No Spark? No power from CDI Stator Bad?

MotorsportsLHC

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Mar 21, 2015
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Hey everyone been reading through just about every post on the internet about Blasters and this thing has got me stumped. Previous owner tore into this thing like a pack rat and most of the wires have been cut and spliced multiple times. So everything is hard to trace. But supposedly it ran before the current owner rewired it trying to get the headlights to work. He didn't get them to work but lost spark for some reason. (found the error with the headlights the connector from the switch to loom is bad.)

1980-1990s blaster with the Tors removed. No spark to the coil and the voltage coming out of the stator while kicking it is barely a volt on both the red/yellow and the black/white. What current it does produce passes to the CDI and nothing 0v comes out the orange wire to the coil. I redid the ground (and I say "the ground" because everything but the voltage rectifier is wired to the ground on the coil.)

I think the stator is bad? I did a resistance ohm test on the stator and it came back within the safe zone, but then again its 90 degrees outside so that measurement might be wrong.

Any help is appreciated!
 
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Hard to tell, I think its stock. Has Black, Black/red, red/white, and red/yellow coming out

thats the correct 4 wire stator for those years you listed
use the link above to troubleshoot it.
 
hopefully it has the 88-02 cdi on it/and did not get replaced with a 03-06 acidentally
got pics? probably still work around that though:)
 
Right on, but how much power should be coming out the stator normally when kicking? I'm only registering like .24-1 volt at most.
 
Right on, but how much power should be coming out the stator normally when kicking? I'm only registering like .24-1 volt at most.

I've never tried that, or seen anyone else post results of a voltage test for the ignition system.
is it possible it's happening too quick for a digital meter to read ?
 
I've never tried that, or seen anyone else post results of a voltage test for the ignition system.
is it possible it's happening too quick for a digital meter to read ?
Thats something I was thinking about too. The only thing with it being the CDI is the owner swears it ran before he messed with the wiring. But looking at it I don't see how messing with the headlight wires would stop it from running unless the first guy unhooked the headlight to bypass the cdi somehow
 
check all wiring to be sure he has no solid black wire is tied to any black/white stripe wires.
thats what gets connected by either kill/key switch to short out the ignition and kill the spark.
also, unplug both kill and key switch one at a time to eliminate those as the problem
 
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check all wiring to be sure he has no solid black wire is tied to any black/white stripe wires.
thats what gets connected by either kill/key switch to short out the ignition and kill the spark.
also, unplug both kill and key switch one at a time to eliminate those as the problem

yup:)
 
By the way thanks for the help everyone!
check all wiring to be sure he has no solid black wire is tied to any black/white stripe wires.
thats what gets connected by either kill/key switch to short out the ignition and kill the spark.
also, unplug both kill and key switch one at a time to eliminate those as the problem
Key has been removed and its wires look like it was looped black to while/black. I unplugged it and I got it to start for only a second? Now it has intermittent spark?
 
By the way thanks for the help everyone!

Key has been removed and its wires look like it was looped black to while/black. I unplugged it and I got it to start for only a second? Now it has intermittent spark?

make sure the black/white stripe is taped off and not grounded to the frame.
1 to each switch, check them both, taped off or connected to open switch.

try a new plug, check all connections, good ground at coil to bare frame ?

and you may have the bottom end flooded from trying to start it.
remove plug and pipe, fuel turned off and carb drained, hold throttle wide open
and kick till your leg hurts to get excess fuel out of bottom end.
 
make sure the black/white stripe is taped off and not grounded to the frame.
1 to each switch, check them both, taped off or connected to open switch.

try a new plug, check all connections, good ground at coil to bare frame ?

and you may have the bottom end flooded from trying to start it.
remove plug and pipe, fuel turned off and carb drained, hold throttle wide open
and kick till your leg hurts to get excess fuel out of bottom end.

Right on thanks for all the help I tried changing out the plug and I kicked like a s.o.b on it for a while with the plug out and tried it again. No luck but I'll work on it so more later on and post an update. I already redid the ground connectors so I'm going to grind off some paint under the coil mounts and remount it. I'll also double check all wires.

Also the motor is really tired (worn) and I can spot some pieces of metal on the plug (not much but its there). Would that have any affect on the spark?
 
check spark with new plug, holding it against the cylinder.
compression test again, anywhere around/under 100 and it's gonna be tough to start
 
I was baffled by the 68* test temp when I was trying to check a Warrior in 0*. An electrical engineer could tell you if you knew size and length of wire. Colder = less resitance. I would say if it reads anywhere close to the correct value it's good to go.

OP, sounds like you may be best served by getting a whole new harness. That spaggetti mess will drive you nuts. And may leave you stranded.