New project
- Thread starter ikilledcasey
- Start date
I know. I'm trying to get this thing dialed in. The spindles will allow you to run hydro front brakes. I actually have brake lines to. It's not hard to find the hubs, calipers, and master cylinders. The blaster 03+ spindles however can be hard to find.
Finally got the motor apart main drive gear was put on backwards.. (i think thats what its called)
Christmas has all my blaster money tied up at the moment but am planning on ordering the new main bearings and seals and all the other little things I'm gonna need, Circlips, lock washers, gaskets etc. From KOR when i send him my cylinder to bore and crank to rebuild once i save up some more cash. Im looking at around another 450 bucks for everything i need.
I had recently purchased a crank and both engine halves from a guy on here and i believe its an OEM crank so ill be sending that one. Mine has a wiseco crank in it now. And from what I've read they're trash. Maybe throw it up on ebay for a few bucks and see if i get any bites. We'll see. heres a quick list of what I've got left and a few pics of the engine tear down..
Oh! and the little clutch ball has been welded to the shaft. ill have to replace both of them correct?
Shift arm is bent so need new one
Torque down rear end properly
swingarm bushings
crank rebuild
piston 125
bore
exhaust clamp out of heater hose?
exhaust gasket
dowel rod piece for back brake shorty cable
Hardware
crank bearings and seals
bottom end seal kit/ gasket kit
c clips
lock washers
pc seal grease
top end gasket set
head washers
figure out rejetting
temp gun
Stator cover
chain rollers
Chain guide
heat cycle and re tension bolts
break in motor properly
leak test!!!
The stock needle should be a 5J22 on the middle clip
10w30 transmission oil 650ml
Christmas has all my blaster money tied up at the moment but am planning on ordering the new main bearings and seals and all the other little things I'm gonna need, Circlips, lock washers, gaskets etc. From KOR when i send him my cylinder to bore and crank to rebuild once i save up some more cash. Im looking at around another 450 bucks for everything i need.
I had recently purchased a crank and both engine halves from a guy on here and i believe its an OEM crank so ill be sending that one. Mine has a wiseco crank in it now. And from what I've read they're trash. Maybe throw it up on ebay for a few bucks and see if i get any bites. We'll see. heres a quick list of what I've got left and a few pics of the engine tear down..
Oh! and the little clutch ball has been welded to the shaft. ill have to replace both of them correct?
Shift arm is bent so need new one
Torque down rear end properly
swingarm bushings
crank rebuild
piston 125
bore
exhaust clamp out of heater hose?
exhaust gasket
dowel rod piece for back brake shorty cable
Hardware
crank bearings and seals
bottom end seal kit/ gasket kit
c clips
lock washers
pc seal grease
top end gasket set
head washers
figure out rejetting
temp gun
Stator cover
chain rollers
Chain guide
heat cycle and re tension bolts
break in motor properly
leak test!!!
The stock needle should be a 5J22 on the middle clip
10w30 transmission oil 650ml
I have the PC seal grease, and yamabond 4. I also have a leak tester, and heat gun. Bring that thing over!
For sure! i told you as soon as i get everything i need I'm comin up! few more weeks and i should be there
and i hope that hammer was used for smashing beer cans ?
No prying was done here! i promise...Its just a rubber mallet, I use it as kind of an impact wrench situation. I don't have a second set of hands to hold the motor so ill tap the wrench to break the nut free.
I use rubber mallets. They are OK. The metal ones seem to be the home wreckers lol.
Rubber mallets and some light taps don't do any damage. I always throw a nut on the end of something so I don't hit the threads just in case. Buuut yeah, 10 years wrenching never an issue with a rubber mallot.
Rubber mallets and some light taps don't do any damage. I always throw a nut on the end of something so I don't hit the threads just in case. Buuut yeah, 10 years wrenching never an issue with a rubber mallot.
Well guys i was fortunate enough to come into a little bit of extra change in my pocket so i sent my engine off to KOR to be put together. Which was a very wise choice in my opinion. lol But its in his intensive care unit as we speak should be out of surgery in under two weeks.
He's rebuilding my crankshaft, new main bearings, New seals everywhere, rebuilding bottom end, whole top end including the bore, sandblasting and painting everything , had a cracked shift fork, and a bent shift shaft and a cracked right case that i completely overlooked but he hooked me up very well on it and i couldn't be more excited to get it back and finally ride.
Cool thing is that it has a bit of a port job on it that he said wasn't too bad but he's gonna go ahead and clean it up a little for me there so i am excited for that because i was thinking of spending the extra 150 bucks to have it done but i was spending enough already so i decided ill just wait for that but its already there!, not sure how much more power it gives but previous owner said it'd pick him up in all the gears so that sounds fun
But i do have a question...
What jetting should i have ?
no airbox lid
brand new uni filter
stock pipe with a pro circuit silencer
ported
At sea level in south florida
He's rebuilding my crankshaft, new main bearings, New seals everywhere, rebuilding bottom end, whole top end including the bore, sandblasting and painting everything , had a cracked shift fork, and a bent shift shaft and a cracked right case that i completely overlooked but he hooked me up very well on it and i couldn't be more excited to get it back and finally ride.
