Not wanting to start!!

I do believe that the pressure gauge is blocked off when doing a compression test, and will not leak back into the cylinder. Thats why the pressure held for such a long time.

A leak down test is performed by blocking off the exhaust, and pressureising the carby boot at 7 psi. I f the pressure drops within 5 mins you haver a leak.
 
97blastermx130 said:
1Lol I know a compressing test wouldn't spot out an air leak but I assumed that if it held the same psi that it kind of meant that I didn't have an air leak. Like if the compression went down it meant I did have an air leak, is that wrong?
2 yes I forgot to pull the choke out, I started it before that video and thought it would start without the choke but it doesn't want to start at all unless it is out.
3 How would you check that? By a voltage regulator/reader.
4 I would like to do a legit leak down test but moneys tight since I just got laid off from work.
Click to expand...

1.That is wrong.

2.Sounds like the pilot circut needs cleaned. I read you already have the floats adjusted correctly right and cleaned the carb? did you remove the pilot and main jet, choke assembly- spray cleaner in all the ports/orfices and then do the same with the pilot and main jet, choke valve? You'd be amazed what a tiny spec of dirt can do(experience talking here). If all of that checks out, I'll have to let another member try some help as i'm out of ideas.

3. With a leaktester tool. I sell them, or it can be made. You remove your carb and exhaust, put the adapter from the tool into your intake boot tighten clamp, block exhaust port off, with a plug or as i use a piece of old innertube sandwiched between the exhaust port (motorside) and the flange from the pipe. Put approx 7psi in using a bicycle pump (i use my compressor, but i don't recommend that) as you can blow the gaskets if you put too much air in they you will definetly have a leak! Leave it sit for 5 minutes if ya loose more than 1psi you have an air leak. Then you must use soapy water to find where it is leaking. Most common places are intake(where the reedcage is), base gasket where top end bolts to bottom end, crank seals.

4. That sucks- I would be willing to mail a tester to ya to borrow, as long as it gets mailed back to me within in a reasonable amount of time say two weeks? Pm your address if interested!
 
Originally Posted by Blaaster I do believe that the pressure gauge is blocked off when doing a compression test, and will not leak back into the cylinder. Thats why the pressure held for such a long time.

A leak down test is performed by blocking off the exhaust, and pressureising the carby boot at 7 psi. I f the pressure drops within 5 mins you haver a leak.
Click to expand...



I may have done the pressure test wrong then, when doing it I put the piston at the bottom of the jug where it was under the ports, kicked it 10-15 times with WOT. Is that the way your supposed to do it?
 
97blastermx130 said:
I may have done the pressure test wrong then, when doing it I put the piston at the bottom of the jug where it was under the ports, kicked it 10-15 times with WOT. Is that the way your supposed to do it?
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter where the piston is at. The rest of it you got right! Ya keep kicking until the compression tester gauge stop increasing!
 
Originally Posted by slickerthanyou
2.Sounds like the pilot circut needs cleaned. I read you already have the floats adjusted correctly right and cleaned the carb? did you remove the pilot and main jet, choke assembly- spray cleaner in all the ports/orfices and then do the same with the pilot and main jet, choke valve? You'd be amazed what a tiny spec of dirt can do(experience talking here). If all of that checks out, I'll have to let another member try some help as i'm out of ideas.

3. With a leaktester tool. I sell them, or it can be made. You remove your carb and exhaust, put the adapter from the tool into your intake boot tighten clamp, block exhaust port off, with a plug or as i use a piece of old innertube sandwiched between the exhaust port (motorside) and the flange from the pipe. Put approx 7psi in using a bicycle pump (i use my compressor, but i don't recommend that) as you can blow the gaskets if you put too much air in they you will definetly have a leak! Leave it sit for 5 minutes if ya loose more than 1psi you have an air leak. Then you must use soapy water to find where it is leaking. Most common places are intake(where the reedcage is), base gasket where top end bolts to bottom end, crank seals.

4. That sucks- I would be willing to mail a tester to ya to borrow, as long as it gets mailed back to me within in a reasonable amount of time say two weeks? Pm your address if interested!
Click to expand...


2. Yes I removed all of the jets the choke, air/fuel screw and the float bowl needle and brass part underneath. I seen somewhere on here where a guy did a toothpaste and q-tip strick with the brass part holding the needle to the float, I did that trick then sprayed the rest with carb cleaner are blew all of it out with compressed air and cleaned with a q-tip all the other parts.

3. I looked up the leak down tester and tried to make my own, I put a old break pad off of the blasty in the exhaust port with a rubber washer in front of it then put a metal fastener to hold it. Then I rigged up an old bicycle pump with a big metal washer and another rubber washer to put in the carb boot, and tightened it down with the clamp on the boot. I don't think it worked too well because it wouldn't hold air and i didn't have a gauge on it to tell if it really was or not.

