please help

I think what he's trying to say is that he has a tranmission leak, on the shifter side. Like gear lube is dripping out, not air leaking in....

The best to diagnose an air leak is a leakdown tester and some soapy water. The wd-40 around the intake boot trick (and I don't know if I'd use brake cleaner...not only is it very poisonous, it has a tendency to eat plastic ) only diagnoses a problem you can spray wd 40 on. Most people don't soak the entire mating surface of the crankcase with wd40 while it's running and you can't soak the left side crank seal with it while it's running. Plus, if your carburetor isn't tuned in properly to begin with the idle can fluctuate on it's own without the help of wd40! lol.

If you suspect an air leak, either purchase a leak down tester or build one yourself. One of the members was peddling leakdown testers a while back for a pretty good price or you can build one for about $20. Worth every penny to keep your engine from grenading.
 
first off i would start to listen to the guys here and not some mechanic.. i hate when guys talk to car mechanics that have little to no 2 stroek knowledge and even less blaster specific knowledge. have you done the most basic sh*t liek disconnect tors and pbrake? cleaned the petcocks? what happens when you have your 260 jet in and you put the lid on? if it dosent bog out whith the lid on then you are lean with it off...
 
i do apreciate all the help that yall are tryen to give, and yall dont take this the wrong way, i have two threads goin on this issue, if your goin to try to hel me PLEAS READ ALL OF MY POST so you know what i have done and check all ready, when i put the 260 in it does not change anything, and i know im runnen lean, i want to know how to richen it up some, but ive been told that a jet any bigger than a 260 is way to big with the fresh topend and my mild mods, i do not have an airbox lid to put back on, my mechanic said air box lid want affect jetting that much, and im leaking oil out of trans, not sucking air in and im not sucking oil into topend from lower case either, thanks for all the help, now im tryen to figure out how to check my float level like my mechanic asked me too, so if someone can help me out with that and im also goin to put the 260 back in why i have carb apart, should i adjust the needle by moving clip down one? and thanks again for the help but once again please read all my post so u know where im at in the process of trouble shooting everything, (this post and bogging at operating temp) thanks
 
blasterfreek30 said:
thats a bad crank seal, which could be ur problem
Click to expand...
blaster freak, if you would please do what i have asked as nicly as i no how for everyone to do(read what i have posted that ive done and checked), i am leaking trans. oil on the ground, not sucking air in and causing trans oil and air to enter top end, i dont have any air leaks, i appreciate everyones help but if your not going to read the entire thread please dont post on it, "for the third time"!!!!!
thanks again
 
If he is the best motorcycle mechanic in your area I would hate for any of the other mechanics in your area to touch my bike. Just my opinion.
 
where do you think the trans fluid is comming from? if there is trans fluid leaking on the ground from the stator cover on the left side of the bike as you are setting on it then it is your crank seal. then crank seal holds the trans fluid back on that side of the motor and if it is leaking trans fluid then when the bike is running it is also sucking in air whichs makes you have a air leak. And i dont know why you are getting a attitude because everyone here is trying to help you out but you are the one not listening.
 
Scrappy said:
If he is the best motorcycle mechanic in your area I would hate for any of the other mechanics in your area to touch my bike. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

dude how would trans oil leaking on the ground be causing my problems? READ THE ENTIRE THREAD, this one and bogging at operating temp
 
and i apreciate the help but your not reading the post, I DONT HAVE ANY AIR LEAKS, I DONT HAVE ANY AIR LEAKS, I DONT HAVE ANY AIR LEAKS, THAT IS ATLEATS 8 TIMES I HAVE POSTED THIS ON THE THREADS, im not tryen to be an ass, im agravated cause i cant figure it out, and people are posting without reading entire post and understanding what i have trouble shot, sorry for being an ass if that is what u thank but facts are facts, everyone here swears about the leak down test and its been done, thanks again for the help everyone
 
welp I went and re-read everything, and I'm wondering if your float level is set incorrectly. Also maybe I missed it but I never seen where you actually did a leak down test, and I'm not talking spraying it with wd-40, I mean actaully getting (making or buying) a leak down tester and testing for leaks. I would try adjusting you floats and making sure they are correct, then go from there. Also I know you say that you don't have air leaks, but you have oil leaking, so that means that you could be getting some air in that way. I'm also in agreement that if that is the best mechanic in you area, I would be scared, taking you air box lid off can bump you up at least 2-3 jet sized easy enough to nuke your topend if you don't rejet.
 
edgeslade said:
if that is cover on shifter side yes
Click to expand...


that should be bone dry in there, that oil is coming from inside the engine, and it WILL suck air through there.


did you ever diagnose why it blew up and you had to rebuild it the first time? I'm saying its a bad stator side crank seal, and when you do a proper leakdown test with a home-built tester, you'll find it


you need to do a leakdown test like is shown in the link that i gave you, NOT just spraying with wd-40 or brake cleaner, otherwise you're not checking for a leak in the crank seals or the case halves.
 
i sell leak testers man 30 bucks to the door, pm me man


you have an airleak, matter of fact anyone who has never done a proper leak-down test has one ! you will lean out, sooner or later
 
stop listening to your mechanic guy if a leakdown test is performed with wd 40 or brake cleaner. works good for 4 strokes, or if it is an external air leak, but this isn't a 4 stroke and from what you have been discribing it isn't an external air leak either. everything these guys are saying to you on here is what you need to be paying attention too. AN OIL LEAK CAN EQUAL AN AIR LEAK!!!!!!!!! that would cause your problem . my buddy runs a 290 jet on his blaster which has almost the same upgrades as you and it runs perfectly
 
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