I have an 03 blaster not getting spark. We bought it not running. I checked the stator (source coil 233 ohms pickup 21 ohms) Tried cdi box on another quad worked fine. I've checked continuity of every single wire, switch, and connection. The TORS is bypassed(tried every combination). All grounds are good. I'm still not getting anything into or out of the ignition coil. Does anyone have any advice that might help? Really starting to get frustrated.
no spark 03 blaster
- Thread starter rodder_069
- Start date
disconnect the tors brain, its just under the hood. that was the answer to my spark issue on 2 blasters that i have worked on
Maybe^. Check out the other parts (ignition coil, boot, etc) of the igniton system by doing all applicable tests in manual starting on page 7-7.
www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
TORS-wise, on an 03 most people unplug the carb and jumper the wires going to the throttle switch. The important thing here is that the yell/blk out of the cdi be grounded. Jumpering the throttle switch does that.
Hmmm, bought it not running. Have you physically inspected the flywheel key? A loose center bolt can cause the key to shear, sometimes even to the point of allowing the flywheel to not spin, giving no spark.
Use your ohm meter on the blk/wht wire (kill switch and key switch) to make sure it isn't grounded.
Yea I've tried all combinations with the TORS wires from all unhooked one jumped, and the others unhooked all jumped, still no difference. Good idea on checking the black and black/white for continuity, i checked all wires in the harness separately but didn't think to check for crossing over, I'll try that today. this is my girlfriends bike and since i found me a banshee yesterday she is ready for hers to be ready to ride.
Well i checked the black to black/white continuity and there was none, just as it should be. So i rechecked everything. All checked good again so i decided to take a look at stator just for fun. Well when i got the flywheel off i checked all my resistances again at the coil terminals. The pickup checked right, middle specs still (21.2 ohms). But, the source coil shows open circuit, no continuity at all. Seems awful weird to me. I decided to hit ebay for a little shopping spree(stator kit, coil, and wiring harness) I think surely i can get it now. 
I guess we'll see in a few days when the parts get here.
I guess we'll see in a few days when the parts get here.Put new coils on stator, new ignition coil, and still no spark. Has anybody heard of how to set the air gap on the stator coils?
There shouldn't be anything to set. All the coils have single mounting holes with no adjustment. BTW, if you PM me your email, I will send you the 03+ supplement to the factory manual.
I just remembered, reading your source coil problem above, that there is a couple small differences in wiring of the ignition (extra stator wire). I wish I'd mentioned it sooner. Sorry. You are running out of possibilities though, I see you've already checked the cdi, and that is the last resort after eliminating the other possibilities.
I just remembered, reading your source coil problem above, that there is a couple small differences in wiring of the ignition (extra stator wire). I wish I'd mentioned it sooner. Sorry. You are running out of possibilities though, I see you've already checked the cdi, and that is the last resort after eliminating the other possibilities.
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Awk08 often suggests using a test light. I haven't tried it yet but at the very least, I would think it should show a flicker on the blk/red of the stator source coil when kicking. The 03+ uses an isolated ground for the source coil, the grn/wht. Try it with the grn/wht hooked up and also disconnected but grounded to the frame, just to be sure.
If it successfully goes through the cdi, it should cause a flicker on the test light when applied to the orange wire at the ign coil.
An electrical prob like this can be maddening but although it sounds like you are going about it carefully, it wouldn't hurt to check everything a second (or 6th) time. Good luck.
If it successfully goes through the cdi, it should cause a flicker on the test light when applied to the orange wire at the ign coil.
An electrical prob like this can be maddening but although it sounds like you are going about it carefully, it wouldn't hurt to check everything a second (or 6th) time. Good luck.
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thanks for the help. I was trying to check with a test light but no luck. I hooked up my multi-meter to see if the stator was responding to the flywheel rotation. It showed between 7 and 9 volts, so i checked at the ignition coil and it was also receiving the same voltages, i tried checking the spark again it is making a very weak spark. I understand that the air gap should be non adjustable but the screws that hold the coils on are a good deal smaller than the corresponding mounting holes, meaning in theory (to me anyway) that there is gonna be a difference in output depending on how far away/close the coil is to the flywheel. i think i will try to play with it this evening after work and try to get them as close as possible to see if anything. Any other ideas are still greatly appreciated!
Well, its been awhile since the last up date. I borrowed a flywheel from the local shop to try just for sh*ts and giggles. Well bolted it on without touching stator coil locations and was making close to 30 volts(dont remember exactly) ant making great spark. good news. only problem is it would rev slightly and just stutter( sounds just like a drag car on the 2 step) throttle position wouldn't change the rpms any it would change sound but wouldnt rev any higher. i held the throttle open for approx 45 seconds with it stuttering and started revving like it should. Then a few seconds later it went right back to stuttering. Any one have any ideas now?
Sounds like Yamaha's "better idea" again. You said you had removed/bypassed the TORS. How about the e-brake switch? An activated e-brake switch (on clutch perch) will do exactly what you are describing. Idles, but won't rev with the throttle. Yours might just be loose enough to be intermittent.
Just unplug the switch from the harness.
Just unplug the switch from the harness.
