this also helped chamfer the bottom of the port.
one litle trick i used was to tear sand paper tape (the stuff that comes in rolls) in to long pieces that would fit into the transfers and work the inside radius or the shortside of the port. (dad taught me on my vw heads that the short side of the radius had less material to remove and would increase airflow the most). this also helped chamfer the bottom of the port.
Don't know if it makes any difference but I use a small ball diamond bit for the tight inside corners of the transfers. Pics of intake? Though the ex is wide notice the nice radius to roof, good job. I:II:I Makes me wish I took pics of mine before I put it together, 'course might pull it back down this winter for more work. 
thanks for the tip.not really sure..i get the numbers to set the ports at from my builder.
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thanks..yeah the exhaust is shaped to make some wide power.Don't know if it makes any difference but I use a small ball diamond bit for the tight inside corners of the transfers. Pics of intake? Though the ex is wide notice the nice radius to roof, good job. I:II:I Makes me wish I took pics of mine before I put it together, 'course might pull it back down this winter for more work.
i think i have an intake pic..
ok part of that post i made was a lil spaced out on my train of thought there. . . i had been drinkin a lil at 12:41 . . im sure it made sense at the time lol
hahha..its all good!
like i said im not really trying to take on cylinders from members..you guys have better options for portwork, IE: flotek, oconner and wildcard.
denny told me that 192* on the exhaust and 124* on the transfers for a good trail port..exhaust should open up at around 83.9* ATDC if i remember,idk. wish i could figure out good timing on a drag port . . . . . . I just learned about some of this stuff recently and it's still a lot of trial and error for me. So far Ive been pretty good at it all.
yeah that is probably right around where this one is.. ex. on a drag engine is going to be at least 196+ not real sure on the transfers.. the ex will also have a much different shape than this one. angles are key also. shoot for around 30 blowdown..i believe.. i think i have all this recorded somewhere. ill have to dig around oneday.
