What fluid in the right side of the case were the plug is and should I see the fluid I put in were the plug goes in the sight glass
oil
- Thread starter blastblast
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its transmission oil. there are different choices on what to use, you can check the search tab with transmission oil and see what types are avalible to you. i use ATF Type F 630ml
Ok thinks I've been reading up on the fluids that people are using and got some good ideas thinks for the help
Use ether automotive Type F transmission fluid or an oil designed for wet clutch use. Most motorcycle oils.
50 grade is a little to heavy, it can cause drag and slippage problems.
Manual call for 10W 30, although many guys run ATF type F with great results.
thinner viscosity means less drag, its MADE for wet clutches and the coloring is easier to see in the window+ easier identifiable contamination! i change mine twice a season depending on hours used and at 3.50 a quart, who can gripe? good stuff in my opinion...
Thinner viscosity also means more oil is forced from between the clutch plates when they engage, creating great lock up and less slippage.
Hang it fellas, you have convinced me to try ATF, I have been toying with it for a while.
Now is the time to pull the clutch out and flush and wash the plates.I:I
You should use only 650ml of oil, no more, no less.
The sight glass has been known to lie, or be so discoloured or dirty that you cannot see through it.
Drain the old oil out, and refill with 650ml of fresh stuff.
^^^another convert!!! like with anything, it has its advantages and dis advantages, i always notice a pretty big improvement when i convert to atf. my sons yz125 was a big one, the po was using 80-90w. and not to knock anyone who uses it but what a improvement going to atf. the clutch engaged quicker, with less drag. easier lever action (go ahead, tell me im wrong) and quicker rev. i know the nay sayers are gonna check me on that but it sure does feel quicker and less boggy. i guess with anything that has less mass to move or resistance youll see and improvement. maybe thats why some of us older guys arent such big fans of o ring chains, more mass moved equals more power used to move it. imo, ive used atf type f in all my wet clutch apps for a long time with no adverse effects. let us know what you think Blaaster. as a first time user, youll give a better and less biased opinion...
I am going to do it properly, and dissamble the clutch and completly remove the old oil from the system, as I am an avid believer that different oils do not mix.
It wont happen for a while as I have only just serviced our bikes, and although ATF is comparitively cheap, I don't like wasting money.
I can see where you are coming from about lighter lever action, less friction anywhere makes for smoother operation.
When I make the change over I will start a thread, if someone does not beat me to it.
I get confused and concerned, when folks say that they use Bel-Ray 80w 90 oil, because it is a hypoid oil, not recommended for wet clutches, see below, taken from the Bel-Ray site.
Or are they simply mis quoting what they are using.
Bel-Ray® Gear Saver Hypoid Gear Oil features Bel-Ray’s state-of-the-art Extreme Pressure chemistry to give unsurpassed protection for heavily-loaded shaft drive and final drive units including limited slip differentials. Meets or exceeds API GL-4 and GL-5 requirements. Not recommended for wet clutches.
99230 80W-90
99234 85W-140
Bel-Ray® Gear Saver Transmission Oil is a gear oil that has been developed for the unique demands of all motorcycle transmissions equipped with wet clutches. Bel-Ray Gear Saver Transmission Oil flows freely for better clutch cooling and provides positive clutch engagement for better starts and longer clutch life while protecting highly-loaded gears from wear, ensuring smooth shifts for more positive action.
99240 75W
99250 80W
Bel-Ray® Thumper Gear Saver Transmission Oil is a premium 4-stroke transmission oil that has been developed for the unique demands of 4-stroke motorcycles equipped with separate engines and transmissions. Formulated with extra protection for gears and bearings subject to high torque loads of today’s powerful 4-stroke Thumper engines. This multi-viscosity formula flows freely for better clutch cooling and provides positive clutch engagement for better starts and longer clutch life while protecting highly-loaded gears from wear, ensuring smooth shifts for more positive action.
80W-85
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thats a pretty good point. it is possible that with those products all being the brand 'Bel-Ray Gear Saver' that someone who didnt do the research might just pic anyone of them and think its ok to use.
Blaaster, don't bother. Too much work unless it is slipping badly. Just change it. The little bit left over doesn't matter much.
I have used ATF type F to rescue several motor cycle clutches slipping from 10w30 use over the years. My son's DT200 was the latest example. Usually one oil change would restore the clutch, but even a badly slipping one might take 2 or 3 oil changes spaced a week or two apart with gentle use until the plates clean and seat.
ATF is 10w mineral oil, the same base as 10w30 but different additives. The 10w30 uses polymer (like in rubber or plastic!) additives to increase the viscosity and a water dispersant (like a soap) to hold water in suspension and just a mild detergent (cleaner, not a soap, more like penetrating oil). The ATF does not have the water dispersant, or viscosity improver. The two oils will mix without problems. Motor oil will work in your automatic transmission in a pinch but sluggish shifting due to viscosity and burnt bands due to the friction improvers will result.
I use ATF in my bike transmissions in the winter, but I prefer to up the viscosity with the heat of summer. I get fewer leaks and less use (needing top up) with 15w40 or specific bike gearbox oils.
You can feel the difference. ATF makes for a nice feeling clutch, less drag, but sometimes makes shifting harder or rougher. 20w50 or heavy gear oils have got to be the worst on clutch action, drag and shifting.
Thanks for the input.
The clutch is like new and never slips.
The reason I was toying about running ATF is because a lot of guys rave about it.
We live in a high temp area, and it never really gets cold, so in your opinion is it really worth the change.
I have no problems with the 10W 30 motor oil, it is working just fine.
This my Blaster after 3 days of hard running in warm (22-27 degree C) weather and lots of mud.
You notice the slight stain of oil in the dried mud?
This engine typically does not leak or drip oil but the ATF is thin enough to weep around the seals in warm weather.
A little weepage is not a bad thing. The KTM has a poor countershaft seal design, you may not have this problem with a Blaster engine.
I must use ATF in our cold weather (-10C) in my bikes to get the clutch to work and reduce drag and gearbox friction.
your blaster is liquid cooled also with the ktm. wouldnt that make it run cooler than an air cooled engine???This my Blaster after 3 days of hard running in warm (22-27 degree C) weather and lots of mud.
You notice the slight stain of oil in the dried mud?
This engine typically does not leak or drip oil but the ATF is thin enough to weep around the seals in warm weather.
A little weepage is not a bad thing. The KTM has a poor countershaft seal design, you may not have this problem with a Blaster engine.
I must use ATF in our cold weather (-10C) in my bikes to get the clutch to work and reduce drag and gearbox friction.
Probably not. It is also 45-50hp and power makes heat.
It is thermostatically controlled so stays warmer than aircooled in easy riding.
I would guess that both engines would see similar gearbox temperatures.
The KTM engine does have an admittedly poor counter shaft seal design, the Blaster 200 may seal ATF better in warm weather.
