Not wanting to start!!

[97blastermx130]

I really think your issue is spark related. Like I said, you can run richer than a MOFO on the pilot and it will still start. Especially if you give a little bit of throttle.

Digital multimeter is a tool. You can measure resistance of circuits, continunity, AC/VC voltage, and sometimes amps. In my opinion its a must have if you own one of these things. Every single electrical system check requires you to use one. You can get a relatively cheap one that works well from any hardware store. You should really get one, use the internet to read about how it works (or read the instructions if it comes with any), and take off your seat, and unplug the orange wire that feeds the ignition coil, and use the DMM red to the orange, black to ground, and have a buddy kick it over and see if you get voltage on a kick. You should be around 7-12 volts on a kick. That should produce enough voltage to spark.

Your issues sound just like mine when my stator went out.

Okay I will check into that when I get the chance to, if my reading aren't between the 7-12 volts then my stator would be my only problem? I know a while back I took off my flywheel to check and see if I sheard my flywheel key and my stator was kind of rusty and dirty, could that be a problem also?

 

[Larry's Shee]

Some say yes, some say no. On my son's Banshee Banshee I cleaned the poles on the stator and timing "nubs" on out side of flywheel to clear up a onesided misfire, so I say it can't hurt. Also clean all connections and grounds, see if that helps

 

[97blastermx130]

[QOUTE]
Some say yes, some say no. On my son's Banshee Banshee I cleaned the poles on the stator and timing "nubs" on out side of flywheel to clear up a onesided misfire, so I say it can't hurt. Also clean all connections and grounds, see if that helps
[/QUOTE]


Okay I'm out of town for work so when I get back I'll try that. Could I just take a wire brush to it to clean it? Oh and also when I checked it last the stator coils (black things with copper inside them) I'm guessing that's what those are. One of those had a crack in the cover plate thing that wraps the copper, by having a crack in it make it lose power by any chance?

 

[Larry's Shee]

I would clean it with a 3M scotchbrite pad by hand, no ooops. Or medium emerycloth. Blow out dust. As long as it ohms out correct no problem. I would use something to seal it from moisture. Also check cover gasket while off, use some sealer if it looks bad, and seal where wires exit.

 

[97blastermx130]

I would clean it with a 3M scotchbrite pad by hand, no ooops. Or medium emerycloth. Blow out dust. As long as it ohms out correct no problem. I would use something to seal it from moisture. Also check cover gasket while off, use some sealer if it looks bad, and seal where wires exit.

Yeah I think that would work better then a wire brush lol. Thanks for the help.

 

[97blastermx130]

Okay so I finally got around to messing with the blaster again, I did a compression test that read 120psi. Checked my reeds they are fine no cracks or gaps or anything, I'm getting good fuel, and good spark. I recorded a couple of videos to see if you guys can help me to see whats wrong. The other video wouldn't upload, I'll try again but here's the first video. Also, where is a better place to upload my videos because photobucket make the quality of the video sh*tty.

 

[97blastermx130]

Mobile Uploads :: IMG_4576.mp4 video by fellowpimp69 - Photobucket

 

[BlastinByYou]

Its really sounded like the carb is either gunked up or try adjusting the idle screw and the throttle cable

 

[97blastermx130]

It really sounded like the carb is either gunked up or try adjusting the idle screw and the throttle cable

I cleaned the carb out completely before the video, yeah I tried adjusting the idle screw but it was already all the way in, and it was still reving high so I tried to adjust the air/fuel screw and it wanted to just rev higher. It's backed out at 1 3/4. & adjusting the throttle cable how? inside of the throttle body or on the cap of the carb?

 

[97blastermx130]

BUMP anyone else have any feed back?

 

[Blaaster]

I have been reading through the posts and I cannot recall you mentioning that you have done a leak down test.

Could you have an air leak somewhere?

 

[97blastermx130]

I have been reading through the posts and I cannot recall you mentioning that you have done a leak down test.

Could you have an air leak somewhere?

I thought I might have an air leak, but doing the compression test and it staying at a solid 120 not ever more or less that it meant I didn't have one. I rigged up my own leak down tester and couldn't find any leaks, but it was a rigged up one so who knows.

 

[Scrappy]

Have you checked to make sure your slide is seated all the way down in carb?

 

[97blastermx130]

Have you checked to make sure your slide is seated all the way down in carb?

It doesn't touch all the way, there's like. 2/8 of an inch gap or less, does it have to be seated all the way down because the TORS/idle is all the way turned in.

 

[BlastinByYou]

I cleaned the carb out completely before the video, yeah I tried adjusting the idle screw but it was already all the way in, and it was still reving high so I tried to adjust the air/fuel screw and it wanted to just rev higher. It's backed out at 1 3/4. & adjusting the throttle cable how? inside of the throttle body or on the cap of the carb?

It would be the cap and at the throttle

 

[97blastermx130]

It would be the cap and at the throttle

Okay yeah I tried to adjust both of them today, and still nothing.

 

[Awk08]

assuming all the above possible causes have been tested and eliminated
does this carb still have the tors unit on top ???
sumthin tellin me that the idle screw having no effect, there is something possibly hanging up inside the tors box, the side removes with a few screws to veiw the internals
and pull the cap off the throttle, to see if the cable end is fully returning to eliminate a frayed/sticking throttle cable

 

[slickerthanyou]

I thought I might have an air leak, but doing the compression test and it staying at a solid 120 not ever more or less that it meant I didn't have one. I rigged up my own leak down tester and couldn't find any leaks, but it was a rigged up one so who knows.

A compression test isn't going to find an airleak.

And I noticed that when you first went to start it sounds like you forgot to either turn the switch to run or pull the choke out the first time?

However I have had issues with a intermittent coil/plug cap being bad.

I would do a Air leak test, not with a compression tester, and see if the jug holds 7psi for 5 minutes. It sounds like you have an airleak when it's zigging!

I also wouldn't rule out a tors issue!

 

[97blastermx130]

assuming all the above possible causes have been tested and eliminated
does this carb still have the tors unit on top ???
sumthin tellin me that the idle screw having no effect, there is something possibly hanging up inside the tors box, the side removes with a few screws to veiw the internals
and pull the cap off the throttle, to see if the cable end is fully returning to eliminate a frayed/sticking throttle cable

Yes the TORS is still on top of the carb, I have taken the side plate that you are talking about off and check to see if anything was sticking but I couldn't see a problem as I did it numerous times and also put more grease on the levers inside of it. The only thing that I did see was the routing of the throttle cable but I re routed it today and still got the same.

 

[97blastermx130]

1A compression test isn't going to find an airleak.

2And I noticed that when you first went to start it sounds like you forgot to either turn the switch to run or pull the choke out the first time?

3However I have had issues with a intermittent coil/plug cap being bad.

4I would do a Air leak test, not with a compression tester, and see if the jug holds 7psi for 5 minutes. It sounds like you have an airleak when it's zigging!

I also wouldn't rule out a tors issue!

1Lol I know a compressing test wouldn't spot out an air leak but I assumed that if it held the same psi that it kind of meant that I didn't have an air leak. Like if the compression went down it meant I did have an air leak, is that wrong?
2 yes I forgot to pull the choke out, I started it before that video and thought it would start without the choke but it doesn't want to start at all unless it is out.
3 How would you check that? By a voltage regulator/reader.
4 I would like to do a legit leak down test but moneys tight since I just got laid off from work.