Porting and blowdown

deeeebeeeeee

Member
Aug 20, 2015
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Rossville, Ga
Curently I am working on my cylinder , the timing numbers are based of depth of top edge measurements and known deck height (it's easy to see where the ring topped out at and measure from the top of top ring to top of piston. It isn't perfect but it's close and my cuts are made conservative leaving the final few thousandths or not to a blue stone or 80 grit flap wheel or even back to the carbide if more than 10 or 15 thousandths need to come off.

My exhaust port has been raised and sits around 89 to 90 degrees atdc giving me 180-182 exhaust duration I plan in running this to 87 or 88 atdc and 184-186 duration

Since I felt like even 90 degrees for exhaust and the stock 119.5 for transfers giving 29.5 degrees of blowdown might be a bit too much. I decided to pull the blowdown in a little . Once I made a short file that allowed me to hand cut the transfers I decided that I might be able to go a little further.
Currently my primary transfers are at 118 atdc giving me 124 transfer duration, with my exhaust port at 90° atdc , the blowdown remains the same as stock at 28.

Higher blowdown numbers leave more time for fuel/air mix to short circuit out the exhsust at lower rpm, and also give more time for exhaust to clear out of the cylinder at higher rpm basically making its part in the symphony prefer higher rpm.

My plan was to move the exhaust to 88 atdc 184 duration or maybe more
116 atdc 124 dur 28 blow dow main transfers and
118 atdc 122 dur 30 blowdown on the secondsries, as well as raise the boost port the same number of degrees as the exhaust port.
Which should put it at 122°for boost port.
I will have to measure to see where I am at on the transfers, and exhaust at the moment , but I am along ways away from 190-195/130 or such so I can still go either way as far as the numbers go.

To me having the mains open a little earlier would seem to be the right idea as they would have good velocity opening first and force mixture toward the back to help scavenging and getting the exhaust out, also staying open a little longer making the last fuel in have a little more velocity as well as being .

The biggest delima I am having is trying to basically guess at what transfer timing will go well with 184-188 duration for exhaust, on my Toomey piped blaster. Keep in mind that I really don't have a means to adjust the transfer angles.

I can follow guidelines for a standard 2 stroke which the blaster isn't unless we are talking 70's tech, I can figure I only want to raise peak power rpm by maybe 500 to 1000. I know I don't want to kill the midrange because that's were my boys spend alot of their time "for now" , because the both get a face full of grin when she starts to crackle and they know it'll rip if they give it to it.
I am not asking for any secrets, not trying to build a bike to compete on the circuits. Just want to know if I am barking up the right tree with around 29 duration to match my 184-188 exhaust dur. target. And maybe a hint as to if I were to spread it across the transfers, if I am headed the right direction?

Took me hours of reading and study, as well as hours of looking, cutting, filing, sanding.....think talk rinse repeat.
 
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Good luck! It seems like a lot of work and risk, why not leave it to the professionals? Are you going to have it dyno tested?
 
These will give you more than you will EVER need!
A good pipe of your choice, PROPER jetting, a quality air filter, and a re-chambered "hemi" head will double your stock HP and still be completely reliable, and have longevity!

Go from stock 16-17HP to 30+ HP when tuned properly!

Why waste your time? When your done with the templates, throw that degree wheel on there and record the results.

here you go... \/ \/ \/
http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/portingtemplates.html

You will learn a TON from these templates!
 
Good luck! It seems like a lot of work and risk, why not leave it to the professionals? Are you going to have it dyno tested?

No I am not going to have it dynoed , I am not concered with a particular number and will consider my success by its grin widening ability. I have spent quite a bit of time pouring over Blair, and jennings, as well as doing other research and studing.
I don't see the risk, the math although complicated is out there, my research is solid, my work although not perfect is reasonable,
I have cut more conservatively than many known working examples so I can be certain the strength is there, the biggest risk in my mind is that it will be a little off from what I have in mind and in that case I will most likely know which way to go. The biggest possible disaster would be to have cut to much from the liner somewhere and have to break out a spare cylinder, for now they are pretty easy to come by, woe the day when all you can find it the $20 Chinese cylinder, or an aftermarket cylinder. Anyhow I know I am well within the range of an agreesive trail style port, I could go with an MX , or drag port but they simply just wouldnt't suit my riding style, nor the purpose of being something the boys can control and ride with confidence