Cool thing is that it has a bit of a port job on it that he said wasn't too bad but he's gonna go ahead and clean it up a little for me there so i am excited for that because i was thinking of spending the extra 150 bucks to have it done but i was spending enough already so i decided ill just wait for that but its already there!, not sure how much more power it gives but previous owner said it'd pick him up in all the gears so that sounds fun
But i do have a question...
What jetting should i have ?
no airbox lid
brand new uni filter
stock pipe with a pro circuit silencer
ported
At sea level in south florida
Last edited:
http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_atv/yamaha_200_YFS200_blaster_1988-2006.htm
Thanks for the info, man... This will do? Just cop a few of these?
Thanks for the info, man... This will do? Just cop a few of these?
it is missing the 290 and 310. the kit with a 290 added plus shipping is gonna probably be 10 - 15 dollars more than just buying the 5 jets you should get.
and its gonna be premixed gas i didn't mention that above so its gonna be :
32:1 93
airbox lid removed
New uni filter
stock exhaust for now , i do have a pro circuit spark arrester that connects to the stock header but idk if ill use it
ported
at sea level
in south florida
still the 250-290? and start bigger so it'll be richer and less chance of frying my top end on a plug chop?
and on jetsRus.com they have the option of genuine mikuni man jets for 6.39 each or oem equivalent mikuni main jets for 3.19 a piece
i know you get what you pay for but is there any difference?
Sorry to keep the same question going just I've put a lot of money and time into resurrecting this thing and i want everything to be right so i don't go blowin it up. Never had a toy like this of my own before and id like it to last me a good while
32:1 93
airbox lid removed
New uni filter
stock exhaust for now , i do have a pro circuit spark arrester that connects to the stock header but idk if ill use it
ported
at sea level
in south florida
still the 250-290? and start bigger so it'll be richer and less chance of frying my top end on a plug chop?
and on jetsRus.com they have the option of genuine mikuni man jets for 6.39 each or oem equivalent mikuni main jets for 3.19 a piece
i know you get what you pay for but is there any difference?
Sorry to keep the same question going just I've put a lot of money and time into resurrecting this thing and i want everything to be right so i don't go blowin it up. Never had a toy like this of my own before and id like it to last me a good while
Yes I highly recommend you use genuine mikuni. Not all jets are equal.
Some of the "equivalent are not bored exact and some even have bore offset.
For your setup as it sits I would start at 290 and chop down. yes that will keep it richer and not blow her up. If you plan on getting an aftermarket exhaust later it might not be a bad idea to grab a 300 and 310 now. save shipping costs later.
Some of the "equivalent are not bored exact and some even have bore offset.
For your setup as it sits I would start at 290 and chop down. yes that will keep it richer and not blow her up. If you plan on getting an aftermarket exhaust later it might not be a bad idea to grab a 300 and 310 now. save shipping costs later.
Got the call yesterday from ken that my engine is finished! Should have been shipped yesterday and will get here sometime either friday or monday. will definitely post up some pics of that when it arrives,
It got an entire overhaul.
rebuilt the crankshaft with new pro-x rod,
almost all the bearings were replaced,
the right side case was cracked,
he said my shift rods were mushroomed at the tip,
clutch actuator was crap,
bored and honed with wiseco 67.5 piston i believe he said,
Also he told me spent a few hours cleaning up the port job the PO had on there
I know theres more i just can't think of it right now
as you can see in the first post it was pretty ugly, and the previous owner had no idea what he was doing with this thing, And just removed all kinds of sh*t, like rear brakes, and all chain sliders and rollers (why the hell would you do that?) I've almost got all the missing parts just waiting for a few small things and i should be ready for heat cycles!!!
That is if the electrical system is all in working order when i put it back together.
also i took off the carb bowl to put the 290 jet in and realized the little plastic splash guard piece isn't there, is that going to be a problem? i figured mikuni put that in there for a reason right?
It got an entire overhaul.
rebuilt the crankshaft with new pro-x rod,
almost all the bearings were replaced,
the right side case was cracked,
he said my shift rods were mushroomed at the tip,
clutch actuator was crap,
bored and honed with wiseco 67.5 piston i believe he said,
Also he told me spent a few hours cleaning up the port job the PO had on there
I know theres more i just can't think of it right now
as you can see in the first post it was pretty ugly, and the previous owner had no idea what he was doing with this thing, And just removed all kinds of sh*t, like rear brakes, and all chain sliders and rollers (why the hell would you do that?) I've almost got all the missing parts just waiting for a few small things and i should be ready for heat cycles!!!
That is if the electrical system is all in working order when i put it back together.
also i took off the carb bowl to put the 290 jet in and realized the little plastic splash guard piece isn't there, is that going to be a problem? i figured mikuni put that in there for a reason right?
The plastic slosh baffle is there to keep fuel in the correct place.
Without the baffle turbulence created within the float bowl, when riding rough terrain could see the main jet exposed to air and may create a lean mix.
It also assist to keep fuel being dumped out of the drain.
Without the baffle turbulence created within the float bowl, when riding rough terrain could see the main jet exposed to air and may create a lean mix.
It also assist to keep fuel being dumped out of the drain.
thank you sir, gonna order that and the washer that is supposed to go under the main yet as well because that is also missing. damn thing is 12 dollars for that tiny little piece
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