ok, here is where im at;leak down test has been done, no leak, petkock clean, 260 jet, other is stock,needle in center groove, air screw 2 turns out(ive tried all other adjustments here as well),float level dead on,air filter clean, new b8es plug(ive tried b7,b8 and b9), i put it back together, cranked first kick, with choke, went for a ride after 5min, it started bogging real bad, i pulled clutch, tryed feathering throttle and it died, sat there for 3 min cussing up a storm, then started kicking, finally it started ran like a top thru all gears wide open powerban every gear like a brand new quad all way to house, what in the hell is going on?????????its got be something simple that im over looken, when it starts to run like sh*t ive tried pullen choke, dosent help, what the f*%k??!!:-/
please help
- Thread starter edgeslade
- Start date
know you're not going to agree but it sounds just like a problem I had when my crank was starting to go. it was getting too hot and the piston was overheating bc of it. how's your piston looking? look and see if the needle bearings on the bottom of the rod are straight or crooked. if they are crooked don't run it anymore or you will be hating yourself very soon.
thats abrand new weisco with about two minutes on it talk about F#%^!
thats abrand new weisco with about two minutes on it talk about F#%^!
all sounds very familiar.... Don't mean to scare you but I would take a look. Anyone else agree? when I went through this I had just burnt up a piston, i bored it got a new piston it started and ran great! I broke it in properly, it was a little noisy, but didn't sound really bad. but when it got hot it would bog and feel almost like the brakes were being applied even when they weren't. then a piece of the bearing actually broke off and stabbed the top of the piston pinning one of the rings in place. I thought something had fallen in during assembly or something. another new piston no bore bc every thing looked fine. first time I gave it any gas that pic is what the piston looked like and you don't want to see the jug
thats not what its doin, it just bogs out, no weird noise and it will crank right back up, and its not locking up
ok i just went and got a 280 and a 300 didnt have 290, gona try the 280 first, when i was putting the 280 in i was double checking everything on the carb and i noticed several holes on the outside of carb that i could blow air through, is this supposed to be?like three or 4 diffrent holes,i know where gas line goes and the drain line on the bottom and previous owner drilled one hole out and put an idle adj, screw in, just dosent seem there should be holes on out side of carb that could suck or blow air through the carb, can someone post pics and explain what all these holes are for, and if lines need to be on them going where,is this my problem?
yep brass nipple, is that where oil injection was? and does it need to be pluged? and all other holes are supposed to be there? also where previous owner drilled out hole to put idle adj, through to the sliide, i mite be leaking there too, how do i make sure that dosent leak or does it matter, been told this is comen mod when tors has been removed
thanks
can i just put short piece of hose on it and screw in other end? also someone said about the reeds sliding back and forth, i noticed that too how can i correct that problem? when they are in proper position they close tightly
ok here is where im at, i had two air leaks, where oil injection tube goes in carb and where a hole was drilled in carb for idle screw, i fixed both of those and put in the 280, cranked first kick, let it warm up, adjusted air screw where it was runnen beter than it ever has, full throttle response, but i couldnt ride it because it was 1030 pm and rainen, i didnt want it to over heat so i cut it off then almost imediatly tried to crank it again and it would not crank, pulled plug and it was soaked. also as far as my trans leak there is a hole in bottom of case that has been JB welded and that is where it is comen from, also someone mentioned the reeds, there reeds were moven back in forth causing similar problems, i noticed same thing when i had mine apart, so if yall can please help me with these issues? since i fixed my air leaks do i need to go back to the 260 jet? or adjust my needle?
thanks,, i feel im getting close to fixing this cluster f*%k of a problem
thanks,, i feel im getting close to fixing this cluster f*%k of a problem
glad u are getting it figured, but i though you dint have any airleaks? lololol jk jk jk I:I
. im thinkin you are prolly too rich now, i would toss the 260 back in and see how she rips. i only had a 300 in when i had reeds, power pros exhaust adn no lid.
no air leaks eh??? hahahaha jk bro.
as far as the reeds try tighting the screws, or get some very small washers and put under the screws to try and tighten them up.
as far as the reeds try tighting the screws, or get some very small washers and put under the screws to try and tighten them up.
Great to hear you found those pesky air leaks! If you haven't already I would put the needle back to the original position. probably the third grove. then if that doesn't work I would decrease the jet size. a lot harder to hurt something besides plugs runnin rich
i never moved the needle, it is in the middle grove, im beggining to thank the reeds are a problem i can move them side to side and back and forth, they are vforce3, no screws to thighten so how do i stop them from moving? and could this be my problem? still doin same thing runs fine for awhile then bogs out and dies, i havent been able to ride it since found air leaks in carb but after it runs for awhile, and i cut it off it want start back up, i remove plug and its soaked, im goin out to my shop now to put the 260 jet back in, could my pilot jet have anything to do with this issue? its stock
ok i fixed my loose reed petals, put the 260 jet bacl in, it cranks right up , still havent been able to ride it because of the rain but when i puul the plug out its soaken wet, and when i had reed cage out it was soaked in gas,, so,,,,,,????? i dont know what else to do other than tear apart the crank case and if i do that is there away to get the flywheel off without a puller? and how big of a deal is it to rebuild the botom end ? i just would realy hate to go through all the trouble an the crank case if this is not the problem, but it seams like ive checked everything else, except electrical and i dont know of anything electrical that would cause my problems
if there is oil inside the case with your stator i would start with a crank seal. its cheaper than a bottom end and not very hard to replace. if there isn't and it was just the one on the bottom of the case idk what to tell you other than to def not run a 230 jet with no air lid. although you may want a little smaller than a 260 cause my friend runs a 270 with no lid and a FMF Pipe
If you decide to do the left crank seal, you will have to buy the correct flywheel puller. It is impossible to do without one. You would also benefit from the use of an impact wrench. Without one you will need a flywheel holding tool or strap wrench.
A good thing to do either way, but I don't see how it will help your wet plug. Wet reeds are normal.
A good thing to do either way, but I don't see how it will help your wet plug. Wet reeds are normal.
