My 1st Post

ezkill

New Member
Feb 17, 2013
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Hey guys. I just bought a 2001 blaster yesterday. Its bone stock and runs great. I just gave it a oil change, used Royal Purple Max ATF. Anyone have any experience with that stuff? I went to inspect the air filter and looked like its probably the original filter from 2001:o. It was horrible. I replaced it with a k&N and the bike would not run. I did a little research and read that with this particular filter i wouldnt need to change the jetting. Any ideas why the bike didnt like the K&N. I hope UNI works better for me, being that its more similar to the stock one. Any suggestions anyone could give me I would appreciate.
 
No mods at all. It ran horrible with air box lid on. Took air box lid off and it ran better, but still not good. I'm hoping the local dealer has a UNI I can swoop up tomorrow. Do UNIs come pre oiled?
 
Here is my experience with air filters on the Yamaha Blaster...

I experimented with MANY different ones...

#1 K&N
#2 No Toil
#3 Stock
#4 UNI FILTER

Uni Filter is my favorite with the stock air filter second. Any oiled foam is the best in my opinion (except for the notoil).

Please read on as I explain...

I'll pass on the K&N. The reason is because that little washer they give you that prevents the steel tube of the cover from sinking into the plastic,can get pulled out of the plastic threaded base when fitting the air filter,and can go un-noticed. This happened to my buddys blaster. That little washer made it through the carb,through the reeds,down into the crank case,and was able to bounce up into EVERY (all 4) tranfer ports and kiss the rings (in all four places) and lock them into the grooves. Instant "no compression". I was able to save the cylinder. Amazing what a "soft" 2 cent washer can do. Thank god it wasn't a "grade 8" washer. This probably wouldn't have happened if the washer was glued into place. In my opinion,they don't filter the dirt as well,so I would recommend an "outer wears" pre filter if your going to use a K&N filter. The draw back to this whole set up is the cost of the filter,and outer wears pre-filter. Your talking around $60 + In my opinion that ridiculous. I can get three (3) INCREDIBLE
Uni-filters for that!

I thought the Notoil filter was a good concept untill I noticed that it was choking off the air do to its thick filtering oil. I had to go down 3 to 4 jet sizes to compensate for the loss in air flow. I lost power because of this stupid air filter.Thats ridiculous. I thought that maybe I put too much of they're oil (actually a parafin mix) on the filter,so I tried they're "spray",but this also did not fix the problem,So I tried they're "Non-alcohol" based spray and liquid,and still was in the same boat. No thanks Never again. Neat concept,but it didn't work for me. I tried more than half a dozen times to make it work. ..Same results. I shouldn't have to go down on my main jet after changing the air filter. Go figure.

As for the stock filter...WORKS GREAT! It has that fine "Hair" on the outside to help catch the fine stuff. Yamaha used this style for a reason. IT WORKS! and IT BREATHS WELL! The reasons I like the Uni filter over the stock one,is because its "RED",and I can see how dirty it is,...its a "Two stage" filter ...it has an "inny" and a "outy" layer,and the glued seams hold up to every solvent I've thrown at it,even though most of the time I use the "Uni Filter" cleaner.

Hope this helps you out. Notice I didn't just say "Uni Filter" as my answer? Those kind of answers SUCK! I just explain "Why".
I hope this helps you out in your decision making.
 
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What?? When I pull the filter off it runs fine again. With the old dirty stock filter it runs fine. Im pretty sure it just doesnt like that type of filter for reason.
 
Thank you Joeak47 that was a big help. Blasterdemon why would you say i need to build/buy a leak down tester?
 
Before I put on the new air filter it ran great. Exhaust was normal and power was excellent. It was a pre-oiled filter so im thinking it may have just been over oiled. I put the stock filter back on and the exhaust returns to normal and the power is excellent.
 
I'm not a brain surgon, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night!! Obviously over oiled filter. I was actually re-reading first post for clues and read more of your replies. That's some sticky oil they use, don't know if it will pull the excess off. Are you aware that you will have to re-jet with different filter?

Any time you change the amount of air into or out of the engine you have to change jetting accordingly.
 
i'm going with the over oiled filter answer too, possibly getting sucked in creating the excess smoke
 
who knows why but youll have a few filters when you need em. i dont use lids for anything i ride. might be that the main is to small for the air flow your getting now. i'd rejet to a 260,270 main and air leak test it. wait is your bike pre mix or injected cause id worry about how much oil/fuel your pre mixing with the injector still hooked up (a possable reaso for your excessive smoking. also try your idle screw with your new choice of filter till you get a healthier throttle responce
 
Thank you Joeak47 that was a big help. Blasterdemon why would you say i need to build/buy a leak down tester?

well i dident leak test my bike and 3 weeks later after a rebuild with a new wise co this happend
testscan794.jpg

testscan792.jpg

testscan869.jpg

heres a link to build one http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-leak-tester-51102/