4. Man that would be awesome, I could have it sent back two days after i recieved it lol. Yes I'll PM you. Thank you.
 
Update: I finally did a leak down on the blasty the other day, thanks to slick for the tester! I had some little pin hole leaks aroung the reed cage that I got fixed. I got the blaster to start now and kind of stay running, it revs up high still. I cleaned the carb again and checked the reeds, tried adjusting the fuel/air screw and idle but nothing changed. Also tried adjusting the float because its dripping gas out of the overflow, quit frequently. Does this sound like a carb issue that's causing my problem, and how could I check that for sure? Oh and another thing; I keep running out of tranny/clutch oil, it's not leaking onto the ground so does that mean it has a bad seal, to where I'm burning it or something?
 
Hey bro, It does sound like a carb issue to me But the loss of fluid is concerning. If ya did a leak test and after you fixed the intake leak did ya do another leak test and it held 7 or so psi for 5 minutes? If so I'd say the seals are good, and it has to be leaking out somewhere. Your gonna make me drive to indiana aren't u!
 
Yeah I did about 3 more after just to see. That's what I was saying, I looked under where the blaster sits and don't see any oil marks, maybe I'm just being paranoid I'll check here in a few to see if it came back because I just started it and it might have just been on the gears still? But I would think that some would be visible in the glass piece still, right? Haha I wish I could just send this thing to you and have you look at it haha I don't trust the shops around here they rip you off!
 
I never trust that sight glass, I drain and refill with 650ml, to be sure.

There is only a couple of places the tranny oil can go, drip out, go through the breather, go past the output shaft seal, or into the crankcase.

If it is getting into the crankcase it is going to make the exhaust smoke white and smell bad.

Other escapes are going to show eventually on the floor.

On a lighter note, I would rather Slick drive to Indiana, than me drive from there from Aussie.
 
Originally Posted by Blaaster

I never trust that sight glass, I drain and refill with 650ml, to be sure.

There is only a couple of places the tranny oil can go, drip out, go through the breather, go past the output shaft seal, or into the crankcase.

If it is getting into the crankcase it is going to make the exhaust smoke white and smell bad.

Other escapes are going to show eventually on the floor.

On a lighter note, I would rather Slick drive to Indiana, than me drive from there from Aussie.
Click to expand...

I think it may be going into the crankcase then, it doesn't smoke THAT bad but I believe it's a whiteish color and it does smell bad, I just thought the smell was from the old packing in the exhaust that was still coming through the new packing I just put in. Yeah I think Australia is a little further lol. I'll also drain the fluid and start over.
 
97blastermx130 said:
I think it may be going into the crankcase then, it doesn't smoke THAT bad but I believe it's a whiteish color and it does smell bad, I just thought the smell was from the old packing in the exhaust that was still coming through the new packing I just put in. Yeah I think Australia is a little further lol. I'll also drain the fluid and start over.
Click to expand...

Sorry bro my phone died on me, Forgot to charge it last evening. When you run the motor it does take a bit till it reaches the site glass and levels out. I'd drain it out , put 650ML in like blaaster said and monitor it. i don't hold too much on the site glass either as after a few rides it's so dark in there I can't tell.

And when you take the drain plug off look for a copper washer on there if it's missing that may be your problem, SIcivic gave a part number for a nylon washer you can get at any autopart store. I'll see if i can find that number...
 
If it smells bad it sounds like tranny oil getting into the crank case.
Cant see how it is getting into the crank area as you say the leak down test was good.

Do another one to be sure.
 
Originally Posted by slickerthanyou
Sorry bro my phone died on me, Forgot to charge it last evening. When you run the motor it does take a bit till it reaches the site glass and levels out. I'd drain it out , put 650ML in like blaaster said and monitor it. i don't hold too much on the site glass either as after a few rides it's so dark in there I can't tell.

And when you take the drain plug off look for a copper washer on there if it's missing that may be your problem, SIcivic gave a part number for a nylon washer you can get at any autopart store. I'll see if i can find that number...
Click to expand...

Okay I'll do like you guys said. It does have the washer but I think that's why it leaks, may be damaged or something. Never paid much attention to it.
 
Originally Posted by Blaaster
If it smells bad it sounds like tranny oil getting into the crank case.
Cant see how it is getting into the crank area as you say the leak down test was good.

Do another one to be sure.
Click to expand...

I'll try another one here shortly and see, is it correct that if the psi only goes down less than 1psi after 5 mins that it's still fine or does that mean I still have a leak?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

2006Blaster200
06 blaster wont start
Replies
1
Views
212
Engine
notsofast
N
2006Blaster200
Blaster idles for a couple seconds then dies
Replies
0
Views
140
Engine
2006Blaster200
2006Blaster200
jgroot
New blaster won't start
Replies
1
Views
197
Engine
notsofast
N
E
Can’t get 2000 blaster to start
Replies
0
Views
224
Engine
Espen37
E
lightwylin19
05 blaster has no power at all
Replies
1
Views
131
Engine
YZ Otis
YZ Otis
Top Bottom
Back