You are gonna need at least a #250 main with the DG, with the airbox lid off, maybee a #260.
new fmf pipes and main jet:(
- Thread starter csrt4
- Start date
You are gonna need at least a #250 main with the DG, with the airbox lid off, maybee a #260.
You may need to do a leak ndown test.
Try adjusting the idle.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Try adjusting the idle.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
I did this before I messed with the carb... this is why i took it apart. Ran ok before i took the oil pump off. There was hardly any response... like a kids four wheeler, so i decided to remove the pump hoping it would make it better. It did but there is no idle adjustment.
TORS removal is recommended but not essential.
There are many problems related to the TORS, most folk remove it to save problems occuring.
There are many problems related to the TORS, most folk remove it to save problems occuring.
I would be fitting at least a #250 main, for the DG.
What you should be doing to confirm the jet is correct is as follows......
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch of the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
I am able to post heaps more info, but I would sugguest that you use the great search function, it has all the info you need.
What you should be doing to confirm the jet is correct is as follows......
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch of the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
I am able to post heaps more info, but I would sugguest that you use the great search function, it has all the info you need.
OK, I just put a 260 main jet in and followed the tuning specs on this thread. If i back it out the 1 1/2 turns, I can not adjust the idle without it either high reving or almost stalling and sputtering. If i try and adjust the idle to were it sounds ok, the minute I rev it high it stays up on a high rev and i have to kill the motor. So, I kept turning in the air screw til 3/4 out and now Idels good... the best it has so far and rides good also. So by the sound of it I still dont have a tuned carb, maybe still the wrong jet size?
