ok soo my 2005 blaster top part of the engine blew up today i was ridin in 2nd gear in the sand dunes just goin semi fast holdin it wot for a wile to get up a dune and banng it shut off and made a wierd noise. now the kick starter wont move at all! note if it helps to diagnose my problem, i use belray gear fixer for my transmison oil and i have a toomy pipe with stock silencer and inside of silencer cut out to be louder with holes drilled in the silencer shell also, and i was told i should take my airbox cover off for more power and then my grandpa put in 240 jet. and also the old owner of my blaster took off the oil thing that mixes oil into the gas or somthin like that so i asked my grandpa how to mix the gas he said just mix 5 gallons of gas with 1 liter of 10w 30 motor oil the brand is super tech i think, its from walmart. so what will i need to fix the quad and how do i do it, i cant pay to bring to a shop. thanks
poor blaster
- Thread starter fastblast2
- Start date
There are so many things wrong with that.
First off, you jetting sounds dangerously lean. Toomey recommends a 310 main jet with a no airbox lid. A 240 mainjet was simply not providing enough gasoline for the engine to stay cool.
Second, as stated above, you don't mix automotive motor oil with gasoline to make premix. It needs to be 2 stroke oil premixed with the gasoline IF you have your oil injection system deleted.
First off, you jetting sounds dangerously lean. Toomey recommends a 310 main jet with a no airbox lid. A 240 mainjet was simply not providing enough gasoline for the engine to stay cool.
Second, as stated above, you don't mix automotive motor oil with gasoline to make premix. It needs to be 2 stroke oil premixed with the gasoline IF you have your oil injection system deleted.
/\ /\ /\ /\ Just adding to the above, it needs to be oil designed for air cooled motorcycles.
You are going to possibly need a rebore and a new piston and rings.
We can talk you through the rebuild, so you can do it yourself and save money, just ask questions, that is why we are here.
You are going to possibly need a rebore and a new piston and rings.
We can talk you through the rebuild, so you can do it yourself and save money, just ask questions, that is why we are here.
wow car motor oil and you should always plug chop to confirm the jetting is correct, not just put a jet in and assume its right. if i were you i would never let grandpa touch or work on the blaster again.
Believe it or not.
If Grandpa rode 2 strokes when he was a boy, and mixed his own fuel, then in his mind, he got it right.
However, modern day motor cycles do poorly on plain old engine oil.
In the 50s, I raced a 197cc Villiers powered bike, and the recommended premix, was 16:1 with Castrol XL, 30 grade motor oil.
One had to shake the bike before you rode it to re-mix up the oil and fuel mixture in the tank.
It really did not smell too bad, but boy, what a lot of smoke!
If Grandpa rode 2 strokes when he was a boy, and mixed his own fuel, then in his mind, he got it right.
However, modern day motor cycles do poorly on plain old engine oil.
In the 50s, I raced a 197cc Villiers powered bike, and the recommended premix, was 16:1 with Castrol XL, 30 grade motor oil.
One had to shake the bike before you rode it to re-mix up the oil and fuel mixture in the tank.
It really did not smell too bad, but boy, what a lot of smoke!
yea true. but oils have also changed now. there dual compunds instead of a single one. 10w30 or 30.
When I first started in 2 strokes the realm of multigrade oil was just beginning.
Boy, that makes me feel old.
Wait on, I am old!
Boy, that makes me feel old.
Wait on, I am old!
use pre mix, get a new silincer, get a 300 jet, get a new piston and rings and get a brain.
now here's my advice get the motor serviced (bored) rejet with a 300-320main (most likely) get your topend together get a silencer that's all together cause your gonna lose backpressure/power with holes cut out of the silencer lose the lid on the air box cause that's what the bigger jet is for. Also it's typically 4 oz of PRE-MIX for every gallon of gas.
O yea blaster I remember haveing to do that with my dirtbike as well Id sit on it and shake the tank from side to side and rocking it back and forth as well. Cause my dad would always remind me lol. but mine was a mean SOB it was a ported 96 YZ250 with everything you could imagine. You couldent ride it anywhear without pulling a wheelie.
now here's my advice get the motor serviced (bored) rejet with a 300-320main (most likely) get your topend together get a silencer that's all together cause your gonna lose backpressure/power with holes cut out of the silencer lose the lid on the air box cause that's what the bigger jet is for. Also it's typically 4 oz of PRE-MIX for every gallon of gas.
O yea blaster I remember haveing to do that with my dirtbike as well Id sit on it and shake the tank from side to side and rocking it back and forth as well. Cause my dad would always remind me lol. but mine was a mean SOB it was a ported 96 YZ250 with everything you could imagine. You couldent ride it anywhear without pulling a wheelie.
Actually, 10w30 is an SAE 10w oil with special polymer (read: plastic like long molecules) Viscosity Index Improvers added to it. These long molecules tighten up with heat, imitating the viscosity of waxy molecules but not the protection. Like adding flour to the gravy, it thickens up the oil but not as good as starting with the thick stuff. If you are going to race or mow the lawn, 30w is a better oil than 10w30. It has more shear strength even if they have the same viscosity at temperature.
That is part of the reason 30w oil worked OK as premix back in the day, and 10w30 will not. Thin 10w30 down with gasoline, all you have is a 10w oil film.
Now caster bean oil, that is another thing and has always been in fashion...
Yup thats how it used to be.
So the old man atleast went with what he knew.
Run amsoil interceptor its cheap and easily found now at rural king.
I run it in all my 2 stroke stuff even the weed eater its quality stuff.