I think for now I will leave things where they are at and accept the possibility that I might have to raise my exhaust port another .010 or .015". And just enjoy the power for myself, I really don't want anyone copying me should I succeed, it took way to much reading and studying ,not to mention hours of practice and cutting
Then it took half the night last night to mapp it out, and transfer it to the computer where I can mirror an intake window, as well as the better looking half of my exhaust port. This way I can save this map and note how it worked, if I need to make changes I can simply make the adjustments on the computer and print out a new map that i can transfer onto something like thick card stock, or semi-flexible fiberglass sheeting.
Of course if you were going to do more than one motor trial and error go out the window and then you need software to handle all of part of the calculations, and preferably a simulator.
I have no desire to copy one persons work on one motor, because that teaches me zero, even being given the answer or buying the answer really doesn't teach you much either. Someone letting you know if the answer you worked out yourself is correct or not is learning, if my answer is wrong fine I will go back to the drawing board.
But anyhow delete this thread if it pleases you but I took the info available to me and worked out that the numbers I mentioned should suit my purposes. I know within the margin I mentioned is the characteristics I want.

Thanks for the concern, opinions are always appreciated, I will agree for many people the sport port package is the next obvious step beyond a basic cleanup, and frankly versus 20 or 30 hours of reading or study a good choice. It is just not the route I want to go as I am obviously a sucker for doing it the hard way.

Ride hard ride smart
DeeBeee
 
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Sounds like you have it worked out. Just remember to take notes on EVERYTHING. Nothing worse than going back to notes that you "thought" you wrote down. I've been there, and it sucks doing things twice.

Lol I hope I got it worked out, I am fairly confident that everything is close, as I am within a few degrees of stock, I changed my heights by degrees then converted that to measurements. At one point just before mapping out my ports, double, and triple checking that my numbers matched what was really there, I ran across a blaster specific, post or article. I am not sure where I found it and couldn't get back to it because I had sooo many pages of reading in it, but it spit out some numbers and what I got in mind fell right in between what was labeled as a general trail port (smooth stock like power) and an MX port. (Strong mid/high rpm range with a stout on the pipe hit)

Anyhow thanks again,
Deebeee
 
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It would be cool to see your results on a dyno compared to a stock curve.
 
Easy quick tune is do a clean up port, double up base gaskets, get the head cut.
Allot is also in the exhaust shape and not just the timings on how the power will hit.

Most importantly like Joeak said, "take notes, plenty of notes" you can never have to many notes
 
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I don't know where there is a dyno nearby. But i will at least get a vid of it running and maybe see If someone will record a WOT pass when I get it jetted.

I wouldnt mind having about an hour or so to do a dyno passes with a couple different main jets and needle settings, paticularly would like to do so on one that can measure Air Fuel ratio, and vary the throttle slowly during a high gear low rpm run, or make some passes at 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and 7/8 throttle settings just to get an idea of how my needle and NJ combination is working. and where it is on, rich, or lean. I am not really sure if reading AFR thru the exhaust works so well on a two stroke due to mixture being able to bypass the cylinder completely unburnt.

Anyhow I just now accepted a ppal that will cover the machining expenses, boxing up my cylinder and head tommorow, and off to KOR for some milling machine magic. I am super stoked.

Before I send them off I need to go ahead and take some more pics at the 90% stage, I believe the intake is where I want It, I ended up texturing it with a 40 grit flap wheel. I am not going fool with transfers unless I am urged not to spread the transfer timing by a couple degrees, I don't really have the tools to work on them properly.
The exhaust I may still need to bring up a bit, but prefer to wait until I have mocked up the engine, and degreed it in as best I can. This doesn't upset me at all because it will allow me a chance to do a little chamfering, I am not sure but I might need to do it all? Not that the exhaust port it the place to practice chamfering, but with a light enough touch and possibly something to protect the freshly honed walls I think i can pull it off.
 
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Chamfer the ports, or multiple sets of pistonrings will chamfer it eventually for you....:confused:
And be prepared to try different pipe's and carbs,base gaskets and so on to get everything including the portjob to work in harmony to get exactly the end result for your needs,sometimes a little change can make a big difference....
Keep up the good work;)
 
All I know is you lost me at "currently I am...."

I does get a little hairy. I only know how to simplify it a bit by comparing it to the cam and valve setup on a fourstroke.
The port timing, height or top of port window is like the cam timing on a 4 stroke the higher the port the sooner in the cycle the piston moves off of the port and opens it the longer the duration.
The width of the port window is similar to the valve lift. The size of the port tunnel is the same as the size of a port tunnel on a 4 stroke.
The transfer ports work pretty much the same as above, and are comparable to the intake valves on a 4 stroke as they actually let the fuel mixture into cylinder.
This is complicated by the fact that unlike with a cam the exhaust cannot be closed whenever it must wait for the piston to come back up and cover the port. This leaves time for the fuel mixture to go right out the exhaust if it is not aimed properly.

