New Engine Build, No Smoke and Plugs Not Wet

[EZRider76]

Castor oil is "BENOL" in Klotz

:-[ OOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!! Learn something new every day...

Been using castor since 1973. Put a bazzillion hours on my Elsinore, was only halfway to service limit when I tore it apart. Unfortunatly they don't sell Castrol R30 in the U.S. So it's Klotz Benol for me.

Yeah, I guess I'm sold on it, and my son is too I:I. LOVE the smell I:I B)

If you've been using it 3 years longer than I've been breathing, I could be sold on it. I guess i will have to look into that.

 

[Larry's Shee]

JMHO, your results may, and will vary

The Elsi was factory recomended @ 20:1, we run the Blasturd and Banshee @ 28:1 I:I

Reguardless, I still love the smell I:I

 

[EZRider76]

Can't hurt to try it....shouldn't effect my jetting that I can't quite seem to narrow down yet.

 

[wwholden]

I am running the 33, and my jetting is 48pilot, 150 main, CEL needle middle (third) clip position, She screams! Plug chop confirms good, actually I could drop to 148 main but I like it a hair on the richer side! However I am running the toomey, and I know the right bends (at least my power pros) like a richer main. I:I

Thanks slick! I experiemnted with the jets yesterday. It finally started running right and not bogging out when I dropped all the way down to a 140 mian jet. Still running the 60 pilot, havent messed with it yet. Seems to like it at 1 1/2 turns out as it should. Just seems like a huge pilot for a 2" PVC clamp on K&N setup to me. It does start first kick tho without any choke. Anyway I think the 140 just sounds way too small. Doesnt it to you? My main should be larger than yours since Im running a right hand bend. I belive it to be a F7 btw. Just doesnt make since why it doesnt start clearing up until I went all the way down to a 145 then it still sputtered a bit. 140 is the biggest main I can run without it sputtering. I did start smoking tho. It smokes as a two stroke engine should. Still cant firgure out why the small main tho. Cant do a plug chop till I finish this tank of break in fuel.

 

[Racer51]

Not sure if Amsoil is ideal for break in. Being a syn oil probably wouldn't smoke much anyhow.

Amsoil is supposed to be low carbon/smoke oil but just as effective as everybody else.

Been using castor since 1973. Put a bazzillion hours on my Elsinore, was only halfway to service limit when I tore it apart. Unfortunatly they don't sell Castrol R30 in the U.S. So it's Klotz Benol for me.

Yeah, I guess I'm sold on it, and my son is too I:I. LOVE the smell I:I B)

smells like blue berries right

I wouldn't use synthetic to break in a fresh top end. It lubricates too well which may not allow your rings to seat properly.

I dont know anything about that as oil is just oil when it comes to pre-mixes

Just saw last post thats great Also would like to say that yes I have used Castor 927 And I do love it but the reason is because it's a lot less expencive it's like $16 a bottle when amsoil is $10 a bottle but If I come into a wind fall and see a decent deal on some I might convert oils again.(shrug)

 

[wwholden]

Somethings up with this build. Before engine was ever ran I did a comp test and got 165 psi. Now after three heat cycles and less than a hour of being easy on it for the break in and now im getting 130 psi!!! Thought it was suppose to go up? Got a bad feeling that the jetting is way off. But it just doesn't run good with any main bigger than a 140?

 

[Rich]

I think slickerthanyou has some sound advice with looking into the needle size.It should be smoking and it should have a wet plug there is oil in it.If you cant verify by just looking at the plug try looking down into the ceramic part of the plug.(plug chop)It should not be white but chocolate brown.Sounds like your running lean somehow.And I agree you should not use synthetic oil for break in as it will lube it to well and rings will not seat to the cylindar wall.If its properly breaking in you will also notice metal flakes when your chopping the plug or just looking down the electrode with flash light if you can.Do you have a temp meeter.In any case by all meens do not let it overheat.But then again my advice is only worth no more than if a grain of sand lol.But I think slickerthanyou can help you as he has the same carb and the needles that came with them had issues when running them on a blaster.Oooops sorry I had to edit not to sure about the pe carbs?

 

[Awk08]

you do know that extremely large pilot is still flowing during all jetting ranges, and could be the cause for your lean main...the pilot is still flowing too much richening the needle and main circuts

at what airscrew setting is it idleing the highest ???
or did you just go with the 1.5 turns out as best running ?
you must go 1/2 turns, wait 15-20 seconds between, for it to "catch up" until you find the turns out it idles the highest,
i'm guessing thats gonna be over the 2-1/2 turns out with that pilot,
1/2 turn out or less for highest idle = larger pilot
over 2-1/2 turns out = smaller pilot
that 60 is too large/rich IMO
try a 45/48/50 pilot
after finding the right pilot, redo the needle and main

 

[Blaaster]

Here is a diag showing change over points.

 

[Blaaster]

Somethings up with this build. Before engine was ever ran I did a comp test and got 165 psi. Now after three heat cycles and less than a hour of being easy on it for the break in and now im getting 130 psi!!! Thought it was suppose to go up? Got a bad feeling that the jetting is way off. But it just doesn't run good with any main bigger than a 140?

It is not unusual for a fresh rebuild to return a higher than expected compression reading..

It is due to the abundance of assembly oil coating the piston and rings which can cause less gas blow by.

Although the 130psi seems low, it may increase when the full break in is achieved.