Need Help Bleeding Brakes!!!

[specialized7]

Well i got a GSXR caliper and a r1 master off a guy on here.
got the caliper all mounted up, welded a extension onto my pedal. and mounted the master.
started bleeding and cant for the life of me get any pressure in the lines.
had my dad help we tried a few techniques but he seems to think the master cylinder i got off here is junk.
i dont think the master is junk it looks brandnew but you never know.
anyone got any tips on bleeding a setup like this? is it different because theres 2 pistons?
also should i squeeze the pistons in all the way?
any help would be great. Thanks!

 

[brandoz28]

did you bench bleed the master? what techniques did you use? did you try to just gravity bleed them?

 

[specialized7]

whats bench bleed?
all i did was bolt everything up, top up the master then started pushing on the brake. i opened the bleeder valve and pumped the brakes until the fluid came out, did the same to the other bleeder on the caliper but it seems like theres no pressure

 

[brandoz28]

are you letting the pedal return while the bleeder is open? if so you are sucking air into the lines, the bleeder needs to be closed every time you release the pressure on the master

 

[specialized7]

yes i hold it all the way down after pumping it a few times then tighten the bleeder screw.
im wondering if i should do both bleeders at once or what?

 

[brandoz28]

you could try it if you haven't yet. it's odd that there are 2 bleeders. i've never dealt with that

 

[blasterfreek30]

or just fill the ressi and open both bleeders and let it bleed any air outta the lines

 

[Awk08]

i've built over 30 of these set-ups, and they suck to bleed,
this is a common problem with these dual piston calipers, but i have it figured out
here ya go.....
you "must" keep the lid off the rezzie while doing this, and never let it run dry, keep adding fluid as needed or it will suck air in.
get the caliper off the bike and up in the air above the master, so any air in the line will travel to the caliper
push the pistons in far enuf that the open end of a 14mm wrench will fit between the pads and keep that in there while doing this or the pistons will come out too far and not fit on your disc, then they're a biotch to squeeze in,
do one bleeder at a time starting with the one away from the line, have them facing upwards too while bleeding so any air trapped in the caliper will flow up and out
pump the pedal a few times and hold it down, then crack the bleeder, re-tighten, repeat untill just fluid comes out, you will get air for the first few times then a mixture of air and fluid, ya gotta keep doing it till only fluid is coming out, then do the other side the same way, and as stated above...never release the pedal until the bleeder is closed tight
of all the systems i've built and sold i have never got a bad caliper or master, that doesnt mean you didnt, just stated the odds are it just needs bled correctly
print this out and take to the garage with ya so you can follow it to a "t" works everytime for me and my customers
pm me if ya have any other troubles, but follow these instructions and you'll be ridin very shortly!!!!

 

[DUALSTROKE]

i've built over 30 of these set-ups, and they suck to bleed,
this is a common problem with these dual piston calipers, but i have it figured out
here ya go.....
you "must" keep the lid off the rezzie while doing this, and never let it run dry, keep adding fluid as needed or it will suck air in.
get the caliper off the bike and up in the air above the master, so any air in the line will travel to the caliper
push the pistons in far enuf that the open end of a 14mm wrench will fit between the pads and keep that in there while doing this or the pistons will come out too far and not fit on your disc, then they're a biotch to squeeze in,
do one bleeder at a time starting with the one away from the line, have them facing upwards too while bleeding so any air trapped in the caliper will flow up and out
pump the pedal a few times and hold it down, then crack the bleeder, re-tighten, repeat untill just fluid comes out, you will get air for the first few times then a mixture of air and fluid, ya gotta keep doing it till only fluid is coming out, then do the other side the same way, and as stated above...never release the pedal until the bleeder is closed tight
of all the systems i've built and sold i have never got a bad caliper or master, that doesnt mean you didnt, just stated the odds are it just needs bled correctly
print this out and take to the garage with ya so you can follow it to a "t" works everytime for me and my customers
pm me if ya have any other troubles, but follow these instructions and you'll be ridin very shortly!!!!

There you go from the man himself.Another thing I do when manual bleeding is take the caliper off and rest it on the ground and just put something inbetween the pads to help out.

 

[Awk08]

of all these i have built i haven't had any luck with gravity bleeding, must have sumthin to do with the dual pistons, like they get an airlock in them??? but on a few i have had to crack the banjo bolts at the master and the caliper to bleed the lines and master first on a few stubborn ones, the same tecnique applies to this also - always hold the pedal down until everything is tightened back up

i also bench bleed the caliper before assembly, (on set-ups that i buy the caliper and master seperately)
sit it on the bench, crack the bottom bleeder and pour fluid into it where the line connects, close the bleeder when fluid starts coming out, then finish filling it, and re-connect the line

 

[slickerthanyou]

i've built over 30 of these set-ups, and they suck to bleed,
this is a common problem with these dual piston calipers, but i have it figured out
here ya go.....
you "must" keep the lid off the rezzie while doing this, and never let it run dry, keep adding fluid as needed or it will suck air in.
get the caliper off the bike and up in the air above the master, so any air in the line will travel to the caliper
push the pistons in far enuf that the open end of a 14mm wrench will fit between the pads and keep that in there while doing this or the pistons will come out too far and not fit on your disc, then they're a biotch to squeeze in,
do one bleeder at a time starting with the one away from the line, have them facing upwards too while bleeding so any air trapped in the caliper will flow up and out
pump the pedal a few times and hold it down, then crack the bleeder, re-tighten, repeat untill just fluid comes out, you will get air for the first few times then a mixture of air and fluid, ya gotta keep doing it till only fluid is coming out, then do the other side the same way, and as stated above...never release the pedal until the bleeder is closed tight
of all the systems i've built and sold i have never got a bad caliper or master, that doesnt mean you didnt, just stated the odds are it just needs bled correctly
print this out and take to the garage with ya so you can follow it to a "t" works everytime for me and my customers
pm me if ya have any other troubles, but follow these instructions and you'll be ridin very shortly!!!!

This is exactly what i did to my setup works great!

 

[specialized7]

Well thanks guys im going to print awks write up out and give it a try ill report back and let you all know how it works

 

[specialized7]

well finally got out to my dads today and worked on the brakes.
Got them working sort of, followed awks instructions.
i can lock them up on gravel but not on grass its weird they are working but not as good as i would like.
i tried bleeding then a few times and it got a little better but still not what i expected.
any ideas

 

[slickerthanyou]

If they are not lockin up you still have air in them. It took me about 3 reservoirs full of fluid before I got it all out, Now that biotch will skid anywhere. if ya don't have the bleeders facing up when ya bleed them, you will never get all the air out and it will be spongy. make sure you also have the caliper lower than the reservoir and master.

 

[specialized7]

yep i do, ill give that a try ill zip tie it to the grab bar and see where that takes me

 

[Awk08]

if its working so-so, then it prolly has air in one side of the caliper, ones working and one isnt
i like to bleed mine with the calipers above the master, air bubbles float in the fluid so they will float up when you have the caliper higher, also how do the pads look, i've been putting new pads in my kits, if they are below half pad they tend to not work as good, find them on ebay from "atvbrakesandmore" out of ohio for $17 shipped
one other thing..... do you have the pedal pushing the rod perfectly straight up into the master??? if not it will not push in the whole way and not push enuf fluid to completely push both pistons