It gets even more complicated when you start thinking about how the mixture makes its way from the carb through the reeds up under the piston through the transfers, then pushes the rest of the exhaust out as it enters the cylinder, all without getting mixed up with the exhaust fumes or blowing right on out that open exhaust port.

Fortunately for us, we don't have to know squat about the inside of the motor to rip and ride.
 
Don't forget to re-chamber a head for the porting your doing. They go hand in hand. A ported cylinder without a re-chambered head is just dumb. The stock head's chamber shape is as bad as it gets. Trust me.
 
And I almost forgot... Set the squish at .030 - .045 A nice range that works well!
Thanks for that, I knew that squish height was important,but somehow for got to write it up /draw it up in my notes. Could have spent a long time going back through a half dozen docs over 100 pages long, and dozens more websites. To find not only recomended height but the series of calculations and or reasons for a particular number.
I tha k you.
 
When I was experimenting with re-chambering heads, I had eight heads I was doing at the same time! That's right eight (8)! All in different stages of cutting and chamber volumes. It was pretty neat to have that many heads on the bench to experiment with. It looked strange when I would unload 8 re-chambered heads at the riding area on the tail gate. People would come up and ask what I was doing. Lots of fun experimenting!
 
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When I was experimenting with re-chambering heads, I had eight heads I was doing at the same time! That's right eight (8)! All in different stages of cutting and chamber volumes. It was pretty neat to have that many heads on the bench to experiment with. It looked strange when I would unload 8 re-chambered heads at the riding area on the tail gate. People would come up and ask what I was doing. Lots of fun experimenting!

I haven't got that far yet. Right now I am working on some porting basics, and trying to get my carb tuning skills up to par, I would be quite interested to see your notes on the various head shapes and sizes, i know I want to end up with pump gas friendly compression, and would prefer a shape that enhances midrange performance since I went a little higher than I planned, I also want to help the midrange out as much as possible so that the boys have enough power to ride off the pipe and feel that enhancing the midrange rather than peak power rpm will help to even out the torque curve a little , where it doesn't go from barely pulling to kicking rocks without a warning.
Please let me know if the above thinking makes sense , and what your thoughts are on this as far as not only head shape but , keeping it versatile with enough power to scoot up small hills without being really on the pipe, I guess the best I can hope for is good midrange and a nice wide band.
Lol being my first port job I figure it would take a lot of blind luck to get this.
Anyhow anything you can think of that might help , I am all ears.
 
Here's my thoughts... Porting increases the TORQUE in the ENTIRE power band... Period!!! Yes there is wild porting that only comes on like a light switch in the upper rpm range. I get that. However, a good solid desert port/trail port, call it what you want, is going to do very nice things! A re-chambered head improves this even more by producing BETTER COMBUSTION, or in other words a more complete burn of the air fuel mix. I personally wouldn't waste my time learning better jetting techniques until that engine has a re-chambered "Hemi" head of around 19cc - 23cc's and squish set between .030 - .045 . If your using a stock head, your basically (in my opinion) wasting your time trying to jet that ported cylinder. All or nothing is what I'm saying. I would also highly recommend matching the transfer ports to the engine case. There's noticeable power you can pick up there too, and can be accomplished with the engine assembled and in the frame. I would suggest stop splitting hairs with this porting. It sounds to me that your on the right track! A degree wheel is an indispensable tool, however remember that a lot of old school porting uses measurements based upon the top deck of a cylinder. This has been done for a long, long time and works very well. Don't get into splitting hairs too much, or you will become frustrated very quickly.
You can dyno an engine all you want to see what rpm range gives the most torque, most top end scream, etc , but in my opinion it is what it is, because in the real world, when you have that engine back together and your riding that blaster, your not thinking... "Am I in that rpm that the dyno said it was making the most power?". It doesn't happen. Your rolling on that throttle and seeing what it can do. The characteristics of HOW that engine runs while your riding it will become readily apparent while you riding it. There are too many variables, tire size, traction (tire slip on the terrain), gearing, jetting, etc , etc , etc , that will make all those numbers on paper irrelevant. This is why I suggested the porting templates. you don't have to use them, but you can learn from them. Besides, I we don't ride our blasters on dyno drive rollers. At least I don't. Dyno's also won't tell you how fast you will go around a track. A dyno is a tool, and that's it! It is by no means "the final word". That's bullshit.
Concentrate on a piston that is PROPERLY fitted to a round. strait bore with no taper and you will go far. So will your engine.