new fmf pipes and main jet:(

csrt4 said:
yes tors is still connected.. i will be doing the removal tomarrow..
i replaced every cable on this blaster when i first bought it, so yes new throttle cable with no hang ups... in that vid i actually pulled the choke to get the revs to lower back down to idle... i can also get them back down by letting the clutch out and putting a load on it...
i sprayed the inake and surronding area with carb cleaner so there isnt an air leak anywhere around there... hope its not crank seals
Click to expand...

its either the tors or an air leak. just unplug the tors brain under the hood and see what effect that has. oh, and the carb cleans a good idea but, these things leak EVERYWHERE. ur right, it may be a crappy crank seal. there not that bad to do. bout 20 mins with proper tools.
 
Well first thing I did today was an airleak test.. I found a leak at the reed cage to intake boot, and reed cage to cylinder.. so I used red high temp rtv and sealed each side of the gasket and reed cage to intake boot.. finger tight then let dry for an hour, then torqued to 62 in/lbs.
I didn't leak test after that but I now have a normal idle and no more hang ups when reving .. I also finally got my air screw tuned in for a fast idle.. my air screw is ¾ out... seems a bit low to me..

But all in all its running descent .. I still need to do some plug chops to get the right main jet in there..
Thanks guys I really appreciate the help, and im glad this happened as it gave me some basic knowledge of tuning the carb.. I can't thank you guys enough ...
 
csrt4 said:
Well first thing I did today was an airleak test.. I found a leak at the reed cage to intake boot, and reed cage to cylinder.. so I used red high temp rtv and sealed each side of the gasket and reed cage to intake boot.. finger tight then let dry for an hour, then torqued to 62 in/lbs.
I didn't leak test after that but I now have a normal idle and no more hang ups when reving .. I also finally got my air screw tuned in for a fast idle.. my air screw is ¾ out... seems a bit low to me..

But all in all its running descent .. I still need to do some plug chops to get the right main jet in there..
Thanks guys I really appreciate the help, and im glad this happened as it gave me some basic knowledge of tuning the carb.. I can't thank you guys enough ...
Click to expand...
3/4 out, that sounds off. starting point should be 1 1/2 turns out. what size pilot??
 
Yea I was thinking that... I had to end the day and ride my cbr home in the rain before it got dark...so I didn't do another leak test...I will be doing it in the morning.. what sucks is if any thing else is leaking, it would have to be either a head, base gasket or crank seal...X(
 
One thing I haven't checked yet is the float height.. would that cause the pilot to be off??
 
Well last week I did another leak test, and had air leaking out of the stator side cover which lead me to believe crank seal was leaking... I ordered new cometic crank seals, new stator and clutch cover gaskets, and a flywheel puller... received them on Saturday and got started... so I took the stator cover off and sure enough there was oil dripping out of the stator side, got the flywheel off and sure enough the crank seal was in 3 pcs... after putting that side back together with a new crank seal, I decided to fire it up and take it for a ride... it is like a brand new blaster... mid throttle power has returned, and no more nothing then wham, power band @ wot.... tomarrow I am doing the clutch side just to finish off the project... then another leak test just to make sure.... then try to tune in the carb one more time, followed by some plug chops....

Just wanted to thank everyone for there help it got me where I needed to be, understanding a 2stroke and its carb..
 
csrt4 said:
then another leak test just to make sure.... then try to tune in the carb one more time, followed by some plug chops....

Just wanted to thank everyone for there help it got me where I needed to be, understanding a 2stroke and its carb..
Click to expand...

Atta Boy! .
 
I just took off the oil pump, put it all back together and now it wont idle unless the air screw is turned in all the way. The minute I back it out it high revs and I have to turn it off. Also, I dont think my carb has an idle screw... i beleive there is a spot for one on the right side. I normally deal with motorcycles and would assume this would be the same. I did buy it from a kid, so anything is possible. Any suggestions?
 
If you have done an oil pump delete, have you plugged the oil unjection nipple on the carb?

What ratio premix did you mix?
 
32:1... it runs fine with the screw all the way in, but runs much better with the air lid off. 240 main jet.
 
Sounds like you have an airleak... I would know as I fixed many of them.. make sure the line going from case cover to carb that you removed has been capped on the carb side.. I used a vacuum cap and a baby ziptie...
 
No, all i did to it is put new stator cover and clutch cover gasket, cleaned the carb and put 240 main jet.
 
I sprayed starting fluid all over to make sure there was no leaks and no change in idle. I plugged it with a tight fitting rubber plug.
 
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